Bluing refinish

Dmcgee

New member
I painted a ruger rifle of mine several years ago. Decided to remove the paint. Came off real well. Refinishing the stock in tru oil and it's coming along real well. The bluing is partially removed in places from wear and tear and the chemicals in the paint remover.

I would like to refinish the metal parts myself. What's the best way? I would like a dark finish that's not real shiny. If I have to I will have it cerakoted or parkerized. Any suggestions on bluing at home?
 
I've used Birchwood Casey paste bluing for patching work. It worked well and blended well.

I've used the Blue Wonder kit, it was a nice finish as well.

If you do multiple applications and do not polish between 'coats' it will be a nice deep bluing.

Another DIY finish that can be very nice is Brownell's Alumna-Hyde II. This stuff is tough and resistant to solvents. If you wanted a more subdued finish, that would be the way to go.

If you wanted to send it out, I'd recomend CeraKote over the other options. It seems to be a much tougher coating when properly applied.
 


The finish on most firearms now is called black oxide.
Find a local machine shop or a metal finisher to get some information.

You could call Ruger and see if they would refinish your rifle.
Find a gunsmith he would be able to give you some info and help.
 
Originally Posted By: DANNY-LBrownells oxpho-blue works pretty good also.

Oxpho-blue is the best of the home bluing applications - it is what gunsmiths use - you can get it from Brownell's.
 
Originally Posted By: pahntr760I've used Birchwood Casey paste bluing for patching work. It worked well and blended well.

I've used the Blue Wonder kit, it was a nice finish as well.

If you do multiple applications and do not polish between 'coats' it will be a nice deep bluing.

Another DIY finish that can be very nice is Brownell's Alumna-Hyde II. This stuff is tough and resistant to solvents. If you wanted a more subdued finish, that would be the way to go.

If you wanted to send it out, I'd recomend CeraKote over the other options. It seems to be a much tougher coating when properly applied.

Is there a "go to" cerakote applicator some of you here use? I have one I'm half thinking about doing before I drop it in an MCM this summer. I looked at Cerakote's site, there are some applicators within 2 hrs of me, I think 1 certified applicator. Would you say being certified by cerakote should carry much weight in choosing where to go?
 
There is no cold bluing that you will be happy with. This is mainly because there is no cold bluing that is durable and lasts. The only durable bluing I am aware of that you can do at home is rust blue. Brownell's sells a brand called Belgian Blue and it is the best I have ever used. The only way to get bluing dull is to first bead blast the metal and then hot blue the parts. Parkerizing is gray to black and it is dull and very durable too but not too easy to do at home because of the cost. For what the stainless tank will cost you might well send to somebody. The alloy of steel determines whether it will be light or dark gray or black. Gunkote might be an alternative but the matte black is hard to get flat...a little too much sprayed on and it comes out glossy. Good luck.
 


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