Burris Fastfire II

yoteslayer0927

New member
I am thinking about going to a Burris Tactical Extreme 1-4x x24 topped with a Burris Fastfire II above for my new AR.. I heard that the Fastfire II is a bear to get set. Anyone have any experience with them?
 
I have the Fast Fire (so I guess that's a I not a II?).

It was easy to set. They give you a little wrench and it's the usual thing. Shoot a few, adjust, repeat.

Changing the batteries in the FFI is another story. I haven't had to do it yet and they claim 400 hours of battery life, so it will be a while. You have to remove the sight to replace the batteries, so you'll have to rezero then. Not sure if they corrected that problem with the FFII?

Btw, why would you get the FFII if you have a 1x capability in your scope if you don't mind me asking?
 
I like the Reflex better than the scope on running shots. I was told that the Fastfire has locking screws that move the point of impact every time you retighten them. So my understanding is you unlock the screws, adjust the windage or elevation and then retighten the lock screws. Is that accurate?
 
Originally Posted By: yoteslayer0927 you unlock the screws, adjust the windage or elevation and then retighten the lock screws. Is that accurate?

Yes, that is my understanding as well. When I adjusted it the first time it seemed pretty straight forward.
 
I found a review:

Fastfire II review

Quote:-Zeroing: Quite frankly, it's a pain in the ***. You must undo the two "locks" for the windage and elevation before adjusting the point of impact. Yes, you must unlock BOTH or else the laser's adjustment doesn't take place. There are no positive clicks like on a rifle scope. They provide a plastic disc to tell you how much adjustment you need, but the supplied screwdriver doesn't fit through the hole in the disc! I don't know what that's all about. I guess that disc was made in China. All of the screws on the unit are softer than Sig Sauer grip screws. They get boogered up easily, even using the factory supplied screwdriver.
 
Originally Posted By: yoteslayer0927I like the Reflex better than the scope on running shots.

The big problem is that your not going to have your check weld nearly as good as you will through the main optic. A lighted reticle on a 1-4x would be the best of both worlds. The secondary reflex sight is better suited to use with high power main optics for close targets. Moving targets, especially over 100 yards, can be more difficult with reflex sights that cover 4-5 MOA. It is also complicated by using an unnatural gun position.
 
I do not have the fast fire but I do have the speed bead on my duck hunting shotgun and have never had any problems with mine.It is easy to zero and changing batteries are easy I have done it in the field a few times and my zero holds perfect.
I will not wing shoot without one ever again.
When my AR gets here it will be topped with scope and a speed bead or fast fire,I think they are almost the same unit.I use my duck shotgun for hunting yotes and it is perfect for that purpose also.
 
I had one on top of my AR10 at the 1:00 position above my scope and found it to work pretty well. All I had to do was cant my rifle a little to the left and had perfect sight alignment it just felt weird shooting while holding my rifle crooked and having no cheek weld on the stock.
I did not care for it personaly but it did do the job.
Mt brother needed it more then I did so it now sits on top of the scope on his .243.
The FFII is much more waterproof then the first design. Setting the adjustments was no big deal realy and I never had to change the battery in mine( I did not use it for very long).
KOH
 
I have the Doctor Optic on my Ruger Mark 3. I know it is not the same product but a very similar design. I love this thing.

I can hit shotgun shells at 40 yards about 3 out of 10 shots.

There are several other companies making this same design including Leopold, C-More and JP Enterprises. They are a little more than the Burris.

I have had my Doctor for 10 years and have changed the batteries twice. You have to remove the unit to change batteries but it seems to hold zero.
 


Write your reply...
Back
Top