Broadhead vs field point

I've heard this go back and forth for a long time. Some people believe that if your bow is tuned, they should fly the same. That simply isn't my experience. I've got a variety of different heads here, and some simply fly different due to the blades catching wind. That said, they fly good, no fishtailing or anything like that, but their poi is different. I don't really care where the poi is, so long as the flight is good. I've been shooting thunderheads the last couple of years. They fly great, but hit 4" low right of my field tips, so I move my sight a little bit and done.
 
Seems the faster the rig the worst it gets.

I've shot thunderheads for many years,my newest set up doen't shoot them well.

Muzzys , Rage and Spitfire are all spot on with field tips.

Tim
 
Originally Posted By: Tim NeitzkeSeems the faster the rig the worst it gets.

I've shot thunderheads for many years,my newest set up doen't shoot them well.

Muzzys , Rage and Spitfire are all spot on with field tips.

Tim
wick_ss,
Like Tim Neitzke has stated, things change with an increase in speed. Also, Thunderheads (not as good aerodynamics with speed increases) are not the broadhead of choice for faster bows...like over 240 f.p.s.

Once you get into a faster bow speed, you need to change to a shorter ferrule broadhead. Reason being is the aerodynamics change. There's less windplane surface with a short ferrule broadhead, but the cutting diameter is the same...as well as the performance. The shorter ferruled broadheads will fly to the same P.O.I. as field tips.

I'm shooting a Razor Trick model of Slick Tricks and am getting the same P.O.I. as my field tips out to 50 yards...and getting 3" groups.

Good hunting, Bowhunter57
 
The only broadhead that I have ever seen that comes close is the Spitfire mechanicals. Out of our crossbows there is no difference at all. In our compounds the difference is so slight and insignificant that I do not change my sites at all and still make killing shots out to 40 yds.
They are also 100%completely devastating on whitetails and easy to rebuild when needed.
 
Out to 30 yards Muzzy'sshoot to the same point of aim as the field points. Then start dropping faster,4in low at 40 and 8 at 50yds. Steelheads and Rage both keep same poi out to 50.
 
Ya should always take them and shoot them to be sure. Privuded the bow is is tune, the cams are timed and centershot is on point they should be [beeep] close.

The most important factor provided that someone knowledgeable sets the bow up is that the arrow spine is spot on. To weak/stiff and youll never get them to both impact the same.

I'm a string builder and Ive tuned more then my share of bows. Good luck!
 
I would also like to add that in my experience I have gone to helical (SP?) fletchings for two blades and it seems to reduce planing. I think planing is mostly to blame for different POC between broadheads and fieldpoints and also ferule length is another issue.
 
I dont have a problem at all shooting any Fixed Blade Head on the market they all fly right with my field points for me thats with a bow shooting 328fps , The main and most importaint thing besides having your bow tuned properly is that your arrows with the fixed blades spin test properly with no wobble at all , with the ends of the shafts squared after cutting and the inserts squared after instalation and all your arrow are properly balanced to the same weight and your FOC is exactly the same on each arrow it doesnt matter how long or short the Broadheads are from the tip of your arrow they will fly true , I shot Slick Trick Razor Tricks during this season which are a devistating short head and took 2 deer with them , I now have 2 blade Magnus Stingers on my arrows for Coyotes so many people told me they dont fly worth a crap i just had to see for myself , as you know the Magnus Stinger is again as long as a Slick Trick and it also flys perfect out to 80 yards all 6 of them dead on with my field points , i just took the front shoulders out from underneith a Yote at 70 yds yesterday there he laid Paws Up ......LOL....Also i would like to add if you have your arrows perfect and if your bow isnt properly tuned a fixed head will not fly consistant or at all thats why alot of guys will turn to and shoot mechanicals as a crutch for there field point accuracy and bad mouth fixed blade heads ....One way to get your fixed blades to fly great and consistant is after you get your set up bench tuned do a walk back tune from 10 to 50 with your broadheads ......alot of guys dont think about backing there limb bolts off or putting turns in to controll broadhead flight if your shooting 3'' to the right dead on for height take a 1/2 turn out of your limbs it will bring it right over spot on and same with shooting left but then you have to put turns into your limbs .....thats all part of your tuning prosses ......Make sure your rest center shot is perfect and nock height is perfect .
 
Originally Posted By: turnminsideoutprobly close to the same flight but I have not shot a booadhead that flys the same as the field point

If you have a slight tuning issue that a Fixed Blade wont fly with your field points ....Use a Slick Trick Broadhead then they will cause of there shorter length , The regular 1'' Slicks or the 1 1/8'' Magnums are great heads ......The Razor Tricks are awsome ....can buy any of them for $25.00 a pack and i've killed alot of stuff with them and one heck of a blood trail they leave also .
 
If you properly tuned you bow and arrow, your feild point will fly to the same point as your broad head, at any distance. Physics is physics, if they do not fly the same your bow isn't tuned.

I paper tune myself (at 5 feet and 10 yards) and I have proven it (to myself and friends) many times with various fixed blade broad heads. Your fletching matters in this equations as well. I cut/fletch my own arrows.

I shoot muzzy mx3's.
 
Originally Posted By: Hoosier DaddyOriginally Posted By: turnminsideoutprobly close to the same flight but I have not shot a booadhead that flys the same as the field point

If you have a slight tuning issue that a Fixed Blade wont fly with your field points ....Use a Slick Trick Broadhead then they will cause of there shorter length , The regular 1'' Slicks or the 1 1/8'' Magnums are great heads ......The Razor Tricks are awsome ....can buy any of them for $25.00 a pack and i've killed alot of stuff with them and one heck of a blood trail they leave also .

+1 on Slick Tricks
 
i shoot sonics in 100grain 3 blade and they fly just like my field points.. a few years ago i had switched over to steel force broadheads from muzzy and they shot awesome too.(they just didnt perform very well when you shot something with them) the muzzys on the other hand would never fly true for me on my hoyt. ill continue to shoot the sonics from american broadhead company as long as they keep making them.
 
My experience is that with a properly tuned bow it's pretty close but I always sight in with my broadheads. Seems like they always fly just a little low for me. I have always shot some form of NAP. Nitron the last few years. Mostly it just seems like your form has to be right on or fixed wing broadheads can fly a little erratic with bad form, like dropping your bow arm.
 
Shoot a field point. Then shoot a broadhead. If the broadhead has a different POI move the arrow rest torwards the field point. The broadhead will catch up with the field point. Do this unroll you get them as close as they will shoot. Best to use separate bullseyes as not to shread your arrows. Braodheads will exagerate the symptoms of an untuned bow. For example, As you move the rest the field point may move 1 inch but that could move the broadhead 2 or 3 inches.
 
Originally Posted By: Snowshoe HunterIf the bow is set up correctly and your arrows with heads weigh the same, yes they should.

True ,but not always the case.
My bow will shoot a clean tear when paper tuning. Most fixed blades I've tried will shoot spot on ,but not all. Some just plane differant. Not all broadheads are created equal.
 


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