This is the time that i miss Catshooter. lol
Those trying to tell you about bullet rise, it doesn't happen.. If you stuff a laser in the bore and turn it on and draw a line. Fire a bullet, rise would be that bullet going above that line, and that does not happen. Like your scope, a laser is line of sight. Which is the trick. Getting the scope to show you where the bullet will be.
The bullet when fired is going to do the same thing every time, within the Standard Deviation of the components involved (rifle, bullets, powder... ect)
Where the challenge falls, as the orginal question asked, is how to get the scope and bullet in sync.
What most of these posts are talking about is setting the scope within reasonable limits. Which, will vary depending on shooting experience and preferences.
What is easier to tell someone is that you need to take the gun you are shooting.. Shoot what zero you want. shoot farther, and farther, until you shoot as far as you want to be able to shoot a coyote (make notes)..
Look at the numbers and think about what is going to work for you. There are just acceptable limits when hunting vs. bench shooting. I don't care if my bullet is .9" high, dead on at 200, and 3" lower than the cross hairs at 300. What you should be seeing is that by setting your zero at a good distance for you. you take the challenge out of it, or more appropriately the need to think about one more thing when you have a coyote coming in. I don't have to think about it until they are farther than 350 yrds.
I aim at the center of the coyote (height wise) and just about 4" behind the front shoulder. I know that even at 300+ I can aim at the top of Fur (always at fur), and still hit without really having to do anything for wind until it's blowing so hard that they are not coming anyways.
I have plenty going on when hunting, and when a coyote is coming, i like not having to really sit and think about it. Range cards are the trick for anything farther out.
Keep your card simple with range, magnification, and drop.
