PredNewb96
New member
Does anyone know of any existing bipods that would in someway be compatible with a Marlin 30AS
Bipod for a Marlin?
- Thread starter PredNewb96
- Start date
Originally Posted By: NdIndyAny bipod that attaches to a swivel stud.
And if you don't already have a front swivel stud, I think Uncle Mikes make one that fits around your magazine without installing in the forend that you could put a Harris-type bipod on. I assume you are looking for bipod to mount to your gun.
And if you don't already have a front swivel stud, I think Uncle Mikes make one that fits around your magazine without installing in the forend that you could put a Harris-type bipod on. I assume you are looking for bipod to mount to your gun.
Varminterror
New member
The problem with the 30A, like most of the Marlin models, is that they DON'T USUALLY HAVE A SWIVEL STUD ON THE FOREND!!! Whether they're a clamp-on mag tube type (usually aftermarket) or mounted on the forend tip, the Marlins just don't offer a level surface around their swivel studs that would allow you to mount a bipod.
If you have the clamp-on mag tube mounted swivel stud, you can usually slide it forward to make room for the bipod, but there isn't enough tube diameter for it to be stable.
If you have a forend cap mounted swivel stud, it's not level from the barrel to the forend cap to the forend wood, so the bipod will mount, but the legs angle forward severely, and hit the muzzle when folded...
So, what's a guy to do?
MAKE A SHIM!!!! (Or send me a PM and we can figure out how to get you one) The pictures below are of one of my rifles and shims for a forend tip mounted version, but the same idea works for adding stability to the bipod even for a mag-tube mounted swivel stud. For mag tube style, I add spacers to leave a relief for the swivel clamp, and build a "trough" that blends the small diameter of the mag tube to the flatter shape of the bipod mounting frame. You can see how the trough in the top of my shim has a tight curve to fit the mag tube, but the bottom of the shim is rather flat to mate up to the bipod. I accomplish that by skiving the intermediate layers of leather down to make wedged shims.
Here's a picture of one of my Marlins with one of the shims I've made and a knock off harris copy bipod.
This particular shim is made from leather, but I have done them from plastic block as well. The advantage of the leather is that it's non-marring to the finish, and remains flexible enough to avoid breakage, but rigid enough to provide a solid platform.
If you have the clamp-on mag tube mounted swivel stud, you can usually slide it forward to make room for the bipod, but there isn't enough tube diameter for it to be stable.
If you have a forend cap mounted swivel stud, it's not level from the barrel to the forend cap to the forend wood, so the bipod will mount, but the legs angle forward severely, and hit the muzzle when folded...
So, what's a guy to do?
MAKE A SHIM!!!! (Or send me a PM and we can figure out how to get you one) The pictures below are of one of my rifles and shims for a forend tip mounted version, but the same idea works for adding stability to the bipod even for a mag-tube mounted swivel stud. For mag tube style, I add spacers to leave a relief for the swivel clamp, and build a "trough" that blends the small diameter of the mag tube to the flatter shape of the bipod mounting frame. You can see how the trough in the top of my shim has a tight curve to fit the mag tube, but the bottom of the shim is rather flat to mate up to the bipod. I accomplish that by skiving the intermediate layers of leather down to make wedged shims.
Here's a picture of one of my Marlins with one of the shims I've made and a knock off harris copy bipod.
This particular shim is made from leather, but I have done them from plastic block as well. The advantage of the leather is that it's non-marring to the finish, and remains flexible enough to avoid breakage, but rigid enough to provide a solid platform.
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Varminterror, I have several Marlin Levers that all came new with sling studs on the front barrel band at the front of the forearm. One I had to install the stud on the mag tube right in front of the forearm using the barrel band from Uncle Mikes if I remember. I have used bi-pods on 2 of my Marlins, one on a 336CS 30-30, and the other a 444S from 1976. My 1895GS 45-70 came with the stud on the forearm in 2003
Forgot to add, the rifle that I added the magazine band to was my 1949 336RC 30-30.
Forgot to add, the rifle that I added the magazine band to was my 1949 336RC 30-30.
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Varminterror
New member
Originally Posted By: RiflemannVarminterror, I have several Marlin Levers that all came new with sling studs on the front barrel band at the front of the forearm. One I had to install the stud on the mag tube right in front of the forearm using the barrel band from Uncle Mikes if I remember. I have used bi-pods on 2 of my Marlins, one on a 336CS 30-30, and the other a 444S from 1976. My 1895GS 45-70 came with the stud on the forearm in 2003
Forgot to add, the rifle that I added the magazine band to was my 1949 336RC 30-30.
Maybe I'm reading your post wrong, but I feel like you're just trying to be argumentative. I'm not sure why I'm supposed to care about these details about your rifles, but frankly, your comments echo my own, and my statements stand - most Marlins don't come with a bipod friendly swivel stud on the forend wood. Your statements confirm that - yours have barrel bands, forend cap studs, or you had to add them. Reread my statements - we're in agreement. Marlins don't tend to have bipod friendly swivel studs.
You can mount a bipod to any swivel stud, but that doesn't necessarily make it an ideal set up for stability and function. If you have a mag tube mounted stud, a shim helps stabilize it, if you have a forend cap mounted stud, a shim helps level it.
Really feels like you're trying to argue for the sake of arguing.
Forgot to add, the rifle that I added the magazine band to was my 1949 336RC 30-30.
Maybe I'm reading your post wrong, but I feel like you're just trying to be argumentative. I'm not sure why I'm supposed to care about these details about your rifles, but frankly, your comments echo my own, and my statements stand - most Marlins don't come with a bipod friendly swivel stud on the forend wood. Your statements confirm that - yours have barrel bands, forend cap studs, or you had to add them. Reread my statements - we're in agreement. Marlins don't tend to have bipod friendly swivel studs.
You can mount a bipod to any swivel stud, but that doesn't necessarily make it an ideal set up for stability and function. If you have a mag tube mounted stud, a shim helps stabilize it, if you have a forend cap mounted stud, a shim helps level it.
Really feels like you're trying to argue for the sake of arguing.
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Oh sorry, argueing was not my intention here, I just have several Marlins and was trying to share my experience. I keep up on my Marlin Levers the most since I have owned them for over 40 years. Ya I know most people don't use bi-pods on lever guns, I was shareing what has worked for me real good along with a few specific guns. BTW----Nice 1895 you have pictured, Take Care.
Varminterror
New member
I agree, Indy, a bipod is pretty standard equipment on all of my rifles.
I think it's kinda a sad tradition that most folks don't bipod, or even scope their leverguns. I always figure that my leverguns tend to fly slower and drop more, that means I have less acceptable margin for error in my range finding, and less in my point of aim placement. I suppose most folks don't select a 44mag Marlin levergun for 0-200yrd hunting, or a 45-70 for 0-300yrd hunting, but these big punkin chunkers are more than capable of it! I'm woefully addicted to Marlin leverguns and Ruger revolvers, just something about them that clicks with me.
My cowboy action Marlin's didn't get scopes or bipods, of course, but they certainly get even MORE smithing than my hunters, which get a pretty substantial overhaul themselves.
I think it's kinda a sad tradition that most folks don't bipod, or even scope their leverguns. I always figure that my leverguns tend to fly slower and drop more, that means I have less acceptable margin for error in my range finding, and less in my point of aim placement. I suppose most folks don't select a 44mag Marlin levergun for 0-200yrd hunting, or a 45-70 for 0-300yrd hunting, but these big punkin chunkers are more than capable of it! I'm woefully addicted to Marlin leverguns and Ruger revolvers, just something about them that clicks with me.
My cowboy action Marlin's didn't get scopes or bipods, of course, but they certainly get even MORE smithing than my hunters, which get a pretty substantial overhaul themselves.