I have a BSA bore sight and as typical BSA, its just a WAG to say the least. If I wanted to replace it, what should I get? I've seen the ones that are caliber specific and chamber like a round and put a dot on the wall and the ones that fit in the end of the barrel and project a dot. I'd like to have one that actually works. Most of the time I pull the bolt and look down the barrel. Crude but it usually gets me there.
Bore Sight
- Thread starter pyscodog
- Start date
AzDiamondHeat
New member
I have used a few and do not like any of them. I do it the "crude" way with a little twist. I shine a laser pen down the bore onto the wall and go from there. One pen works for all calibers.
I am sure the are good ones out there, but I am too cheap to spend money on something I can do simple enough without one. If there wre a cheap one that worked, I might reconsider.
I am sure the are good ones out there, but I am too cheap to spend money on something I can do simple enough without one. If there wre a cheap one that worked, I might reconsider.
Dixiedog1
Active member
I have an older Bushnell "Professional" optic one that goes in the muzzle end with expandable arbors and it does work well on a standard bore height rifle....it doesn't work on something like an AR with a large distance between the bore axis and optic. I also have a laser setup that looks like a cartridge...you put the ".223" laser module in the correct adapter that fits the caliber your bore sighting....it works well but you need to do it as far away as possible.
That being said the crude method works too, if you have a stable way to hold the firearm so it doesn't move that will get you as close as any bore sighter will.
That being said the crude method works too, if you have a stable way to hold the firearm so it doesn't move that will get you as close as any bore sighter will.
crow sniper
New member
I use the leupold magnetic ,it lets you level the scope and check tracking as well
I have a Bushnell collimeter w/arbors, a Leupold magnetic, and a Site Lite green laser. The Leupold is to my knowledge, no longer made. It is great for a quick and reasonably accurate bore sight. The laser is good for making sure you don't shoot your chronograph. The best, if you can only have one is the Bushnell collimeter with arbor. I have a .17 cal spud and an AR 15 offset riser. I don't think most guys realize all you can do with a collimeter. I found this on the 'Net and find it to be absolutely true:
A collimator is an excellent tool for checking the 'scope has not moved or failed between outings, after a knock, or after an unexplained miss.
After you have zeroed the rifle on paper at your preferred range, make a note of the position on the collimator grid. Then whenever you take the rifle out, do a quick check with the collimator.
If the 'scope is still showing the same position on the collimator grid then it is almost certain that the optical zero has not shifted.
But if possible you should still take a test shot, because other things can still shift the zero e.g. moderator on/off/loose, looser or tighter stock bolts, change of ammunition batch, temperature effect on powder etc. etc.
If however the collimator shows a different reading then either the scope has shifted, or the collimator has moved, or both. Most likely you have not inserted the collimator into the barrel correctly, or a bit of dirt has shifted the pin slightly. Check and retry. If its still out, you must test on a target.
The collimator is also a useful tool for many other reasons. Here are just a few:
Adjust scope to get first shot somewhere on paper. Easier than boresighting for small calibres, or when you can't squint up the bore, e.g. semiautos, air rifles etc. You may find boresight isn't quite the same as centre of grid, but once you know the offset its usually repeatable between rifles.
Find out limits of adjustment of turrets i.e. wind turrets until reticle stops moving against collimator grid and note position.
Test repeatability of adjustments by "boxing" the grid and checking return to zero.
Test for smoothness of adjustment of turrets, detect stickiness, or when tapping the turret after adjustment causes shifts, or when turret has to be first backed off, then wound back to be repeatable.
Test for moving zero when altering zoom or parallax.
Test for moving zero when temperature changes e.g. indoors versus outdoors.
Find zoom setting when mildots are true against grid.
Check calibration of turret scales is true.
Centralise scope in adjustable mounts. Find limits of turret adjustment then set to halfway point. Then adjust mounts to bring zero back to the right position on the grid.
Set up vertical mount adjustment to maximise turret elevation adjustment for long range shooting. Same as above, but set vertical turret so it is nearly at lowest point at close range zero.
Check return to zero when using scopes in take-off mounts, and/or switch barrel rifles.
Swap scopes around several rifles and minimise time/ammo to re-zero by noting collimator grid settings for each rifle.
AFAIK most collimators seem to be the same design, and look as if they come from the same factory, varying only in price, not quality. £40 will buy one. Be aware some large diameter scopes in high mounts don't line up very well with the collimator and can make it difficult to see the grid, but I've always managed to use it.
I've also tried laser boresighters that fit in the breech and in the muzzle, and neither seemed of any practical use to me, whereas the optical collimator gives a repeatable quantitative measurement IME.
A collimator is an excellent tool for checking the 'scope has not moved or failed between outings, after a knock, or after an unexplained miss.
After you have zeroed the rifle on paper at your preferred range, make a note of the position on the collimator grid. Then whenever you take the rifle out, do a quick check with the collimator.
If the 'scope is still showing the same position on the collimator grid then it is almost certain that the optical zero has not shifted.
But if possible you should still take a test shot, because other things can still shift the zero e.g. moderator on/off/loose, looser or tighter stock bolts, change of ammunition batch, temperature effect on powder etc. etc.
If however the collimator shows a different reading then either the scope has shifted, or the collimator has moved, or both. Most likely you have not inserted the collimator into the barrel correctly, or a bit of dirt has shifted the pin slightly. Check and retry. If its still out, you must test on a target.
The collimator is also a useful tool for many other reasons. Here are just a few:
Adjust scope to get first shot somewhere on paper. Easier than boresighting for small calibres, or when you can't squint up the bore, e.g. semiautos, air rifles etc. You may find boresight isn't quite the same as centre of grid, but once you know the offset its usually repeatable between rifles.
Find out limits of adjustment of turrets i.e. wind turrets until reticle stops moving against collimator grid and note position.
Test repeatability of adjustments by "boxing" the grid and checking return to zero.
Test for smoothness of adjustment of turrets, detect stickiness, or when tapping the turret after adjustment causes shifts, or when turret has to be first backed off, then wound back to be repeatable.
Test for moving zero when altering zoom or parallax.
Test for moving zero when temperature changes e.g. indoors versus outdoors.
Find zoom setting when mildots are true against grid.
Check calibration of turret scales is true.
Centralise scope in adjustable mounts. Find limits of turret adjustment then set to halfway point. Then adjust mounts to bring zero back to the right position on the grid.
Set up vertical mount adjustment to maximise turret elevation adjustment for long range shooting. Same as above, but set vertical turret so it is nearly at lowest point at close range zero.
Check return to zero when using scopes in take-off mounts, and/or switch barrel rifles.
Swap scopes around several rifles and minimise time/ammo to re-zero by noting collimator grid settings for each rifle.
AFAIK most collimators seem to be the same design, and look as if they come from the same factory, varying only in price, not quality. £40 will buy one. Be aware some large diameter scopes in high mounts don't line up very well with the collimator and can make it difficult to see the grid, but I've always managed to use it.
I've also tried laser boresighters that fit in the breech and in the muzzle, and neither seemed of any practical use to me, whereas the optical collimator gives a repeatable quantitative measurement IME.
To me it would depend on how many times a year that you need to sight in, and how far it is to the nearest range. "Old fashioned" or not I find pulling the bolt and lining up the barrel, scope and something shiny about 30 to 50 yards away, works for me. Then ALWAYS put the first target out at 20-25 yards. This usually gets me sighted in as well as a bore sighter, with
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Widow maker 223
Active member
Originally Posted By: Bigdog2To me it would depend on how many times a year that you need to sight in, and how far it is to the nearest range. "Old fashioned" or not I find pulling the bolt and lining up the barrel, scope and something shiny about 30 to 50 yards away, works for me. Then ALWAYS put the first target out at 20-25 yards. This usually gets me sighted in as well as a bore sighter, with
Varminterror
New member
Most of the time, if a guy optically centers the scope, dials the height of the optic over bore, add 1.5-2" of drop for the range, then take a shot on target. With a proper rifle and quality mounts, that'll be on paper at 50yrds for sure, usually on target at 100yrds.
I have a Bushnell and a LaserLyte laser boresighters, I double check my optically centered scopes with this before I head afield, and I use them for boresighting ironsights and red dots. Both work well for me. It's boresighting, after all, it's not a guaranteed zero. If I can get within 6" (12" circle) at 50yrds on my first shot, I'll be zeroed and confirmed within 5-6 shots.
I have a Bushnell and a LaserLyte laser boresighters, I double check my optically centered scopes with this before I head afield, and I use them for boresighting ironsights and red dots. Both work well for me. It's boresighting, after all, it's not a guaranteed zero. If I can get within 6" (12" circle) at 50yrds on my first shot, I'll be zeroed and confirmed within 5-6 shots.
If I break paper at 100yds, I can get pretty close to zero in three shots. I usually use my bore sighter when I first mount the scope then pull the bolt and look through the barrel when I get to the range. Always at 100yds unless for some reason I can't get on paper, then I will go back to 25yds and start over. I just don't trust my BSA. I bore sighted my Axis, hung two targets side by side, aimed at the left center and hit the right upper left. I guess that could be operator but I just don't trust it. Sometimes it gets me really close and then there are the other times when its off a mile.
Coyotehunter_
New member
The the kind that actually go into the chamber and shine the laser light down the barrel and out to the target.
The kind that stick inside the end of the barrel wobble way too much and are inaccurate if they are not tight inside the barrel.
Get a reflective target too. One that can reflect red or green laser light in sunlight. That really helps.
I have a 9 mm sized on and a 223 cal sized one that I use. They also make one for the 22 cal as well. The downside is that you have to install the batteries each time you want to use these devices and take the batteries out when you are done. And you have to buy several different sized batteries to use these things. But they do work the best.
I have 3 or 4 of the other types that use different sized o rings and attachments to stick in the barrel. They work but you have to use them really close to the target.
The kind that stick inside the end of the barrel wobble way too much and are inaccurate if they are not tight inside the barrel.
Get a reflective target too. One that can reflect red or green laser light in sunlight. That really helps.
I have a 9 mm sized on and a 223 cal sized one that I use. They also make one for the 22 cal as well. The downside is that you have to install the batteries each time you want to use these devices and take the batteries out when you are done. And you have to buy several different sized batteries to use these things. But they do work the best.
I have 3 or 4 of the other types that use different sized o rings and attachments to stick in the barrel. They work but you have to use them really close to the target.
O.B. Wallace
New member
I have a vice that I can mount my rifle in and sighting in looking out my barn door at a target on a piece of cardboard. The target is a black Folgers coffee can lid and it is positioned a distance that encompasses the bore of said rifle exactly...no outside area showing around lid as I look down the bore and carefully move cross hairs to 12:00 position on target. Can be on target with this method every time if done carefully with no movement while adjusting crosshairs. This will work with rimfire, center fire, and muzzleloader...just set distance according to fully cover the bore. This also will work if gun has been bumped/dropped and possible scope knocked out of focus. Only takes few minutes to check if in doubt of where is hitting.
By whatever method you chose, You want to adjust as much of your right and left adjustment (windage) with the windage adjust screw of your mounts. You should have centered your scope reticle adjustments first. The more "inside the scope" windage adjustment you use, the less verticle adjust will be available (due to scopes being round).
Of course if you never plan on shooting longer distances 300 plus, it might not make much difference.
Of course if you never plan on shooting longer distances 300 plus, it might not make much difference.
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O.B. Wallace
New member
Originally Posted By: Bigdog2By whatever method you chose, You want to adjust as much of your right and left adjustment (windage) with the windage adjust screw of your mounts. You should have centered your scope reticle adjustments first. The more "inside the scope" windage adjustment you use, the less verticle adjust will be available (due to scopes being round).
Of course if you never plan on shooting longer distances 300 plus, it might not make much difference.
So true Bigdog2, the mirror test can get windage an elevation centered...always do before mounting a new scope.
Of course if you never plan on shooting longer distances 300 plus, it might not make much difference.
So true Bigdog2, the mirror test can get windage an elevation centered...always do before mounting a new scope.
Originally Posted By: Bigdog2By whatever method you chose, You want to adjust as much of your right and left adjustment (windage) with the windage adjust screw of your mounts. You should have centered your scope reticle adjustments first. The more "inside the scope" windage adjustment you use, the less verticle adjust will be available (due to scopes being round).
Of course if you never plan on shooting longer distances 300 plus, it might not make much differe
True, but not all mounts have windage screws.
Of course if you never plan on shooting longer distances 300 plus, it might not make much differe
True, but not all mounts have windage screws.
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I have a private shooting range and have been the local smith for many years...I sight in many guns a year...I have never seen any bore sight that works to the point it is worth buying. I guess if there was one that was effective to the point it would actually save someone some ammo I would get it. Just like "optically centering a scope" before you zero the rifle...why??? Unless you have adjustable mounts what is the point??? lacking adjustable mounts you are going to put the scope on the rifle and go move it to the point of zero anyway. Whether it is "optically centered" or not, the scope will zero to the same place so why do it??? Just like the boresights that don't work...why bother??? Take the rifle to the range, set up close like 50 yards and finish at 100. The two extra shots it takes are money well spent compared to jacking around with some gizmo to try and get a little closer {which don't happen anyway} not to mention putting a chrome plated {every one I have ever seen was} steel rod down the muzzle to gunch up the rifling.
There are many people that just do not get sighting in a rifle or slug gun...I have heard them shoot one round after another literally all day long, usually just after opening day of deer season trying to get a slug gun sighted in. One clown told me he fired over 100 slugs in one day and came to the shop to see what was wrong with his scope mounted 870 with a extra full Carlson's tube shooting sabot slugs.
I am going to go remove all my scopes so that I can optically center them, then mount them back on the rifle and go zero them right back to the same adjustment....outta here!!!!!
Edit: In the early 80's when I went to school for this stuff there was a device we learned about that looked like a bore sight. It actually clamped on the outside of the barrel {didn't hurt the rifling} and the purpose was to get the scope bases shimmed to level on the receiver when you drilled and tapped actions for scope bases, like the Mauser or Springfield. Haven't built a custom Mauser in twenty years or more. I don't believe the thing was made to be used as a way to get the scope close to zero on a rifle without firing a shot, but because of the way it worked I think it was used for that purpose a lot.
There are many people that just do not get sighting in a rifle or slug gun...I have heard them shoot one round after another literally all day long, usually just after opening day of deer season trying to get a slug gun sighted in. One clown told me he fired over 100 slugs in one day and came to the shop to see what was wrong with his scope mounted 870 with a extra full Carlson's tube shooting sabot slugs.
I am going to go remove all my scopes so that I can optically center them, then mount them back on the rifle and go zero them right back to the same adjustment....outta here!!!!!
Edit: In the early 80's when I went to school for this stuff there was a device we learned about that looked like a bore sight. It actually clamped on the outside of the barrel {didn't hurt the rifling} and the purpose was to get the scope bases shimmed to level on the receiver when you drilled and tapped actions for scope bases, like the Mauser or Springfield. Haven't built a custom Mauser in twenty years or more. I don't believe the thing was made to be used as a way to get the scope close to zero on a rifle without firing a shot, but because of the way it worked I think it was used for that purpose a lot.
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Brad Phillips
Active member
I have never used one. Looking at all the different makes and models seems confusing at best. I have usually either pulled the bolt and looked that way or just sent a round downrange and adjusted from there.
BOWLSEYE
New member
I see no reason to buy all the gadgets when you can look down the barrel and bore sight your scope. If your worried about mechanical center then by adjustable rings like the Burris Signature Zee's or what ever brand or method you like. Center you scope's windage and elevation, bore sight it, find your point of impact then use the mounting system to zero. You must make sure your crosshairs are level too.
If you have your scope mounted and leveled and your going to sight it in using the elevation and windage knobs. Get a piece of paper or something you can put target dot on and hang it up 30 to 50 yards out. Have your rifle unloaded and mounted so it won't move looked down through the barrel from the breech end and center the dot in the barrel by adjusting the rifle on its mounting rest, turn the scope knobs until the cross hairs line up with the dot and make sure the dot is still centered in the bore, then test shoot at 50 yards and zero in. Then move to 100 or how ever far you want to zero.
If you have your scope mounted and leveled and your going to sight it in using the elevation and windage knobs. Get a piece of paper or something you can put target dot on and hang it up 30 to 50 yards out. Have your rifle unloaded and mounted so it won't move looked down through the barrel from the breech end and center the dot in the barrel by adjusting the rifle on its mounting rest, turn the scope knobs until the cross hairs line up with the dot and make sure the dot is still centered in the bore, then test shoot at 50 yards and zero in. Then move to 100 or how ever far you want to zero.