Anyone using CH dies?

dogcaller

New member
I have a friend,who is wanting to get started in reloading.He has a set of CH,FL.223 dies.They are in like new condition,no rust that I can see.I see by the instructions that were with the die set,that they set-up different than my RCBS dies.My question,will a RCBS shellholder work with these dies?Thanks,dogcaller.
 
They should work perfectly with your shellholder. But, skip the directions with either die set, and set your full length die to bump the shoulder of the fired case back .001-.002". Measuring what you are doing tells the whole story...don't guess. Stoney Point/Hornady make good tools to show you exactly where you are. Then, if you are using brass from the same manufacturer, and lubing the cases consistently, things should click. Have fun...but realize that reloading is kind of a bug: once bitten, you may never recover.
 
Thanks for the reply,I know all about the reloading bug,been doing it for about 10yrs.Just started loading for pistol,so I just had to have another press and powder measure.Everytime something new comes out,I think I have to try it.
Could you elaborate on bumping the shoulders back,and how to measure the setback.This is something that I think I need to be doing,but have never tried it.Thank-you.
 
You need a case shoulder length gauge to measure how much you are setting the shoulder back. The RCBS case mic is good but so are others.

Jack
 
I personally couldn't agree more with the very good advice Onionskin has given you.

It's very easy to accomplish the .001-.002 shoulder setback he recommends with the Stoney Point / Hornady Head & Shoulders gage, and the directions supplied with it are very comprehensive, easy to understand, etc., so you won't have any trouble once you get it.

I know they're available at Sportsman Whse., and Gander Mtn. So hopefully one of the two is near you. You'll find after awhile it was money very well spent!

Hangtime.
 
Quote:
I have a friend,who is wanting to get started in reloading.He has a set of CH,FL.223 dies.They are in like new condition,no rust that I can see.I see by the instructions that were with the die set,that they set-up different than my RCBS dies. My question,will a RCBS shellholder work with these dies? Thanks, dogcaller.




C-H has been around since forever, and they make very good tools and dies.

All dies work with all shell holders... and the few exceptions are too few to mention.

If your friend wants to start reloading, then a lot of the above advice might be over his head - and to start off getting headspace and case measuring tools is a bit much, and more money than it's worth at this point.


Don't set the die to set the shoulder back 0.001" or 0.002"...
... first off, you will not be able to accurately measure that - even with the gauges mentioned above.

But secondly, there is no need to size the cases that much, cuz if you set the die up that way, you will be also sizing the body every time, and there is no need to do that, cuz you will be overworking the brass a bunch.

If he doesn't have a "neck size die", have him set the FL die up so it is about 1/2 turn off of the shell holder, and don't touch the shoulders until the cases are tight in the chamber.


.
 
Don't set the die to set the shoulder back 0.001" or 0.002"...
... first off, you will not be able to accurately measure that - even with the gauges mentioned above.

But secondly, there is no need to size the cases that much, cuz if you set the die up that way, you will be also sizing the body every time, and there is no need to do that, cuz you will be overworking the brass a bunch.

If he doesn't have a "neck size die", have him set the FL die up so it is about 1/2 turn off of the shell holder, and don't touch the shoulders until the cases are tight in the chamber.


.



First off, what's so hard about accurately measuring case shoulder setback? If you can read a micrometer, I'd say most anyone can do this very easily, using the inexpensive gauges.

As far as overworking the brass, that minimal setback will not wreck your brass. Most likely, the case necks will fail before you ever stretch the body enough to be a problem.

If you want to neck size, thats fine: use a neck die. However, backing off the full length die will cause the shoulder to rise... and within a few loadings, that brass will get tight in your gun, to the point where it might not chamber. I'd much prefer having things work smoothly, all the time.

Backing off the full length die can be useful to find the correct setting for it though. Take a couple brass, size them with the full length die backed off 1/2 turn, load and fire, then repeat. Usually after the second time, that case gets pretty snug. Then, you can take the full length die down in small increments, until you can just barely feel that sized case being chambered. Your full length die will then size your brass perfectly for that gun. (But the gauges do the same thing, quicker and easier)
 
What is the point of putting a new reloader through all that stuff, and spending that money - which would be better spent on other things?

There is no point to it.

People do fine for many years withOUT a set of headspacing tools.

Again... what is to be gained - nothing.

There are much better ways for a beginner to spend his money.

.
 
I wish I could have had some good instruction, and the gauges now available, when I started reloading. It would have saved me a lot of time and money both. With the price of brass being considerable, especially for some of the big guns, making sure things work properly, while extending the brass life...seems pretty worthwhile to me.
 
Quote:
"... With the price of brass being considerable, especially for some of the big guns, making sure things work properly, while extending the brass life...seems pretty worthwhile to me.



He's shooting a .223!!.

That stuff is NOT a "Big gun", and not expensive!


.
 
Yes, .223 brass is affordable, but the other 75 readers certainly have other calibers...and the basics apply to any non-rimmed caliber. After working with reloading customers for many years, I think that incorrect full length sizing is one of the most common problems in reloading. Just my .02 worth.
 
Purchased my first set of CH dies about 50 years when I replaced by IDEAL Tong Tool with the CH Press. Have 30-30, 30-06, 270 and 243 dies.
Still have them and when the need arises, I use them with the CH press. Also use Lee Dies and Lyman.

Killed many hundreds of woodchuck with a 30-30 Savage 340 Bolt Action. Most of those were Tong Tool reloads.

Frankie B.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gifWe could still be cooking with buffalo chips too, as they obviously worked, but most will chose not to! I am simply an advocate of using the tools and technology we now possess.
 
Quote:
I am simply an advocate of using the tools and technology we now possess.




The tools are the same. Today they are painted a different color or shape. They might smell better than buffalo chips, but they are the same. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


Frankie B.
 
Sorry to stir-up a controversy,I asked the original question,because I had not seen a set of CH dies before.I knew of the company,but did not even know if they were still in business.I was reasonably sure that the shellholder would work,but was just curios.
I asked about shoulder set-back,for my own info,as I have been thinking of doing it myself,but did not know much about it.Still do'nt know if I will try it or not.
As far as the friend who wants to start reloading,I will start him with the basics,and as he gains experience,he can decide where to go from there.Thank-you all for your replies.
 


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