barrel cleaning brushes
- Thread starter lawnman
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Ridge Runner
New member
always scrub with a brush and solvet to start, bronze brushes, or nylon. absolutely no stainless steel. wet a brush in a good copper remover ( shooters choice, sweets 7.62, or barnes.
start from muzzle end and make 12-15 complete strokes, (when the brush comes out either end of the barreled action is 1 stroke (don't stop the brush in the barrel) then a dry patch or 2, then more brushing until the first dry patch after brushing has no blue/green tint to it, another dry patch, then an oily one.
RR
start from muzzle end and make 12-15 complete strokes, (when the brush comes out either end of the barreled action is 1 stroke (don't stop the brush in the barrel) then a dry patch or 2, then more brushing until the first dry patch after brushing has no blue/green tint to it, another dry patch, then an oily one.
RR
Never clean a barrel from the muzzle end unless there's no other option. Bronze brush is critical. The general wisdom is one stroke of the brush for each shot fired. When at the bench I clean after every 10 rounds. I swab the barrel with a mop soaked in Butch's Bore Shine and let it soak for a couple of minutes. The I follow up with a patch soaked with Butch's and keep at it until the patch comes out clean and white. Next step is 2 or 3 dry patches then a patch soaked with oil. Before shooting the rifle I run a few patches through to get the oil out.Getting the oil out makes it so the first shot after cleaning isn't usually a flyer.
Go to either Krieger Barrels or Pac Nor's web site and see the instructions for cleaning. Cleaning from the muzzle end makes damaging the crown more likely. That will ruin the accuracy of the barrel.
Go to either Krieger Barrels or Pac Nor's web site and see the instructions for cleaning. Cleaning from the muzzle end makes damaging the crown more likely. That will ruin the accuracy of the barrel.
EddieHarren
New member
I don't think I'd dip a bronze or copper brush into any copper solvent. If the solvent is worth its salt, it'll eat up a copper or bronze brush. I also agree with all of the above posts about cleaning from the muzzle.
Linefinder
New member
I agree with Ridge Runner....no stainless.
I'm not real keen on nylon brushes, either. I own a Hawkeye borescope and have tested various brands and types of brushes. While nylon brushes are pretty good at removing bulk powder fouling, they don't seem to have what it takes to get all the gunk out the the corners of the lands and grooves. They also take a long time to remove copper, if ever.
Since most bore damage is caused by the rod itself, I prefer to use a quality bronze brush for 10 strokes than a nylon brush for 50.
Mike
I'm not real keen on nylon brushes, either. I own a Hawkeye borescope and have tested various brands and types of brushes. While nylon brushes are pretty good at removing bulk powder fouling, they don't seem to have what it takes to get all the gunk out the the corners of the lands and grooves. They also take a long time to remove copper, if ever.
Since most bore damage is caused by the rod itself, I prefer to use a quality bronze brush for 10 strokes than a nylon brush for 50.
Mike
Evil_Lurker
New member
Quote:
I don't think I'd dip a bronze or copper brush into any copper solvent. If the solvent is worth its salt, it'll eat up a copper or bronze brush.
I have one I use with Sweet's 7.62 to cut the copper. It's now bright green, and if you run it through the barrel for 10 strokes, the next few patches come out blue. You could repeat that "cleaning" process forever if you were so inclined. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I don't think I'd dip a bronze or copper brush into any copper solvent. If the solvent is worth its salt, it'll eat up a copper or bronze brush.
I have one I use with Sweet's 7.62 to cut the copper. It's now bright green, and if you run it through the barrel for 10 strokes, the next few patches come out blue. You could repeat that "cleaning" process forever if you were so inclined. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I would bet that RR meant to wet the brush while it is sticking out the muzzle end, and start counting your strokes from there? Maybe?
I do wet my brushes at the muzzle end, but I count a round trip with the brush as 1 stroke. Then again, when I have a barrel dirty enough to need the brushes, I don't really count strokes. I start with a new brush and keep going until it starts to feel loose - usually about 40 strokes or so. Then I throw the brush away (only get 1 use out of 'em).
- DAA
I do wet my brushes at the muzzle end, but I count a round trip with the brush as 1 stroke. Then again, when I have a barrel dirty enough to need the brushes, I don't really count strokes. I start with a new brush and keep going until it starts to feel loose - usually about 40 strokes or so. Then I throw the brush away (only get 1 use out of 'em).
- DAA
Another thing to consider, if you are dunking brushes into your bottle of solvent: the crud you add to your solvent will have ruined the whole bottle in short order. Get the solvent proof squeeze bottles, and you can apply what you want, and keep the bottle contents fresh.
I don't use brushes much anymore. Using a Hawkeye borescope, I find that Wipe Out foam bore cleaner does the work for me. I'll patch out the loose crud with whatever solvent happens to be handy, then dry, and fill with foam. Follow that with the Shooters Choice/Kroil mix, one dry patch, and good to go. No fouling shots needed either; first one goes where you expect.
I don't use brushes much anymore. Using a Hawkeye borescope, I find that Wipe Out foam bore cleaner does the work for me. I'll patch out the loose crud with whatever solvent happens to be handy, then dry, and fill with foam. Follow that with the Shooters Choice/Kroil mix, one dry patch, and good to go. No fouling shots needed either; first one goes where you expect.
Quote:
...I don't use brushes much anymore. Using a Hawkeye borescope, I find that Wipe Out foam bore cleaner does the work for me. I'll patch out the loose crud with whatever solvent happens to be handy, then dry, and fill with foam. Follow that with the Shooters Choice/Kroil mix, one dry patch, and good to go. No fouling shots needed either; first one goes where you expect.
Almost exactly the same here. Except instead of SC/Kroil, I follow up the Wipeout with a quick patch job using Montana Xtreme just to make sure all the Wipeout is gone and the bore surface is dry, then I finish with a single patch of colloidal graphite.
Hardly ever use brushes anymore either though.
- DAA
...I don't use brushes much anymore. Using a Hawkeye borescope, I find that Wipe Out foam bore cleaner does the work for me. I'll patch out the loose crud with whatever solvent happens to be handy, then dry, and fill with foam. Follow that with the Shooters Choice/Kroil mix, one dry patch, and good to go. No fouling shots needed either; first one goes where you expect.
Almost exactly the same here. Except instead of SC/Kroil, I follow up the Wipeout with a quick patch job using Montana Xtreme just to make sure all the Wipeout is gone and the bore surface is dry, then I finish with a single patch of colloidal graphite.
Hardly ever use brushes anymore either though.
- DAA
t/c223encore
New member
so why is it you clean from the chamber end and not the muzzle end? can someone explain? just curious as to why.
t/c223encore.
t/c223encore.
berettaman
New member
You should never clean from the muzzle as you can't hold the cleaning rod w/o hitting the bore. Use a bore guide and clean from breech. I use bronze brushes, but am going to try Wipeout.
Linefinder
New member
WipeOut is likely the best gun cleaning product ever invented. I've borescoped a lot of bores while using various methods/cleaners, and WipeOut works 100% every time.
If WipeOut has a downside, it is the amount of time it takes to perform it's magic on a heavily copper fouled bore. If I don't have time for an overnight soak, I utilize KG Industries KG-1 for quick carbon removal, followed by a 20 stroke patching with KG-2. Used in conjunction, these 2 products work almost as well as an overnight soak in WipeOut, but take only 10-15 minutes.
But....WipeOut is still my preferred cleaning method, and I've tried (and borescoped the results) a lot of them.
Mike
If WipeOut has a downside, it is the amount of time it takes to perform it's magic on a heavily copper fouled bore. If I don't have time for an overnight soak, I utilize KG Industries KG-1 for quick carbon removal, followed by a 20 stroke patching with KG-2. Used in conjunction, these 2 products work almost as well as an overnight soak in WipeOut, but take only 10-15 minutes.
But....WipeOut is still my preferred cleaning method, and I've tried (and borescoped the results) a lot of them.
Mike
Right. Wipe Out is slow. Another idea crept into my head: maybe the foam gravitates to the bottom of the barrel, leaving it squeaky clean... but what about the top? So, I cleaned a barrel over night, then filled it again, but with the rifle turned upside down...Nothing. Happily, the foam cleans the entire surface.
They have an Accelerator, to make the product work a lot faster. Good luck. I've not seen that it does anything.
I'm not familiar with KG products. One of the last ones I tried that really had some merit was Bore Tech's Eliminator. Its an aggressive copper remover. I also wasted $9.00 on a bottle of Hoppes Elite cleaner, which is supposed to "clean to the pores", etc. Again, limited testing, but it looks like a waste of money. Tried it on carbon, copper, and lead, and can't say that it was effective on any of them. Supposedly, it will remove all of those.
They have an Accelerator, to make the product work a lot faster. Good luck. I've not seen that it does anything.
I'm not familiar with KG products. One of the last ones I tried that really had some merit was Bore Tech's Eliminator. Its an aggressive copper remover. I also wasted $9.00 on a bottle of Hoppes Elite cleaner, which is supposed to "clean to the pores", etc. Again, limited testing, but it looks like a waste of money. Tried it on carbon, copper, and lead, and can't say that it was effective on any of them. Supposedly, it will remove all of those.
Some of the things that I take into consideration when cleaning my rifles.
I always use a bore guide that properly fits the chamber.
I always use a brush that is recommended for the bore.
And,(here's somthing taught me a few years ago) I never, never pull the brush back once it clears the muzzle.
As pointed out previously, it could cause damage to the
crown.
I unscrew the brush, pull the cleaning rod back through
the barrel, wipe the rod, clean the brush, reattach and repeat this process until I feel the bore to be clean enough to run patches through.
A good quality cleaning rod, one that won't scratch or
harm the bore is a good idea too.
Ya'll peoples have a great day.
I always use a bore guide that properly fits the chamber.
I always use a brush that is recommended for the bore.
And,(here's somthing taught me a few years ago) I never, never pull the brush back once it clears the muzzle.
As pointed out previously, it could cause damage to the
crown.
I unscrew the brush, pull the cleaning rod back through
the barrel, wipe the rod, clean the brush, reattach and repeat this process until I feel the bore to be clean enough to run patches through.
A good quality cleaning rod, one that won't scratch or
harm the bore is a good idea too.
Ya'll peoples have a great day.
Linefinder
New member
Quote:
Right. Wipe Out is slow. Another idea crept into my head: maybe the foam gravitates to the bottom of the barrel, leaving it squeaky clean... but what about the top? So, I cleaned a barrel over night, then filled it again, but with the rifle turned upside down...Nothing. Happily, the foam cleans the entire surface.
They have an Accelerator, to make the product work a lot faster. Good luck. I've not seen that it does anything.
I'm not familiar with KG products.
The good news is that the foam is just the "carrier" for the cleaning agents in WipeOut. It expands into all the crevices, pushing the cleaners into places you couldn't get to even with a bore brush. As the foam dissapates, the residue left behind (somewhat sticky) stays in place and does it's thing.
I've not found Accelerator to speed up the process, either. But.....it sure does smell good...LOL.
The only reliable way I've found to get KG Industries products is to order them direct. You can google them and order online. They are, without a doubt, the best products I've ever used with the exception of WipeOut. They are a whole lot faster than WipeOut, though..
Hope this helps.
Mike
Right. Wipe Out is slow. Another idea crept into my head: maybe the foam gravitates to the bottom of the barrel, leaving it squeaky clean... but what about the top? So, I cleaned a barrel over night, then filled it again, but with the rifle turned upside down...Nothing. Happily, the foam cleans the entire surface.
They have an Accelerator, to make the product work a lot faster. Good luck. I've not seen that it does anything.
I'm not familiar with KG products.
The good news is that the foam is just the "carrier" for the cleaning agents in WipeOut. It expands into all the crevices, pushing the cleaners into places you couldn't get to even with a bore brush. As the foam dissapates, the residue left behind (somewhat sticky) stays in place and does it's thing.
I've not found Accelerator to speed up the process, either. But.....it sure does smell good...LOL.
The only reliable way I've found to get KG Industries products is to order them direct. You can google them and order online. They are, without a doubt, the best products I've ever used with the exception of WipeOut. They are a whole lot faster than WipeOut, though..
Hope this helps.
Mike
speedkills
New member
I push everything in one direction! Kroil and JB bore paste.
I'ts kind of a pain in the [beeep], but a bullet goes out one way!
The stuff that follows should be the same. I NEVER drag a brush towards myself but I'm kind of anal!
Enough fellow's have already talked about BG's.
When you paste, use a worn out bore brush, wrap a patch around it with paste and push it out 5 times min.
If you don't see that funny looking copper stuff on the end of yous pushes, it's clean!
If not repeat!
NEVER CLEAN FROM THE MUZZLE! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
I'ts kind of a pain in the [beeep], but a bullet goes out one way!
The stuff that follows should be the same. I NEVER drag a brush towards myself but I'm kind of anal!
Enough fellow's have already talked about BG's.
When you paste, use a worn out bore brush, wrap a patch around it with paste and push it out 5 times min.
If you don't see that funny looking copper stuff on the end of yous pushes, it's clean!
If not repeat!
NEVER CLEAN FROM THE MUZZLE! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smiliesmack.gif
EddieHarren
New member
To each his own on brushing technique but, I've been shooting BR for 20 years and have always pulled my brushes back through the barrel. If done carefully and gently there will be no damage to the crown. There will be more damage to the crown by allowing the rod to protrude too far through the muzzle, then laying on the bottom of the bore as it is retracted. JMHO