Annealing brass
- Thread starter Billygoat62
- Start date
No i have a hose that hooks up to the cylinder and the nozzle is positioned on the post and adjust up and down to hit the neck shoulder junction.
Time is adjusted with lights out until orange glow.
If you look up AGS annealer he has a video showing how it operates...I have used it for 2 years now with no problems.
Time is adjusted with lights out until orange glow.
If you look up AGS annealer he has a video showing how it operates...I have used it for 2 years now with no problems.
I saw that post and figured that to hang the torch onbut curiosity got the best of me as to uniformity was controlled. So you first adjust by sight and set the timer and from then on w/that batch of brass the timer takes over? Makes sense to me now. 
The only annealing I ever did was years ago; hand held torch, eyeball controls and pan of water and I suspected the slight case to case variation would, or could affect accuracy. Figured keeping brass in separate lots, all cases would harden more or less equally in that lot, if that makes sense. I did anneal when back when I did a little case forming years ago.
The only annealing I ever did was years ago; hand held torch, eyeball controls and pan of water and I suspected the slight case to case variation would, or could affect accuracy. Figured keeping brass in separate lots, all cases would harden more or less equally in that lot, if that makes sense. I did anneal when back when I did a little case forming years ago.
Sgt_Mike
Well-known member
Definitely then.
Although I will admit there are times when reducing body taper or necks some times annealing can work against you. But as a rule usually works especially if done little bit by little bit sizing and annealing. Which there I'm referring to taking like the .357 Maximum case and tuning it into a .221 rimmed version. That one takes a bit of work to say the least.
With the 6mm Ackley Improved which most are aware is my latest focus. That one is great, simply size with the regular parent die, anneal. Load to your known good load for the parent case, fire out comes the Ackley Improved version. The Ackley Improved are in my opinion the absolute easiest way to "wildcat" regardless of the parent case.
I will absolutely agree with both practices. Some folks never use brass beyond 3 firings, some don't.
That should be a individual call, based on desired outcomes. Which is why some say they simply don't anneal unless "wildcatting".
IMHO it is fine to do so, or not do so.
I do anneal but like I stated previously I'm bad to pick up range brass. In my practice it just gets all the brass on a somewhat even "keel". The other aspect I'm always looking at my brass before loading, probably way more than most.
Although I'm not the OP I have thoroughly enjoyed the discussion. Thank you.
Regards
Mike
alf
Well-known member
I came up with this contraption after going through the drill/socket escapades prior to the similar commercial version.
W/O tooting my horn too loud, when I was active shooting 600/1000 registered benchrest, I set multiple range & a couple world records, so I'm firm believer in annealing after every firing. You don't have to spend big bucks to get proper annealing. I even anneal new brass prior to loading for the first time, & I don't feel you get there until it's been annealed at least twice.
W/O tooting my horn too loud, when I was active shooting 600/1000 registered benchrest, I set multiple range & a couple world records, so I'm firm believer in annealing after every firing. You don't have to spend big bucks to get proper annealing. I even anneal new brass prior to loading for the first time, & I don't feel you get there until it's been annealed at least twice.
For me, it depends on the application. But I don't consider less than seven or eight firings acceptable in anything. Something like the .22BR, I have cases with dozens of firings on them and no sign of ever wearing out.
Loose primer pockets is the only thing I ever retire any brass for though. Never had head separation. Never had split necks - except for one batch of crappy Rem. brass which wasn't worth any effort to save. I'm running all customs though. Min spec chambers, tight necks (less than .001 clearance per side). Neck size only, without an expander - necks just don't get worked much at all. Some chambers do require a very occasional shoulder bump, but not much of a one. Other chambers, brass lasts forever without even needing a shoulder bump. My favorite coyote rifle is a .17 Predator. The fellow who invented the cartridge had two FL dies custom made and gave me one. Haven't ever used it. A dozen firings with bushing neck sizing only and the brass still chambers easily.
I don't ever bother to trim cases, either. Or tumble them. Only for the very occasional shoulder bump do I ever even have to put any lube on them. It's a whole system approach. Little bit of planning and work up front, easy peasy accuracy and reloading for the life of the barrel.
- DAA
I caught the intended meaning
.That said... Now that I think about it. For my AR, I do reload. But I use cheap armory prepped LC brass and I let it lie where it lands. So I'm good with one firing for that one
.- DAA
Sgt_Mike
Well-known member
Have a friend whom used two pieces of brass, one was for actually shooting, the other I guess a backup. Chambered in 30BR set his neck exactly to be able to just pop the primer, reseat primer stuff the case with H4198 push bullet in by hand slightly, chamber and fire. Rinse and repeat. No dies, nothing ever, far as I know he is still just using that one piece of brass.
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Pressure absolutely dictates. Brass quality and chamber fit play a minor role too though. A sloppy chamber or crappy brass just ain't gonna go the distance. Unless, you lower pressure to an unreasonably low level. And nobody ever wants that.
Mike mentioned a big case transformation. One of mine, was making .17 Mach IV and .221 FB out of IMI .223 brass. At the time, no other Fireball brass existed other than Rem. And it was total crap. In every measurable objective way. CRAP BRASS. Neutered the chamberings. I knew from previous experimentation that the IMI .223 was hell for stout and had primer pockets that would take a beating and ask for more. Making that brass was a project. But the performance gains were significant. Running MORE pressure, but getting orders of magnitude longer brass life. In fact, that was, geeze, twenty years ago? Haven't worn out any of that IMI .17 Mach IV yet, running velocities nipping at the heels of .17 Rem. Would have to check notes for number of firings, but more than 15.
- DAA
coyotekilla83
Active member
Burstfire 2 annealer. Soft brass trims easier. I rarely split a neck. Certain calibers i anneal every time, 22-250, 243, 6.5prc. Others like my 6.5 grendel... not that often.