Bdc scopes
- Thread starter TREXX
- Start date
BDC scopes have markings that represent known radians between the dots or marks at a certain magnification. With this info and knowledge of your target size you can calculate distance. Myself I am not mathmatically proficient enough to make these calculations before the varmint has vacated the area. I shoot each bdc scope I have on paper out to 600 yds and and record the magnification and yardage on a index card taped to the stock for quick reference. I use a range finder for the range whenever possible. The important thing is to remember that if you have a variable scope and you change the power setting the distance between the dots changes resulting in greater or lesser hold over unless everything is in the same focal plane. Whatever scope you decide on you will need to verify the ranging compensation of the markings at the range with your particular rifle and ammunition combo.
I guess what I am trying to say in my long winded way is that yes they are very useful but you need to put in the range time to familiarize yourself with the setup beyond just zeroing at a 100 yds and then going to the field expecting to make consistent +300 yd shots.
I guess what I am trying to say in my long winded way is that yes they are very useful but you need to put in the range time to familiarize yourself with the setup beyond just zeroing at a 100 yds and then going to the field expecting to make consistent +300 yd shots.
jdp3
New member
I agree with TroyR.... they are great but you really need to find the round your gun likes and then shoot to determine where those dots/lines/bubbles sit in reference to your caliber/load etc.... I have heard guys figure it our and then shrink it down and tape it to the inside of their lens caps.
Hangtime
New member
Originally Posted By: TREXXHow well does a bullet drop compensated scope work ,assuming your using the right ammo(I don't reload) and everything is set up right?Anybody try the Nikon coyote scope or the Springfield Armory bdc ?Thanks for any info guys.
TREXX,
On the Springfield Armory, are you talking about the ones they quit making several years ago, with their own patented BDC reticle?
I have 3 scopes, all with BDC's.
1. Springfield Armory 4-14 X 40 Govt. Tactical Model.
2. Leupold VX 111. 6.5 - 20 X 40 Long Range, with VH reticle.
3. Vortex Viper 6.5 - 20 X 44 Dead-Hold BDC reticle
My all around favorite is the Springfield, all because of the reticle. Springfield made 3 generations of this scope. They put out a bad batch of scopes (don't know which gen.), and the scope started getting a bad reputation, and Springfield quit selling scopes shortly there after. The reticle is so good makes it kind of a point and shoot scope. If you can find a good one for a good price, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. HOWEVER, I would take it to the range and really wring it out, with a complete 100% customer satisfaction gaurantee, with full refund if you're not happy. I've owned this scope for over 10 years, and only had one little problem, which I fixed myself. I wouldn't shoot anything more powerful than 5.56. I've killed 100's and 100's of prairie dogs with this rig on the most basic, cheapest J&T upper they sold at the time. I think I paid around $300.00 for the kit, using a Bushie lower.
My second all around favorite is the Leupold. What can you say, it's a Leupold. However I don't like the VH reticle nearly as well as the Springfield, which wins hands down, no contest. Like I said above, otherwise it's typical Leupold quality. The only reason I bought this scope is because the glass on the Springfield maxed out at 500 yds., and I wanted something to get me past 500 yds.
My purchase of the Vortex Viper is fairly recent, so I can't comment too much about it. It's a real heavy duty build, and it looks like it will take anything you can throw at it. Glass is extremely good. I wouldn't put this scope on anything that doesn't have at least a 20" barrel. It's just too much scope for carbines, etc. I know this from experience, because I put it on a carbine I had laying around, and it's a handful.
Hope this info helps in your decision making. Let us know what you end up with.
Hangtime
TREXX,
On the Springfield Armory, are you talking about the ones they quit making several years ago, with their own patented BDC reticle?
I have 3 scopes, all with BDC's.
1. Springfield Armory 4-14 X 40 Govt. Tactical Model.
2. Leupold VX 111. 6.5 - 20 X 40 Long Range, with VH reticle.
3. Vortex Viper 6.5 - 20 X 44 Dead-Hold BDC reticle
My all around favorite is the Springfield, all because of the reticle. Springfield made 3 generations of this scope. They put out a bad batch of scopes (don't know which gen.), and the scope started getting a bad reputation, and Springfield quit selling scopes shortly there after. The reticle is so good makes it kind of a point and shoot scope. If you can find a good one for a good price, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. HOWEVER, I would take it to the range and really wring it out, with a complete 100% customer satisfaction gaurantee, with full refund if you're not happy. I've owned this scope for over 10 years, and only had one little problem, which I fixed myself. I wouldn't shoot anything more powerful than 5.56. I've killed 100's and 100's of prairie dogs with this rig on the most basic, cheapest J&T upper they sold at the time. I think I paid around $300.00 for the kit, using a Bushie lower.
My second all around favorite is the Leupold. What can you say, it's a Leupold. However I don't like the VH reticle nearly as well as the Springfield, which wins hands down, no contest. Like I said above, otherwise it's typical Leupold quality. The only reason I bought this scope is because the glass on the Springfield maxed out at 500 yds., and I wanted something to get me past 500 yds.
My purchase of the Vortex Viper is fairly recent, so I can't comment too much about it. It's a real heavy duty build, and it looks like it will take anything you can throw at it. Glass is extremely good. I wouldn't put this scope on anything that doesn't have at least a 20" barrel. It's just too much scope for carbines, etc. I know this from experience, because I put it on a carbine I had laying around, and it's a handful.
Hope this info helps in your decision making. Let us know what you end up with.
Hangtime
I also use ballistic and rangefinding reticles for downrange zeroing and rangefinding. I prefer tree-style reticles like VH, Rapid Reticle and Zeiss Rapid-Z's, for downrange zeroing due to the more direct system of windage reference. Look at the AR pics post above and u'll see the 22 Long Rifle Rapid Reticle that i adapted for use with my .223 AI AR (the last pic.).
The best places to study this stuff (reticle subtension vs. trajectory vs. downrange zeroing) is the Tech page for the Burris ballistic reticles, and here--
www.ottllc.com/specialtypistols/sp20.pdf
Here's a couple pics of my system for applying Darrell Holland's Ultimate Mil Reticle for my load. The 1st is downrange zeroing in straight mils (in the Butler Creek ocular cover). The second is reticle rangefinding (using a 1/2 mil system) on an 11" back to brisket coyote (this in the Butler Creek Blizzard objective cover).
The best places to study this stuff (reticle subtension vs. trajectory vs. downrange zeroing) is the Tech page for the Burris ballistic reticles, and here--
www.ottllc.com/specialtypistols/sp20.pdf
Here's a couple pics of my system for applying Darrell Holland's Ultimate Mil Reticle for my load. The 1st is downrange zeroing in straight mils (in the Butler Creek ocular cover). The second is reticle rangefinding (using a 1/2 mil system) on an 11" back to brisket coyote (this in the Butler Creek Blizzard objective cover).
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reddog964
New member
NM_HighPlains
New member
Originally Posted By: TREXXHow well does a bullet drop compensated scope work ,assuming your using the right ammo(I don't reload) and everything is set up right?Anybody try the Nikon coyote scope or the Springfield Armory bdc ?Thanks for any info guys.
I guess it depends on what you're using it for. My coyote gun has mil-dots and so I sighted in where the cross hairs are 100 and sure 'nuff, the 1st dot was 200, and so on. However, what I found out is that I tended to spend more time on range estimation since I have to decide what dot to use and consequently, I missed some shots by shooting over (?) them. It's also a little hard to pick out those dots against a field background. So, I went back to the old standby of a little high at 100, dead on at 250-ish, and so on. Target work says the crosshair on the back of a coyote is good for about 350 yards and that's really as far as I want to throw a 50 gr V-Max out of my .223 anyway. So, if he's "close", I aim dead-on and if he's "out there", I put the crosshairs on his back. Hit or miss.
Now, for p-dogs or something like that... different story. I love mil-dots or BDC in that situation. But that's a whole different kind of shooting.
I guess it depends on what you're using it for. My coyote gun has mil-dots and so I sighted in where the cross hairs are 100 and sure 'nuff, the 1st dot was 200, and so on. However, what I found out is that I tended to spend more time on range estimation since I have to decide what dot to use and consequently, I missed some shots by shooting over (?) them. It's also a little hard to pick out those dots against a field background. So, I went back to the old standby of a little high at 100, dead on at 250-ish, and so on. Target work says the crosshair on the back of a coyote is good for about 350 yards and that's really as far as I want to throw a 50 gr V-Max out of my .223 anyway. So, if he's "close", I aim dead-on and if he's "out there", I put the crosshairs on his back. Hit or miss.
Now, for p-dogs or something like that... different story. I love mil-dots or BDC in that situation. But that's a whole different kind of shooting.
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