Reloading for an AR

I use lee dies, including the factory crimp on all semi auto loads.
I have never "bumped" the shoulder back on any loads, and have not had issues.
 
When I refer to "bumping the shoulder", it is not an extra step in the process, just means setting sizing die to restore case back to spec. I kept an extra sizing die for 30-06 and .308 set to push shoulder back an extra .001 or so for my gas guns. Didn't shoot a .223 bolt gun, so die was set for the AR.
 
If you set up most FL sizing die by the factory instructions with the same brand shell holder you will be sizing to SAAMI headspace tolerance. With Redding if you read carefully, you are sizing to minimum SAAMI length. Which for most factory chambers is not needed. You want to set sizing die using fully formed LUBED brass. Using several cases that chamber with some extra bolt closing effort(bolt action). Than for hunting rounds you screw the die towards the shell holder in small increments(1/16 or less) of a turn of the die until the sized lube FREE brass chamber properly. I strip the bolt(bolt guns) to test brass to chamber fit. Hunting ammo, the stripped bolt must fall closed by itself, no additional effort.
AR's are different because chambering to set up sizing die can result in the brass shoulder moving(sizing down ) from the spring pressure of the action closing. The easy route to properly sizing AR brass is an ammo checking tool, like the Lyman ammo checkers. You can verify brass is sized to SAAMI spec and check finished ammo, so no surprise hard to chamber(forward assist needed to go into battery) and no mortor extraction to remove a stuck live round( not safe).
 
spotstalkshoot said:
AR's are different because chambering to set up sizing die can result in the brass shoulder moving(sizing down ) from the spring pressure of the action closing.
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Tru dat!
I experienced an interesting example of "chamber sizing" with a super light load suggested by a Sierra tech for 30-06.
While chatting ballistics with him I bragged on the Sierra 190 gr Match Kings for longer range match shooting,
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and he asked if I ever shot100 yard reduced matches. I did and he suggested a very reduced load of Unique behind that bullet, claiming outstanding short range groups. Of course I had to give it a try, and sure enough......groups were outstanding......as long as there were no wind shifts. You wouldn't believe what a wind switch can do to that lumbering 190 in the extended amount of time it takes to travel 100 yards at a snail's pace. :ROFLMAO:
Back to the epiphany of chamber sizing. During my trials w/this load, I learned the just the repeated force of the Mod. 70 firing pin striking the loaded round drives the cartridge forward w/sufficient force to push the shoulder back enough to increase headspace and the reduced load does not stretch brass back to chamber length, requiring either fire forming or replacing brass after only a few cycles.
That reduced loading was a tack driver, but didn't work well in our S. TX winds.
 
spotstalkshoot said:
If you set up most FL sizing die by the factory instructions with the same brand shell holder you will be sizing to SAAMI headspace tolerance. With Redding if you read carefully, you are sizing to minimum SAAMI length. Which for most factory chambers is not needed. You want to set sizing die using fully formed LUBED brass. Using several cases that chamber with some extra bolt closing effort(bolt action). Than for hunting rounds you screw the die towards the shell holder in small increments(1/16 or less) of a turn of the die until the sized lube FREE brass chamber properly. I strip the bolt(bolt guns) to test brass to chamber fit. Hunting ammo, the stripped bolt must fall closed by itself, no additional effort.
AR's are different because chambering to set up sizing die can result in the brass shoulder moving(sizing down ) from the spring pressure of the action closing. The easy route to properly sizing AR brass is an ammo checking tool, like the Lyman ammo checkers. You can verify brass is sized to SAAMI spec and check finished ammo, so no surprise hard to chamber(forward assist needed to go into battery) and no mortor extraction to remove a stuck live round( not safe).
Click to expand...
I'm liking the idea of the "ammo checkers"...(y)(y)
 
it was a rainy day yesterday, a good day to start some load development for the AR-204r.
I loaded up the 1st of the series with Speer 39gr TNT and 26.7 grs. of IMR 8208 XBR, never used this powder but have read great reviews. I want to make sure I've corrected my previous issues before loading the 2nd series of the test.
Should be an interesting day
 
Hunter55 said:
I'm liking the idea of the "ammo checkers"...(y)(y)
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if youre liking that... make sure you look at the sheridan slotted ammo gauges.

not only do they function as a yes/no gauge, but with the slot cut... you can see where the problem lies most of the time. ie: is the shoulder not touching because the base is hanging up too big, etc.

sheridanengineering.com

Home

Slotted and non-slotted Ammunition Gauges
sheridanengineering.com

they're fantastic, i have one for nearly ever caliber i reload. got my first years ago when trying to diag an issue with my 300blk.
 
Hunter55 said:
I've reloaded for MANY years and ALL my reloading has been for pistols and bolt guns.
So I'm thinking of reloading for an AR-204r. From what I've read a taper crimp is the way to go, which leads to the question of just getting a new set of dies with a taper crimp? Or buying a Lee taper crimp?
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if youre gonna crimp - always do so on a seperate step than the seating die. weather that be a taper crimp or a lee factory crimp... no matter.

i just dont like roll crimping with the seating die. too easy to get a misadjustment and crimp too early and now you have inconsistent seating issues. set your seating die up to "no crimp" settings and just seat the bullet with it.

Hunter55 said:
Not sure IF the Lee taper crimp will fit in my press "with the LNL bushing"?
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absolutely. i run them in multiple calibers with the lnl quick change bushing. no issues. added perk once you get them set you dont have to mess around re-adjusting every time you reinstall them. that way your crimp is going to be more consistent from batch to batch.

Hunter55 said:
The next question would be the "type of small rifle primers"?
My reloading setup is a Hornady LNL progressive and I have 2 presses. One setup for 9mm and the other for reloading bottleneck rifle.
Your input is appreciated!!!!
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personally ive come to be a big fan of the rem 7½. however in most of the testing ive done they can almost be universally switched out for cci 450's as well. the difference in sd/es with the same loads has been so negligable for me that i basically rack it up to "within margin of error". both give good hot ignition, and seasonal consistency for me.

get whichever is more available to you at the best price, and stack them deep :)

hth
 
Plant.One said:
if youre gonna crimp - always do so on a seperate step than the seating die. weather that be a taper crimp or a lee factory crimp... no matter.

i just dont like roll crimping with the seating die. too easy to get a misadjustment and crimp too early and now you have inconsistent seating issues. set your seating die up to "no crimp" settings and just seat the bullet with it.


absolutely. i run them in multiple calibers with the lnl quick change bushing. no issues. added perk once you get them set you dont have to mess around re-adjusting every time you reinstall them. that way your crimp is going to be more consistent from batch to batch.



personally ive come to be a big fan of the rem 7½. however in most of the testing ive done they can almost be universally switched out for cci 450's as well. the difference in sd/es with the same loads has been so negligable for me that i basically rack it up to "within margin of error". both give good hot ignition, and seasonal consistency for me.

get whichever is more available to you at the best price, and stack them deep :)

hth
Click to expand...
thanks for weighing in!
 
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