5W-30 case lube failure

Rustydust

Rustydust

Active member
Hey Guys

Did any of you see the clip where the guy is using synthetic oil for case lube? I think it was 5W-20 or 5W-30. Well anyway, I tried it with my .223 cases and it worked fine. Great even. Tried it with my 17 Rem cases and again, worked fine! Cool! Never have to buy case lube again!

Ahem. Tried it on my 220 Swift cases a few days ago and after a few well lubed cases it seemed as if they were getting a bit more difficult and then- dam!- stuck a case in the die. Tore the rim right off the case trying to get the freking brass back out. Never stuck a case in this die in over 30 years until now. Im going back to my Imperial case lube. Lesson learned- I hope anyway.
 
Seems to me like any thing thin enough to be an engine lube would be to thin to make a good case lube. Case lube of any type is a pretty thick grease sometimes mixed with wax or other thick lubes. Motor oil has to be thin enough to curculate through the engine via the oil pump. Oil pumps I have taken apart usually have clearances or .010 to .020 in the impellor. The clearance between the die body and case walls is what .0001? If that much, grease will not compress very far so for a lube to work well it has to retain lubrocity while being non compressable beyod a certain limit. Engine lube will wipe off if put into to close a tolerance, Grease will not.
 
Quote:
Hey Guys

Did any of you see the clip where the guy is using synthetic oil for case lube? I think it was 5W-20 or 5W-30. Well anyway, I tried it with my .223 cases and it worked fine. Great even. Tried it with my 17 Rem cases and again, worked fine! Cool! Never have to buy case lube again!

Ahem. Tried it on my 220 Swift cases a few days ago and after a few well lubed cases it seemed as if they were getting a bit more difficult and then- dam!- stuck a case in the die. Tore the rim right off the case trying to get the freking brass back out. Never stuck a case in this die in over 30 years until now. Im going back to my Imperial case lube. Lesson learned- I hope anyway.



Keep in mind that 5W-30 oil means that at room temperature, it is a 5 weight oil - that's little better than 3-1 oil... no protection at all.


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I like Frankfort Arsenel Pump spray lube. I do use Motor Medic or STP on a Q-tip to lube the inside of case necks when expanding up the first time, a little goes along way.

AWS
 
The spray-on case lubes are probably the best thing to happen to reloading in years.

You can make your own spray case sizing lube in bulk by mixing liquid lanolin and 99% isopropyl alcohol (do not use lower concentrations, too much water). A solution of 1 part liquid lanolin and 4 to 5 parts parts 99 percent isopropyl alcohol (4 oz of liquid lanolin to 16 - 20 oz of isopropyl) works well. When mixing you may find that the lanolin mixes better if you warm both the alcohol and lanolin in a bath of warm water to about 105 - 110 degrees F before mixing. DO NOT WARM EITHER OF THEM OVER AN OPEN FLAME! Once the solutions are warm, pour together, mix thoroughly, allow the mix to cool (mix occasionally as it cools) and store in an air tight container to prevent water from being absorbed by the isopropyl. Put mixture into an ordinary spray bottle.

To apply the lube, spread the cases in a single layer on a clean surface and spray. Allow the cases to sit for a couple of minutes, roll the cases around and lightly spray again. Wait until the alcohol has evaporated (about 5 minutes) and start sizing. Properly lubed cases will have a slightly greasy feel to them without feeling slimy.

This appears to be very similar to what Dillon sells. Make your own, you'll save money. You can find all the ingredients on the internet. When I first started, I found everything in a local super market.

I post this often.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
Claimbuster, You are right. The Lanoline and Alchol mix is what Dillon sells for case lube. I've used it and it works real well. However, I went to using Hornady one-shot because they claim is doesn't affect primers or powder.

I've tried and it worked well WD-40. I just don't like having to clean my cases up after using a petro based lube.
 
I use the RCBS water based lube and just wash the cases in hot soapy water after sizing. I do use Imperial for case forming but it is not needed for normal resizing.

Jack
 
The final step in my rifle reloading process, whether it be single stage or progressive, is a one-by-one towel wiping of every cartridge.

It's my final QC check. This is where I do my last look to verify that each one is something I am prepared to put within 5" of my face and pull the trigger.

The effort associated with this last cleaning is irrelevant, its something that forces me to do that last, all important, check.

Just the way I do it! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
 
I saw the video, and tried it once. Got the same result, a stuck case. Hadn't had one in years. Went right back to my RCBS Case Lube. Of course this only applies to cases that I'm FL resizing. When I neck size, no lube is necessary.

Dave
 
I have used the soap residue from a water soaked cake of bar soap ...... anhydrous lanolin ...... STP ...... Lee case lube. They all worked, but the one which has always worked best, particularly on full length sizing of bottlenecked cases has been Imperial sizing die wax.
 
I've tried just about every case lube sold and a whole lot of "home brews". Bottom line is you can buy a lifetime supply of Imperial for less than $10....it will do everything. Then for the simplest sizing Hornady One shot.

Motor oil is smelly, harder to wash off and not nearly as effective IMHO.
 
RCBS does not approve using standard imperial wax as a lubricant. I have gotten cases stuck in an RCBS dies using wax based lube. They told me when I called that Hornady one-shot is wax based and not approved. I don't know this to be fact, but I have had zero trouble once going to a none wax based lube.
 
No doubt RCBS approves of their own lube. Given that Redding, who now owns the rights and name of the product sold as Imperial, I bet they approve of it.
 
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