Zeroing Noxpix Rico 2

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Hello, I have a Nocpix Rico 2H50R and when zeroing at 100 yards the minimum adjustment is .43. I am either a little low or a little high but never dead on. I had this scope on a 204 last year and I must have been lucky enough to be dead on.
Is there a way to get it more fine tuned when sighting in. It has the LRF so that is why I want it to be dead on. If it wasn't for the LRF I would just go 1" high at 100 yards.
 
Hello, I have a Nocpix Rico 2H50R and when zeroing at 100 yards the minimum adjustment is .43. I am either a little low or a little high but never dead on. I had this scope on a 204 last year and I must have been lucky enough to be dead on.
Is there a way to get it more fine tuned when sighting in. It has the LRF so that is why I want it to be dead on. If it wasn't for the LRF I would just go 1" high at 100 yards.
Not familiar with Nocpix but, some scopes suggest your go to highest magnification after first zero and shoot again to fine tune the scope. Works on my ATN.
 
Hello, I have a Nocpix Rico 2H50R and when zeroing at 100 yards the minimum adjustment is .43. I am either a little low or a little high but never dead on. I had this scope on a 204 last year and I must have been lucky enough to be dead on.
Is there a way to get it more fine tuned when sighting in. It has the LRF so that is why I want it to be dead on. If it wasn't for the LRF I would just go 1" high at 100 yards.
can you change your "zero" distance in your Rico ballistic calculator to 125yds or whatever it works out to?

I play with a Strelok ballistic calculator by entering different "zero" data, and then looking at the spread sheet in "inches" to see how high it's shooting a 100yds.
 
can you change your "zero" distance in your Rico ballistic calculator to 125yds or whatever it works out to?
I play with a Strelok ballistic calculator by entering different "zero" data, and then looking at the spread sheet in "inches" to see how high it's shooting a 100yds.
That's what I would do.

Measure how high you are at 100, then play with an online ballistic calculator to see where that measurement jives in your chart at 100, then set your Rico to the zero shown in your drops.

I would also shoot at that new zero to confirm.

Personally, I zero everything at 200. I'll get close at 100, test & confirm @ 200.
 
Take this with a grain of salt as I am not a "gun guy" but unless you are shooting past 300 the ballistics on most calibers won't change enough to matter on the coyote kill zone if you start out .43" off at 100. AND as Alf said, get as close to a 200 zero as possible and you probably won't be more than +/-2" to about 250 and around 5-6" low at 300 with no need for LRF or its calc.. Just my opinion and I hunt in West PA so don't get many 300 opportunities.
 
The last rifle I had the scope on I ended playing with BC and speed at 350 yds to get it decent at longer range. I didn't know if there was a way to get a finer adjust than just .43 on the scope.

We are able to shoot over 300 yards in many places around here.
 
So the scope & adjustments are SFP, which would explain the double at 200.

I would follow what I replied in my #4 post.

With the LRF & interactive reticle, it's nice to be as perfect as you can get it.

Holler if you need help with a drop chart.
 
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