Best way to mount a light without throwing off POI

K

kel

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We have 100 threads about different lights. Let's try to get some information in one spot for how to best mount them. I've used several different lights and mounted them a couple of different ways but each time I see a shift in poi from when the lights are mounted to the scope.

I want to mount a light and not have to worry about poi shifting. And I want to take it off without worrying about poi shifting.

Skypup has a great solution from what I've seen although it's getting on the pricey side for me.

I'd like to hear what everyone has been doing because I need to make a change.
 
My experience is: 1) Don't mount a light to a rifle barrel, as it will shift the POA and degrade accuracy; 2) Install light mounts between the scope mounts - not outside of the scope mounts.
 
I'm finding that even between the scope mounts is causing some fluctuations. Skypup uses rings with a rail incorporated on the top of them so the weight is attached to the ring itself. Maybe he will chime in with some info.

When I mounted in front of the rear ring I noticed a 3 inch drop dead center. When I mounted just behind the forward ring I didn't get the drop but shifted 1" to the left. I need to be dead on whether I hang a light on or not.

I think Skypup's setup is probably close to $100 by the time it's all complete but maybe that is what it will cost to get a solid mount that doesn't change.
 
I run Nikon Prostaffs on my AR and my H&R 223. The H&R is mounted between the rings and works fine. The AR has rails on handguard and the Burris PEPR mount so no issue there.

I've mounted plenty of different lights in different places over the years to these scopes and no problems, perhaps it's scope related also????
 
Originally Posted By: PacecarMy experience is: 1) Don't mount a light to a rifle barrel, as it will shift the POA and degrade accuracy; 2) Install light mounts between the scope mounts - not outside of the scope mounts.

The only way that you can successfully mount powerful LED lights on your scope like I have is to be sure that you also have a scope tube extender to make certain that your LED lights are BEHIND your scope tube extension and you have nothing else protruding up (like a high front sight or something else on the rail out in front of your scope), because if you do NOT have the scope extender, you will experience tremendous spill and flashback from the high power lights in your field of view, negating the entire setup....

Also, my setup does NOT affect accuracy in any way shape or form, same POA=POI....

Top.jpg


100 yards, handloaded Hornady 75 grain BTHP, one cold shot and four hot ones:

target_223_75g.jpg



Here is what I am talking about, the setup below does NOT work, too much spill and flash enters your field of view with this Leopold VR 1-4X Pig Plex scope because I cannot find a small enough threaded extender tube for the 32mm thread...

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However, the same Olight M-20 Crimson Red Led mounted out at the end of the barrel on a small picitanny rail works perfect:

Olight%20M20.jpg


Here is both the Olight M-20 Crimson Red Led and Olight M3-X with Green Filter mounted correctly on one of my SIGs:
556%20LED%20Top.jpg


If you use the Picitanny Scope Ring Mounts, be sure to get a scope extender tube....
 
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Skypup I've always thought the opposite, get your light in front of the scope. My AR is setup on the handguard, but my singleshot is just in front of the bell. I'm going to play around with that one.
 
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pmack, it took me awhile experimenting to get things worked out on my varmint-predator hunting rifles.

I have not tried it, but perhaps a Halo Shield on the LED Lights like the one from Boondocks would prevent the heavy spill and flashback if not using a scope extension tube?

I don't know if that would work or not as I have not tried that combo yet, but the setup I have on my Thompson Center Contender pictured above is downright murderous awesome at night, and everyone that has tried it out has said the same thing!!!
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This setup also works perfect on both my SIG 556s:

556%20LED%20Top%20Front.jpg


I could not mount either of these lights on top of the scope picitanny rail as there was too much spill over into the scope field of view and I could not locate a tube extension from Leopold for this smaller diameter scope.
 
So let me get this straight. SkyPup, you use a set of rings with the rail built into the top. Now to mount the light are you using a quick release scope mount ring that sized to fit the light on top of the rail? You would just need to order the height ring to allow the light to clear the top of the bell? I'm using a predator pack from Jeremiah and like it and it came with the halo shield. Just looking for a different way to mount the 250.

I've got a Redfield Revolution mounted on the .22 mag. Don't know if maybe it's tube is a bit thinner than the Prostaff allowing flex. I have a Prostaff on my 22-250 so I guess I could try switching them out if needed. I would think that SkyPup's way of having it mount onto the ring would keep all of the weight and flex on the sturdiest part of the assembly.
 
I am using a set of rings with the rail built into the top.

I use Burris XTR Rings but you could use these as they are cheaper:

http://www.amazon.com/T-M-S-Tactical-Sco...5034&sr=8-4

I am also using a scope mount ring that is sized to fit the light on top of the rail.

Yes, most tactical LED flashlights are approximately 7/8"-1" in diameter, including the KLR-250, KLR-100, Olight M-20 Crimson, Olight M3-X, and many others, I use these:

http://www.amazon.com/TACTICAL-JETBeam-JET-III-Diameter-Flashlight/dp/B002ZYRV2E/ref=pd_sim_sg_6

Yes, you can put various riser blocks on the scope ring picitanny rail mounts per your desire:

http://www.amazon.com/UTG-Profile-Riser-Mount-slots/dp/B003TWX87S/ref=acc_glance_sg_ai_ps_t_2
 
EWT Has those adjustable mounts for sale a clone or same thing. Anyone using them ? I feel a rail mount system is the best. Could you get your cross hairs on target get your mounting system on and slowly tighten it to see if they move find that point of how tight you can go ?
 
I used to have one mounted on a M4 AR Carbine, just for low light visibility...

CMMGM4Repainta.jpg


While not mounted in this picture, you can see the mounting ring below the forearm tube..

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In the top photo, I made a mounting bracket that fit in the front sight post and held the flashlight to the left side to allow switch activation with my weak hand thumb..

Neither had any effect on point of aim...
 
I mount mine on the barrel. Put a piece of moleskin on the mounts and hand tighten. It only has to be slightly snug with the moleskin. The light won't move and I have had absolutely no problems with poi. Shoots exactly the same with or without the light mounted.
 
Here is a picture of my setup. I use the A.R.M.S quick release rings for the scope as well as my Olight flashlight. I had to buy the optional picatinny rail for the top of one ring though. As some said before me as long as you find a picatinny rail a lot of the one inch mounts fit most flashlight tubes. I have tryed many "thrower lights" like Deerelight and Wolf-Eyes but prefer the overall beam pattern of my Olight.
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I personally have never had any POI shifts on any rifle that I put a light on. I just mount it on the scope. This is to include the use of a big ole Light Force 170.
 
Sometimes when you put the scope rings or light clamps too close to the parallax adjustments or Wind/ele knobs you can crush them and cause the scope to be off. I recommend always a fingers width away.
 


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