kansascoyotekiller
New member
I know there are a lot of opinions on this subject but I would like some feedback on break in procedures for a new rifle. What solvent, type of brush, shooting procedure, ect.? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
Breaking in new rifle barrels
- Thread starter kansascoyotekiller
- Start date
Jack Roberts
Moderator - Deceased
Do a search and you will be reading for a week.
Jack
Jack
The advise that I followed on the only rifle I've ever tryed this on was;
1. Start with 60 rounds of factory loads.
2. Fire ten rounds AND CLEAN BETWEEN EACH SHOT.
3. Fire 5 rounds and clean.
4. Repeat step 3 until all sixty rounds have been fired.
They didn't say anything about which solvent or any particlar brush to use.
I would suggest you take 2 cleaning rods, one for brush the other for jag, to save having to change all of the time.
When you get to step 3, you might as well use the groups to sight in.
Also don't do like I did and start late in the afternoon, I had to go back and finish the next day.
Good luck.
1. Start with 60 rounds of factory loads.
2. Fire ten rounds AND CLEAN BETWEEN EACH SHOT.
3. Fire 5 rounds and clean.
4. Repeat step 3 until all sixty rounds have been fired.
They didn't say anything about which solvent or any particlar brush to use.
I would suggest you take 2 cleaning rods, one for brush the other for jag, to save having to change all of the time.
When you get to step 3, you might as well use the groups to sight in.
Also don't do like I did and start late in the afternoon, I had to go back and finish the next day.
Good luck.
DogBeGone
New member
Quote:
Clean it up good and go shoot.
Keep'er clean and rust free.
Nuff said /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Gotta say, while I'd have declared this heresy 7 or so years ago, this is the procedure I've been going with as of late.
I've broken in 4 heavy barreled varminters with some variation of the Sinclair method, and 2 with no break in at all other than the quoted advice.
They're all accurate, and they all clean up with about the same effort.
So I'm not really on board for the full break in anymore, unless it's a super expensive match barrel on a dream rifle.
Clean it up good and go shoot.
Keep'er clean and rust free.
Nuff said /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Gotta say, while I'd have declared this heresy 7 or so years ago, this is the procedure I've been going with as of late.
I've broken in 4 heavy barreled varminters with some variation of the Sinclair method, and 2 with no break in at all other than the quoted advice.
They're all accurate, and they all clean up with about the same effort.
So I'm not really on board for the full break in anymore, unless it's a super expensive match barrel on a dream rifle.
Bayou City Boy
New member
[quote
So I'm not really on board for the full break in anymore, unless it's a super expensive match barrel on a dream rifle.
I too have mixed emotions as to whether it helps or not as I have gone both ways over the years and not seen any real difference. On a typical factory tube, I don't think it will do a thing for accuracy - it may make clean-up easier in some rough barrels.
On the quote above, the good match grade barrel is the one that probably needs it the least - if indeed there is any benefit - as it has been hand lapped and polished as part of the manufacturing process.
Something that I have used for several years that makes a big difference in how much a barrel fouls is Lock-Eze - or coloidal graphite - applied to the barrel after cleaning. I have definitely found that rifles with it in the bore for the first shot just plain clean up easier. The effect can easily be see on a typical factory barrel that tends to foul. I also use it on my custom barrels.
Just my take on it. - BCB
So I'm not really on board for the full break in anymore, unless it's a super expensive match barrel on a dream rifle.
I too have mixed emotions as to whether it helps or not as I have gone both ways over the years and not seen any real difference. On a typical factory tube, I don't think it will do a thing for accuracy - it may make clean-up easier in some rough barrels.
On the quote above, the good match grade barrel is the one that probably needs it the least - if indeed there is any benefit - as it has been hand lapped and polished as part of the manufacturing process.
Something that I have used for several years that makes a big difference in how much a barrel fouls is Lock-Eze - or coloidal graphite - applied to the barrel after cleaning. I have definitely found that rifles with it in the bore for the first shot just plain clean up easier. The effect can easily be see on a typical factory barrel that tends to foul. I also use it on my custom barrels.
Just my take on it. - BCB
Bayou City Boy
New member
For every one that says "ya' gotta' do it", there's another one who says "ya' don't gotta' do it". - BCB
http://www.shilen.com/#question10
http://www.shilen.com/#question10
DogBeGone
New member
Quote:
[quote
So I'm not really on board for the full break in anymore, unless it's a super expensive match barrel on a dream rifle.
On the quote above, the good match grade barrel is the one that probably needs it the least - if indeed there is any benefit - as it has been hand lapped and polished as part of the manufacturing process.
Just my take on it. - BCB
Excellent point. You're paying top dollar, that work should've been put into it already.
[quote
So I'm not really on board for the full break in anymore, unless it's a super expensive match barrel on a dream rifle.
On the quote above, the good match grade barrel is the one that probably needs it the least - if indeed there is any benefit - as it has been hand lapped and polished as part of the manufacturing process.
Just my take on it. - BCB
Excellent point. You're paying top dollar, that work should've been put into it already.
I just take them out of the box, clean the barrel first, and shoot the hell out of it. I clean them about every 100 or 200 rounds when shooting PD's. Clean them after every shooting session when not using them for hunting PD's.
Have never had a problem with them on accuracy. I don't put much stock in the lengthy break in procedure. Don't ever use them and rifles shoot very well.
Have never had a problem with them on accuracy. I don't put much stock in the lengthy break in procedure. Don't ever use them and rifles shoot very well.
Leroy
New member
Quote:
I just take them out of the box, clean the barrel first, and shoot the hell out of it.
for once we agree... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif if I find one that's fouling badly or doesn't want to let go of the nasties I may give it 50 strokes with a tight patch and some Flitz... that'll settle'em down quickly, and normally not have any more problems...
I just take them out of the box, clean the barrel first, and shoot the hell out of it.
for once we agree... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif if I find one that's fouling badly or doesn't want to let go of the nasties I may give it 50 strokes with a tight patch and some Flitz... that'll settle'em down quickly, and normally not have any more problems...
FIREMAN40X
New member
Consult barrel maker..that way if it doesn't shoot you can send it back to them with a little note attached.
