Barrel Length For A Suppressor

J

jpr423

New member
I'm considering another coyote rig build in either 22-250 or 22 creedmoor. I currently don't hunt with a suppressor but am tossing around the idea of it in the future. I'm planning to build this rifle with a 22'' barrel, but i'm not sure if that's going to be too long if I ever add a suppressor. If I go to 18'' or 20'' it's going to be very short without a suppressor.

I know this really boils down to personal preference, but what has everyone found as a good mix? Shots are going to mainly be 0-300 with 400 yards max
 
My bolt gun 22-250 I had chopped from 24 down to 18 and run it suppressed. For me, the only downside is even with a can on it's still fairly loud-ish and right at the level where shooting it once or twice isn't bad but much more than that and I'd definitely be looking for something to stick in my ears.

Certainly not apples to apples but I can shoot my 22in 223AI all day long with no ear plugs but it's also using a lot less powder too.
 
I run my custom barreled 22-250 @ 21 3/4". I have a 20p AR 22" suppressed, still ok. Now a 24" suppressed 30 cal out hunting off a quad was long looking and handling. It was fine hiking with a pack. The Houston warehouse studies found 21.75 most accurate length, so I went with it. Both 22-250 extremely(insanely accurate) hand loads and multiple factory(Lilja rem varmint contour 1/12).
 
Once you have a can, you will rarely if ever shoot that gun unsuppressed.
My cans fit on several host weapons. All are sighted in for use with the can.
If I shoot unsuppressed, I use a different gun that never gets used with a suppressor.
 
If you don't own a can, I would just build the rifle and enjoy it. You can always thread the barrel as a "future measure."

4" of barrel length can and will make a difference. In my experience, the shorter barrels tend to "jump" when you fire the rifle. They are also louder. Add some variables like barrel thickness and you will also notice a difference in the report.

I don't find that there is an "optimal" length, but rather the length that you "prefer." You really need time on the rifle to get a feel for it.


TC
 
I have barrels from 16" to 26" with cans. Sure they get long, but it has never inhibited my ability to kill something.
 
I have a Tikka 22-250 cut down to 18", a 20 practical at 18", I love em. Have a 16 and an 18" AR15 uppers that I am messing with now also. My non-supressed rifles are 22 and 24" mostly.
 
Here is my 22-250AI with a 20" barrel. I only run it suppressed now and never feel it's too long. I will reiterate what others have said as I believe you have gotten good advice. If you already don't own the suppressor, build the rifle like you want it. When you get the suppressor, decide then if you want to chop the barrel. Cutting a few inches off is no big deal when you have it threaded. Wishing it was longer when the suppressor arrives is another story!


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Originally Posted By: jpr423I'm considering another coyote rig build in either 22-250 or 22 creedmoor. I currently don't hunt with a suppressor but am tossing around the idea of it in the future. I'm planning to build this rifle with a 22'' barrel, but i'm not sure if that's going to be too long if I ever add a suppressor. If I go to 18'' or 20'' it's going to be very short without a suppressor.

I know this really boils down to personal preference, but what has everyone found as a good mix? Shots are going to mainly be 0-300 with 400 yards max

18" is a very solid performing barrel length that we've found works best over the past 20 years.

I remember so many guys getting butt hurt over us cutting barrels off before anyone thought to run a can, now it's a factory standard, and it stands to reason.

On a 250 with an 18" barrel running 50 grain rounds, using a 100M ZR0, you will have a MPBR out to "about" 250, then you'll need to use hold or dial from there up, at 300 you'll need a 2 min hold, and 400 roughly a 4 min hold, or 1.4 mil adjustment, which is easy peasy.

Long story short, go 18" thank me later.
 
Playing around with the JBM Balistic chart, I am shooting a 16" AR w/suppressor, 60gr VMAX @ 3000 FPS.

If I run a 175yd Zero because the scope sits about 2.6" above the bore I can aim dead on from 50 yds to 200 and stay with a 1" radius. If I go with a 200 yd zero it shows me almost 1.5" high at 125 yds. Most of my shots are under 200 anyways. I can dial up for anything after that. 300yds is .9 Mil and 400 yds is 1.8 Mil. Prolly won't shoot that far but I do bang steel at the Rifle range for fun at those distances.

If I run my 50gr Nosler load at 3300fps, 200yrd zero takes me to 225yds and under an inch

If you go with a 22-250 and lighter bullets like Skinny says you are flatter shoot'n.

Anyways just playing with numbers.
 
Originally Posted By: CoyotejunkiPlaying around with the JBM Balistic chart, I am shooting a 16" AR w/suppressor, 60gr VMAX @ 3000 FPS.

If I run a 175yd Zero because the scope sits about 2.6" above the bore I can aim dead on from 50 yds to 200 and stay with a 1" radius. If I go with a 200 yd zero it shows me almost 1.5" high at 125 yds. Most of my shots are under 200 anyways. I can dial up for anything after that. 300yds is .9 Mil and 400 yds is 1.8 Mil. Prolly won't shoot that far but I do bang steel at the Rifle range for fun at those distances.

If I run my 50gr Nosler load at 3300fps, 200yrd zero takes me to 225yds and under an inch

If you go with a 22-250 and lighter bullets like Skinny says you are flatter shoot'n.

Anyways just playing with numbers.


CJ,

What type of gun powder are you using to get 60's going 3000 out of a 16????
 
Originally Posted By: skinney
18" is a very solid performing barrel length that we've found works best over the past 20 years.

Long story short, go 18" thank me later.

When I had my 22-250 chopped down and threaded I hemmed and hawed about whether or not I really wanted to go all the way down to 18, was thinking maybe 20 or even 22. My smith, who I've known for a long time now and has no problem breaking my balls told me to quit being such a, insert another word for cat, and cut the dam thing to 18 and be done with it and I could thank him later. Like skinney, he was 100% right and I'm glad I listened to him.
 
Originally Posted By: CoyotejunkiLooking at your post Skinny, I am going to have to clock my 50's and find the drop for my 22-250. Always food for thought!

I honestly don't even mess around chronoing my close range rigs, anything from 0-400 I just shoot, and record impact at my given distances. If I'm just genuinely interested then I'll Chrono. On my mid to ELR I chrono for sure, just to get me at a starting point b4 I start tweaking ballistics.



Originally Posted By: B23

When I had my 22-250 chopped down and threaded I hemmed and hawed about whether or not I really wanted to go all the way down to 18, was thinking maybe 20 or even 22. My smith, who I've known for a long time now and has no problem breaking my balls told me to quit being such a, insert another word for cat, and cut the dam thing to 18 and be done with it and I could thank him later. Like skinney, he was 100% right and I'm glad I listened to him.

ANNNNNNNNNNNNND... BOOM!
 
My suppressor rides on a Tikka T3x. I hunt in both the wide open West, and thick timber in the South. I ain’t chopping no barrel off.
 
Originally Posted By: arlaunch
CJ,

What type of gun powder are you using to get 60's going 3000 out of a 16????

I may have misspoke. I am using H4895. I looked at the numbers on Hodgdons reloading info page, and looked at my drops at 100, 200yds, and made my calculation. I didn't actually measure using a calibrated chrono. So my numbers could probably be high/wrong.
 
I've got one of the (5yrs ago cheap)Savage 12 rifles in .22-250 with a 26" heavy barrel and have been wondering what I'd do with it. After B23 and seeing a few of Skinney's videos I'll probably chop it since that was my gut feeling anyway.

Skinney, I'm pretty sure you guys run a faster twist for 62 gr. bullets.

B23, care to PM me what you run?

JP, sorry if I hijacked your info.
 
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