.223 drop question

chrono your rounds....then there is a few ballistic calculators online that are pretty accurate....you have to know bullet speed first and formost, then atmospheric condition......
 
Originally Posted By: THERMOLOKI'm shooting 50g vmax blackhills ammo. How would I find out?


The cheap and easier way is to set up targets at 100.200.300 yards and shoot...you won't need a chrongraph for that.

OR, If you are a reloader, many load manuals have ballistic tables in the back for known bullet weight and muzzle velocity [estimate the velocity w/o a chronograph based on the velocity data from the manual for the respective powder quantity /bullet weight you used - it will be close enough].
 
it will be close enough......??? OK...good luck w/that, if your rifle is the exact same as the rifle used to test that round, i guess it will be close enough...no offence, just sayin you really should chrony that round....
 
Give all your specs, scope hieght, ammo, and I can get you very close. I have a ballistic app that is very close.


My hand load in my savage preadtor 10 zeroed for 100yds fall off about 8inches at 300yds Using vmax 55gr bullets
 
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If you zero at 200 yards, your bullet will be 1.3" high at 100 yards and 6.8" low at 300, providing your scope center line is set 1.5" above the barrel center.. That's what I have my .223 bolt action set for the same basic round..

As long as I can keep my shots within a 4" kill/target zone, I'm good out to 250 yards with a dead on hold..
 
shanedogg:

Really, no offense taken; a chronograph is not needed, and the OP does not own one.

Velocity in FPS can be closely approximated if a handloader knows his loads and compares to similar loads; "close enough" is within 100 FPS muzzle velocity of a listed manual load, and the difference in drop is negligible at 300 yards.

PLEASE don't shoot beyond 300 yards and expect to hit a small varmint with a .223 just cause you have a chronograph.

What do you think us old timers used before chronographs? We developed and verified a "point blank range" load and restricted our shots accordingly (with drop tables memorized or taped to the stock for reference). We were good at estimating range [no range finders]; we didn't use target knobs [not typically enough time to do so in a hunting situation or even needed].

The old way still works; no phone apps needed either.
 
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+1 as well, here... I am a "young buck" according to the old timer that I am "apprenticing" under in learning to load... He has recipe cards taped to every long range gun he owns, and learns drop the old fashioned way... shooting the round at 100, 200, 300, and on a couple of his(and my) guns, 400 and 500yds... If you are loading ammo, I find it more fun to figure out these things on my own, and have exact numbers for each round/gun I own.
 
This old timer had a top of the line Pact chronograph years ago and got so frustrated with it, I sold the dam thing and happy I did.

I am of the opinion that the OP is not looking for nuts on info but just general info.

So all he needs is what the manufacture says it is shooting in FPS and compare with a good chart from bullet MFG.on the exterior ballistics. Might need to and or subtract a little FPS for barrel length.

If he wants nut's on info then he will need a Chronograph and a good ballistic chart/program and then prove it on the range just to be sure.

DAB
 


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