Accuracy and T/C forends

JTPinTX

Custom Call Maker
Okay, I have read alot of the threads about washers/spacers and getting the forend off the barrel on the encores, but have been doing some thinking about all that. The problem, in my mind, is that no matter what you do, the pressure is still on the barrel. On a bolt gun you float the barrel, and bags/bipod/hand does not put pressure on the barrel, it is suspended by the action. On the Encore though, no matter what you do the weight of the gun is suspended by the barrel itself, via the forend. Different shooting positions are going to produce different levels of pressure and affect POI.

I have heard T/C shooters say to put the bags under the rear forend screw when you are shooting off the bench, but if you zero this way, and then shoot 'yotes off a bipod (which attaches in front of the foreward screw) what effect does this have on the guns zero? I have been thinking about stiffening the forend between the screw holes by bedding it with an aluminum rod in it, bedding the forend between the screws, and moving the sling stud slightly behind the foreward screw. Has anyone tried anything like this or am I worrying about something that doesn't matter? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
If you're getting the accuracy you want, then it's not a problem. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Encores and Contenders shoot best off the bench when the bags are close to the frame. That's why I don't use a bipod with them - I'm still playing with shooting sticks to see if I like them.
 
I mill an aluminum hanger that attaches w/one screw to the rear barrel hanger..Then I mill a channel in the forearm for the aluminum hanger and attach the forearm w/the existing factory screw holes. I've been doing this for years and it works great...I even thought about selling them..but no time and my Bridgeport is not programable..With this setup, the barrel rides 1/2" above the forearm.
 
All I know is that I have been Shooting Contender Handguns since 1982, and the method you describe about floating the forend has worked well for me.

I have used Hanger Bars, and Washers to float the barrels, and both work and serve the intended purpose. I think that if the forend is not contacting the barrel along it's entire length is what is making the difference.

When set up right, on certain barrels I have actually never had a point of impact shift when shooting off of a front rest, bipod or shooting sticks. However that is not true all the time, but rather with certain barrels I have had.

In addition to using the hanger bars or washers I generally also sand out some material from the forend for a little more clearance. This way the forend is not contacting the barrel for the full length of the forend but rather contacting the barrel in two places with equal amout of contact.

Larry
 
Basically, bed the two mounting screws, and then float the rest of the forend. Then try to keep whatever is supporting the rifle (bags, sticks, bipod, hand) between the two screws. Under this system it seems it would be a good idea to stiffen the forend (mine is composite) between the mounting screws.
 
Well, I was going to just bed it and be done, but something else has cropped up. The hole spacing on my forend and barrel is off a little too much to suit me, so I am going to go ahead and pillar bed it to get it right. I mean it's not bad, but the holes on the barrel are slightly closer together than the ones on the forend, and the screws drag a little as you put them in. I am just a zero pressure kind of guy, and it bugs me. The forend will only fit this barrel from now on, but that is no big deal for me either, the rest of my barrels are pistol barrels anyways.

I turned my pillars on the lathe a few minutes ago, punched out the forend holes on the drill press, and will glue it up tonight.
 
i also have a tc that i suspect has this issue my qhestion is why does tc not either fix the problem or offer the items to fix it?????????
 
T/C is very accurate. i have a 223 and 12 gauge slug gun. 223 under 1 inch ,slug gun under 1 3/4. get a good trigger installed.
 
Last edited:
This particular barrel is not a T/C, it is a Bergara (24" .223). Looks like it is going to be a shooter though, just trying to get everything right before I get too deep into testing with it. I will write up a review of it once I have some hard data. There are a couple things about it that I wasn't crazy about, but it seems to be good where it matters. Preliminary tests have shown promise.

My frame does have a trigger job, I did it using Bellm's springs and tutorial. It is nice, would have gone one step lighter on the spring but kids shoot this rifle too, and it is real easy to get it too light for them.
 


Write your reply...
Back
Top