Best Paint for gun plastic?

Chris_Brice

Chris_Brice

New member
I have a Ruger MKII 22/45 that I'm wanting to paint the grip frame on. I've done the krylon thing in the past on long guns and it doesn't have near the longevity I require for this project. So whats the best I can do. Don't care if it takes a while to dry, requires some heating (heat lamps? Remember it's plastic) or if it is toxic as all get out
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but I want it to be durable. Very durable .Also don't know if this counts for anything but I don't want a rubbery feel either.

Thanks much,
CB
 
Chris,

scuff the parts with some sandpaper or a dremel tool and wire brush. Then use the a flat all surface, or universal paint as a primer. It will hold better and chip less than your standars spray paint. Good luck
 
The fusion paints stick well. So does that rustolem universal stuff. Get some and apply light coats. Then cover with matte clear.
 
I agree Krylon fusion and matte clear coat. Its the best combination Ive found. I have done around 40 como, spider web paint jobs for guys now and zero complaints so it must be holding up well. Mine show no usage signs yet.
 
Ya know, this thread should have been started before I painted my Savage tonight
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I did rough it up, clean it and not handle it before painting. Used Krylon indoor/outdoor textured paint.

Used it before on wood stocks, shot clear over it, worked very well.

Did camo paint the Savage last week, but some chipped off and I just made a kydex cheepiece for it so scuffed it some more and decided to change the color.

Can says to recoat in 1 hr or wait 48 hrs. I'm going by the book on this one, to see if it does make a difference.

It's sitting by my PC right now and man the urge to handle it, shoot more paint........is a bit much.

Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!
 
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Cerakote adheres surprisingly well to plastic when it's prepped properly. I did the stock on my AR 2 years ago and had mild scratches on a couple corners. The problem with rattle can paint is that the oil from your face or hands will eventually start to break it down, and it will be come sticky and not fun to hold onto.
 
I've used Fusion Plstic spray paints on several NEF plastic stocks. After about 2 years of use on my fav 6mmBR it is still hard, relatively easy to clean, and fairly scratch resistant. I am one "oily" dude and oil/dirt builds up one ANYTHING/EVERYTHING I touch. I am happy with how Fusion has worked.

I've also used Aluma-Hyde on several wood and plastic stocks, receiver/barrels/bolts/scopes and aluminum parts. It also works great, but everything gets dinged up so you need to touch up every now and then.

I will be trying Cerakote on my new projects when I can get the right colors...the exotic colors look so cool...purple, yellow, blue, red...if my 220 Swift project won't take the rats out, the colors will scare them to death. Hahahaha

Luck
 
3 coats of clear over the Krylon, couldn't wait. Did learn a while back if using the textured to keep it thin, as a buildup will compress (like where bipods attach) and leave a shiny spot.

I usually have a camo scheme that incorporates black, so any scratches on synth stocks get left alone, just adds more "pattern".

Used to tape stuff off, do neat tiger stripe stuff and other....now that I'm older and more lazy I just fog it, darkest next to lightest. Good enough for who it's for
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Has anybody tried it with Plasti Dip spray? I like the feel of it on the (metal) tools I've sprayed it on, but I'm not entirely sure how it'd work with a synthetic stock.
 
I have used Brownells alumahyde II on a shotgun but only on the metal and it is holding up AWESOME. I have never used it on plastic but Brownells recommends it for painting gun stocks so it might be worth a shot.

Shelton
 
I spray Cerakote on plastic all the time. On Glock frames I use the thermal cure and bake for 3 hours at 175 degrees. Or you can use the air cure Cerakote too. It is good, but the thermal cure is better.
 


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