accurizing factory rifle

M

MOUNTAINEER

New member
I was wonder what some you all do to make your factory rifle more accurate. And what the order of importants for things like bedding the action, recrown barrel,lap lugs,trigger work,working up load,ect.or anything else i forgot.Also is there one thing you did that really made a difference more than any other. I hope i asked this correctly. Im not sure how else to say it. Im trying to make my rifle shoot better groups. I practice allot but i m never really saticfied. I shoot a Ruger M77 mkII 300 win mag. Icurrently shoot factory ammo. Ive already changed the trigger for a timney and that was great but im wondering if i can do more. Thanks Mountaineer
 
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What I did first was float the barrel then trigger job after that it shot sub-moa I stop there. If that did work I would have lap the barrel then lap the lugs then recrown. If notheing else work, if I can afford it replace barrel. In concern to your problem most MAGNUMS like the 300 win are hard to shoot if your geting moa it's a SHOOTER!
 
I have never done anything, than play with the factory trigger adjustments on Remingtons, and work up the right load for the gun. I believe(thought I am not very knowlegable) once you find the right load you will be fine in most cases. Least that is how it has worked for me.

Good Luck, Michael
 
Going through all of that is all well and good. Truth is, ultra accurate factory rifles are at best not the norm. I do have a .220 Swift, Rem. VSSF, that shoots in the .2's and 3's. It was a lucky purchase. Good glass is a must especially in the Magnum arena. A good trigger is as important as a good barrel, a good true action, and good loading and shooting technique. You are on the right road. Do a little at a time. A good bedding job, is cheap enough, and may improve your rifle by leaps and bounds. Some rifles like full length bedding, I have a factory model 70 winchester 25-06, that free floated, shot 1-1/2" groups. After full length bedding, it now shoots 1/2" groups. As far as the crowning, and lug lapping, you'd be better off saving your bucks, and buying a cooper, which guarantee's acccuracy. I've done several custom jobs, and I think my next rifle may be a cooper. They are very cost effective for what you get. Just some thoughts. Butcher
 
Clean it properly and check to make sure it is not binding in the stock and screws are tightened. Shoot it and see how it groups keeping the target for reference. If it groups good and crown soot marks look good adjust trigger as needed. If it walks float the barrel and bed the action. You should see some fraction of improvement with each change if it was actually needed. Fine tuning loads would be toward the end of the process. If you had any success it will be obvious from the 1st target and your most recent.
 
Thanks for the info guys but now i have a few more questions if yall dont mind. when i installed the trigger i noticed that the holes where the action and barrel fit in had some wood burrs and junk in them. most of it wasnt even attached to the stock it was just laying in there.Looks like Ruger didnt pay much attention.Should i remove any ove the attached wood burrs. I also noticed that it was semi free floated barrel (last inch or so touches). I was told not to free float it because rugers tend to shoot worse with the barrel free. Is this true? Also is it possible to just bed the action and not the barrel or is this a no no ? Im not sure if it matters but its a laminate stock. Thanks again Mountaineer
 


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