barrel cut & recrowned

bushfox25

New member
Anyone have any idea the average cost of having a barrel cut down and recrowned? I know the cost will differ but just wondering if anyone has had it done and the cost.
 
It makes a big difference according to what you drop off at the smiths. A complete rifle will cost about twice what a bare barreled action will cost. You can remove the stock, trigger, scope and mounts or pay the smith to do it.

Jack
 
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Or....if you can make a straight cut with a hacksaw,good at touch up with a finish file,and have a dremel tool handy, you can do it for a little bit of nothing:)
 
If any of my barrels are soft enough to be acurately cut with a dremel,,, I need to replace them /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Chili

I used to do that sporterizing old mil-surp rifles. Cut them with a hacksaw bevel the outside edges, smooth the face with a finish file, counter sink them with a shallow countersink and finish the inside edge with valve grinding compound on various sized ball bearings with a shaft silver solderred to them so I could chuck them up in a drill. Most shot better than when I started none shoot worse. That was in the days when you could go in a gunshop and there was a barrel in the corner with a bunch of old mauser, 1917 enfields and whatever for $20 ea.
AWS
 
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I pretty much ringed the barrel with a pipe cutter, used a hacksaw, then a draw file, then touched up the crown with a mandrel and cutter from Brownells. Took my 223 barrel down from 24" to 22". It shoots just as good as the factory Weatherby barrel did before the hack job. Less than MOA. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I'm thinking of taking it down to 20", but wanted to experiment a little, incase I had to take it to a gunsmith and get a professional job down. But he takes about 4-6 months to get stuff done.
 
my smith charges quite a big more to do a cut and crown because normally he pulls the barrel and puts it in his lath, he puts a mirror absolutely straight crown on though
 
You got it DWS, ole Eddie thought I was kidding, but Ive done a bunch of them just like that. I just finished a Remington 722, chambered in 300 H&H magnum for a guy. It had a gawd awful looking Herters muzzle brake on it, and was threaded. I cut off an inch, and did just like you have on those sporters, turned out so nice, a guy was hard pressed to tell it wasn't a factory muzzle. It shot very well too, I might add.
 
ChileRojo,
You can equal a factory crown and even improve on a bad factory crown that way. But it is not in the same class as a crown cut with a barrel well centered in a lathe.

Jack
 
steve garrett,
Your smith should look into a lathe with a big enough hole in the headstock so there is no need to pull the barrel. Not that pulling a barrel is a big deal, unless you have to make a bushing to fit the barrel. Even then you are only looking at 15 minutes.

Jack
 
Well; yes, and no Jack. Certainly not as attractive or precise looking, but if done correctly,and there are no burrs or nicks, one would never know the difference in the shooting.
Ross Seyfried scribbled an article long ago pertaining to the poor boys method of cleaning up a muzzle. He used a long spitzer bullet of same caliber, chucked it up in an electric drill, smeared some Clover compound on it, and touched up the bore.
That bullet coming down the bore, doesn't know the difference from a custom C-note crown job, or a bullet spun in the bore with Clover compound, as long as the bore is free of any microscopic burrs or dings.
I like a nice, clean,precise looking crown job as well as the next gun nut, but there are other ways to skin a cat, if a guy is operating on the cheap.
 
i just had 1" taken off and recrowned on my a3-03 springfield and the smith charged me $35. man it looks so much better with those grooves for a front sight gone.
 


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