Barrel Cooling

I have a new Varmint Rifle and it has had about 30 rounds through it. Im not getting the accuracy out of it I expected. Granted I am shooting factory loads but i can get less than 1" with my 270 with factory loads and figure I shout be getting that with a heavy barrel 22-250 if I can find the right one. I have read alot about letting the barrel cool, and wondering what is considered cool. Is that 5 min between shots, Can I shoot 2 or 3 before needing it to cool? I have been to the range on pretty cold days and must say my hands get a little numb and its hard to tell. I just want to know that I am getting accurate results and what a proper cooling process is.

Thanks for all the wisdom. This board has made this sport so much fun for me.

Keep it cool enough to hold your hand on is the rule I try to follow.

I use a solution of 50/50 Alcohol/water on a dripping wet rag to cool the barrel. You have to be able to see the solution dripping off the bottom of the barrel to see the very best effective cooling rate. If you are using a Blued barrel, then be sure to oil the barrel when you get home.

You have to be sure that you clean your gun properly, getting all the copper out of the barrel, also.

What make is your rifle, and have you had the trigger addjusted, barrel free floated, action bedded?

Rifles will react very differently with different brands of ammo, you will have to try various brands to see which will shoot the very best.

Wind is a very important factor in how well a gun will group also...I can not stress this enough.

I shoot 3 shot groups instead of 5 shot groups to keep the barrel heat down, cooling inbetween strings. The 4th and 5th shots really heat up a barrel and when the barrel is real hot, it will copper foul the fastest also.

Good luck!

Shooting a Rem 700VLS 26" hvy barrel. I have had the triger adjusted down to about 2pds (lowest the gunsmith will take it to). Don't want to spend the $2-300 on a new trigger.

This is one of those things that I see talked about almost constantly, and I totally disagree with what most guys are doing and reccommending. But 99.5% of the time I just keep my mouth shut and mind my own business. But I'm in a posting mood today, so I'll give my opinion - even though I don't think it will be popular.

Unless you are shooting in good calm conditions, OR you are using windflags and know how to use them, you are way better off just getting all your shots off quickly, than letting the barrel cool between shots.

I see it every time I go to the range. Guys sitting there letting the barrel cool between shots, and in the meantime they are shoot full reversals and big time condition changes between shots. Result? Their groups are weather reports that actually tell them nothing about the true accuracy of one load vs. another.

Much better to just wait for a steady breeze from one direction that you think will hold for a minute, than get off all 3 or 5 shots bascially as fast as you can. This is doubly true with a heavy barrel rifle like yours. It won't get hot enough to matter, shooting a single group like that. Especially when it is cold.

Then let it cool between groups, if it needs it.

With a mild recoiling heavy barreled varmint type rifle, I normally get off a 5 shot group in about 30 to 40 seconds. With lighter barrelled and/or heavier recoling rigs, I only shoot 3 shot groups and get those fired in about 30 seconds. Since I'm not that good at reading flags, it is just easier for me to try and get them all downrange while a condition holds, than it is to try and wait for my condition to return or worse, try to hold off for changing conditions.

Of course, it is always best by far, to simply wait for a day with really good conditions to do any load testing or tuning. But, on a typical day at my range, I honestly think most of the shooters there could shrink their groups by simply getting all their shots off quickly, in one condition, as opposed to letting the barrel cool between shots and then shooting each round in a totally random condition.

- DAA

I agree with DAA. In my experience, I usually obtain my best groups by firing the complete string pretty fast. I'm of the opinion that (within reason, of course), it isn't so much the temp of the barrel, but the degree of temp change allowed to occur in the barrel between shots. Generally, myself included, most shooters don't have the patience required to allow the rifle to cool to ambient temp between shots. And, as DAA pointed out, the actual conditions rarely remain static for that amount of time, anyway.

IOW...a heavy barrel has mass. That's the whole point of the heavy barrels...they take longer to heat up. Say you fire a shot, then wait 2 minutes before shooting the next one. The entire residual heat from the first round has enough time to radiate throughout the entire mass of the barrel. Then you fire the second one...and wait another 2 minutes. Your barrel temp is in a constant state of change, heating one second, cooling the next...etc. By the time you've finished a 5-10 shot string, the barrel has never fired 2 shots in a row, every bit of residual heat has had a chance to radiate (and warp) the entire barrel.

If you fire all your shots before the heating effect of the first shot has warmed the entire mass of the barrel, chances are you'll avoid the effects of cumulative barrel heating.

OTOH, while shooting pdogs, I'll get the barrel warmed to a point that it's just hot enough to allow it to be comfortably gripped in my palm, then I'll attempt to maintain a rate of fire that keeps it at about that temp.

I'm not so much worried about actual barrel temp (once again, within reason), as I am about maintaining a relatively consistent barrel temp.

Mike

Some of the top benchrest shooters can shoot a 5 shot group in 5 seconds, and that is with a single shot.

Jack

Ok so you've now received good info about cooling and shooting speed, though I shoot groups at a slower pace than is discussed above.

However I think your still going to have the same problem of larger than desired groups. What else have you done to your rifle, besides the trigger work, to make it more accurate?

Bigdog2 nothing else has been done...having said that, i am counting on a group that is atleast as good as my Rem 700 Synthetic 270 that shoots less than 1" at 100 yards with factory ammo being that there is less recoil, better barrel etc... Am I shooting for the stars here and should i be brought back down to earth? I spent the money on a good scope (leopold VX-III 4.5X16 with the varmin reticle) and am thinking i just have to find the load that it likes. What else would you recommend? I cant afford to sink to much money into this...I would love some input. Thanks

30 rounds isn't much basis to form an opinion, either negative or positive, especially if shooting factory ammo.

At 30 rounds, I doubt you've even knocked the machining burrs off of the throat.

I suspect you'll find your 1MOA, but it may take trying a few different bullet weights, and likely, different brands of ammo before you discover which combo it likes.

Handloading an accurate load is usually easier than finding the specific factory ammo your rifle likes.

Mike

You've got great equipment so I would think it should, and will do better. However the list of possibilities is almost endless.
There's books written about all the different things that can be done to improve the accuracy of a factory gun. You may want to find and read one.
And with only 30 rounds through the gun, I'd recommend patience and more rounds, before judging it too much.

One limitation is ammo. I've only shot reloads in my 22-250 for probably the last 25 years, so I've not kept track of what's out there for the 22-250 in Factory loadings. But there must be a variety of different factory offerings, and maybe others here have a recommendation.

I'd especially start at the stock to barrel fit, including the action. How does the barrel fit the stock? Has the action been glass bedded? Is the barrel floated (not touching) or does it touch on any side more than other? Does the stock have a pressure point near the tip of the stock? Can you slide two dollar bills from the tip to about 3" in front of the receiver?

At the range, how are you shooting? Off sandbags, a rifle rest, bipod or over a rolled up coat? Do you use a sling while shooting? Are you pushing or pulling on the stock while shooting?

I'm sure there's more and hopefully others will chime-in with good ideas.

Quote:
Some of the top benchrest shooters can shoot a 5 shot group in 5 seconds, and that is with a single shot.

Jack



You're getting some good advice here.
I've learned alot over the years listening to the BR guys.
One guy put it into perspective for me by saying, "with the equipment we use any error at the bench is pretty much eliminated. It's whst's happening down-range that effects groups the most. ". The guy that told me this can shoot his single shot about as fast as others with a semi-auto.

Although excessive heat is one of the worse things one can do to a barrel IMO I doubt you could overheat a barrel with just 30 rounds this time of year.
My test is to grab the barrel for a long 10 count. If it's to hot you'll let go before 10 I assure you.

You have a good rifle and I'm sure it'll come around. Try some other loads and be patient.
One thing you may want to concider is that with the cost of factory ammo any more, the price of trying several brands could buy a good reloading starter package.
Good Luck

Try some different ammo...?

How much does the twist of my barrel effect what bullet weight I should be shooting? Twist rate is 1-14", so my mind tells me I might need to shoot a lighter weight bullet...say the Hornady Varmint Express V-Max in 40 gr. Tomorrow Im gonna shoot the V-Max 50 and 55gr. to see, should I get the 40 gr as well, or is that just to small. Thanks again for all your input, I really have learned so much from this board.

with only thirty rounds through it you really can't tell if it's a shooter or not yet wait till it is broke in good. as for cooling unless I am really pressed for time I allow at least a minute or two between shots the palm of the hand on the barrel for a minute is a good test if you can hold it there then the barrel is cool enough.