ar15 flash hider

josebd

josebd

New member
i have the a-2 flash hider,and i noticed the vents are up and down and the rest to the left,is this ok,or do they nedd to be more up or down?
 
When indexed correctly, the "ports" or vents should be from 9-3 O'clock, with the solid portion of the flash hider on the underside.
 
Brownells sells a threaded sleeve that replaces the flash supressor. It made cleaning a little easier and I swear I think my Stag grouped better without it. Thread the supressor off and thread the sleeve, thread protector as I recall, on in it's place. Don't have to worry about getting Sweets out of the supressor. Leaves the muzzle crown slightly recessed.
 
the solid part of the flash hider is at 3 o'clock,will this hurt anything?or do i need to get it indexed right?
 
The Army doesn't require the M16A2 (or A4) or M4 flash suppressor to be perfectly timed (top dead center), so it's really not a huge issue. If you decide that you want to get yours perfectly timed though, it isn't difficult. You can remove the flash suppressor with a 3/4" open-end wrench or a 10-12" crescent wrench. If you want to time it correctly and don't have either a crush or peel washer, you'll need to remove metal from the rear of the suppressor.

You can do that by placing a piece of 220 grit sandpaper on a flat surface - I use a 6" square of safety glass that I had an automotive glass shop cut for me. I rounded the corners and lightly beveled the edge on a disc sander to remove any sharp edges.

Move the suppressor in a figure-eight pattern while applying medium pressure to it. Stop frequently and test-fit the suppressor on your barrel. When you're finished, clean everything up and cold blue the rear face of the flash suppressor, then install it.
 
well i got to thinking and i decided to see if i can fix it.i put it in a vise with a tool i had to put golf clubs together,works pretty good but didnt even need it,put wrench on it and it loosened real easy,so i went to town and find 2 electrical terminals,1/2 eye.dressed them up to look halfway decent,left the original crush washer on it then put the 2 i rigged up,and its lined up now. i dont see why that wont work.
 
Can't you buy a crush washer for that? My local gun store sells the crush washers for about $8 each. I've got an Ambush Firearms AR15 5.56 in Realtree AP camo and want to install a Advanced Armament Corp. Blackout Flash Hider. It's a three prong thing and allows a silencer to be quickly attached to it via threads on the outside of the Flash Hider Unit. But I have to install the flash higer onto the end of my AR15 barrel. The Ambush Firearms AR15 comes with a 1/2" OD 28 TPI barrel with a thread protector sleeve threaded over the screws at the end of the barrel. I have to watch out to make sure that the barrel protector sleeve doesn't come unscrewed and fall off the end of the barrel. I don't want to use Loctite on it until I ger ready to screw the Flash Hider onto the end of the barrel. I don't have a silencer right now but I might get one in the long range future. They are allowed in IN now. But I read that one has to pay $200 in tax then apply for a permit or something before you can buy one of those silencer. That would be nice to not have to wear ear muff at night. I wear eye glasses and a light that fits over my baseball cap and when I tried to sling my rifle over my off shoulder it knocks my hat and light off my head. And I can't see the attachments for the Magpul Sling thing. My eye glasses fogged up on me and I could not see a [beeep] thing at night in the cold when they do that. And the electronic ear muffs get in the way of my cheek weld on the AR15's adjustable stock too. So it would be nice to get rid of the ear muffs and not have to worry about my hearing being destroyed by the loud sounds of fishing the AR15. The ear muffs also help amplify sounds around me so that's a nice feature. They shut off automatically if a loud noise is encountered and then they turn back on so you can hear things around you at 4X volume. I want to hear the coyotes coming hehe. Before they get too close to shoot. But I've got a new EOTech EXPS3-4 Holographic weapons sight to use with my wicked 400 light at night. And during the day I'll add a M-33 EOTech Magnifier with flip to the side mounts. I've decided that is my best setup for night hunting solo. It will let me shoot fast movers up close at night and with the semi auto AR15 I and a ten round clip I should be able to hold off an army of coyotes if I can hear and see them.

The Ambush Firearms AR15 5.56 cal has an 18" long barrel which is a little longer than I like but it helps it shoot better at longer range in the daylight. I'll be putting on an M-233 Nikon BDC scope 4x16x43 on the rifle for day time Ops.
 
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This is a very simple fix. Buy a crush washer, remove the flash hider with a wrench, then retighten it back on with the crush washer until it is timed correctly. Done...
 
But how does one keep the barrel from turning while you screw on the flash hider.

I got a Advanced Armament Corp Blackout Flash Hider that has to be screwed onto a 1/2" x 28 tpi threaded barrel and the directions say to use the Advanced Armament Corp Installation tool and to screw it on tight using 20 to 30 ft/lbs of torque.

I have everything to do the job but I don't have a barrel vise to hold the barrel steady while I use a torque wrench and the tool to tighten the Flash Hider onto the Barrel.

What exactly is a barrel vise and where can I get something like that. Is there anything else that one can use to protect the barrel while clamping it in place so it won't turn while torquing the flash hider onto the barrel?
 
Thanks. I didn't see this post until tonight. I forgot that I had this in my "watched topic list". I'm still learning how this web site works. It's a little different than the other forums I belong to.

But this is a good idea. I was worrying about changing the shape of my barrel if I clamped it in a metal vice and the wood could absorb most all the pressure and keep the barrel from being reshaped and affecting it's accuracy. The friction tape is a good idea too.

When it gets warmer I can pull the boat out of my garage and make the wood parts and do this job. What size drill bit did you use? I guess I could take my calipers and measure the OD of my barrel to figure that out if I forget to come back to this thread for an answer.

Originally Posted By: pahntr760http://www.instructables.com/id/AR-15M16-barrell-vise-block/

Make one

 
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