huntsman22
New member
I've been asked again for info on skinning. I reckon it should be posted again for those that need the basics.....
The way I skin and prepare hides for sale, is just a little different than if it is going to be tanned or to the taxidermist. A fox was used for this demo, but the methods are the same for any fubearer that is to be cased. I first skin one leg, starting below the hock. Be sure not to damage the tendon, it is easier to hang the critter, if the tendons are intact. Circle cut the front legs below the elbow. Hang on the gambrel by the leg, and lift to a comfortable working height.
Skin the other leg, spread, and hang him up by both. Skin down to the pelvis and around the taila couple inches down. Cut around the bung and skin genitals. Take a tail stripper or ordinary pair of slip joint pliers, hold them snug to the tail and pull the bone out.
After the bone is free, insert a knife into the hollow tail skin and split the underside all the way to the tip.
Now pull the hide to the shoulders, using fingers or the knife handle to help.
When you get this far, carefully skin and free the front legs. Pull them thru the already circled hide.
Skin the skull, cut thru the ear bases and carefully skin the eyes. leave the eyelids on the fur. Skin the lips. You can stick a finger in the earholes and lips to put down pressure on the hide to aid the skinning process.
Cut off the bottom jaw hide, and leave attached to the carcass. Then skin to the nose, and free the pelt.
Put the critter over a stretcher (wood or wire) and flesh the hide. For canines and cats, I use a sharpened stainless steel tablespoon or scraper, to remove the fat and whatever meat that needs removed.
Sew up any cuts or bullet holes at this time. Use fishline, dental floss or waxed carpet thread.
When done.....
Dispose of your carcasses so as not to offend others. Skulls and baculums can be saved as mementos......
Let the hide dry for a while on the stretcher, fur in. When partially dry, but still flexible, turn it fur-side out. Center the pelt on the stretcher and let dry completely before removing to take to the fur buyer. Bloody fur should be washed before stretching and drying. Comb and clean the fur and give it a couple shakes to fluff, before showing your buyer.
This is the way I do it to sell them. If you are going to mount them or have them tanned, save the lower jaw skin instead of removing it. Also, do not circle the front legs. Instead, skin them comepletely. I also think they look better with the feet attached. To do this, just split the fur from the base of the main foot pad to the elbow. Free and skin each toe. When all the feet are skinned, salt them and the tail. Check with your taxidermist to see how they want the lips and ears taken care of. Most want to do this part themselves. Some taxi's want the tail unsplit. To do this, pull the bone as shown above, but run a stiff wire (I use a sharpened 1/8th gas welding rod) to the end of the tail casing, and pierce the end, for drainage (this instead of splitting). Fill the casing with salt, using the same rod to get it clear to the bottom.
This should give you a start, on how to prepare the hide. For coon, badger and other critters that are harder to flesh, use a fleshing beam and 2-handed fleshing knife. You can get them thru trapping supply dealers. Have fun! Don
The way I skin and prepare hides for sale, is just a little different than if it is going to be tanned or to the taxidermist. A fox was used for this demo, but the methods are the same for any fubearer that is to be cased. I first skin one leg, starting below the hock. Be sure not to damage the tendon, it is easier to hang the critter, if the tendons are intact. Circle cut the front legs below the elbow. Hang on the gambrel by the leg, and lift to a comfortable working height.
Skin the other leg, spread, and hang him up by both. Skin down to the pelvis and around the taila couple inches down. Cut around the bung and skin genitals. Take a tail stripper or ordinary pair of slip joint pliers, hold them snug to the tail and pull the bone out.
After the bone is free, insert a knife into the hollow tail skin and split the underside all the way to the tip.
Now pull the hide to the shoulders, using fingers or the knife handle to help.
When you get this far, carefully skin and free the front legs. Pull them thru the already circled hide.
Skin the skull, cut thru the ear bases and carefully skin the eyes. leave the eyelids on the fur. Skin the lips. You can stick a finger in the earholes and lips to put down pressure on the hide to aid the skinning process.
Cut off the bottom jaw hide, and leave attached to the carcass. Then skin to the nose, and free the pelt.
Put the critter over a stretcher (wood or wire) and flesh the hide. For canines and cats, I use a sharpened stainless steel tablespoon or scraper, to remove the fat and whatever meat that needs removed.
Sew up any cuts or bullet holes at this time. Use fishline, dental floss or waxed carpet thread.
When done.....
Dispose of your carcasses so as not to offend others. Skulls and baculums can be saved as mementos......
Let the hide dry for a while on the stretcher, fur in. When partially dry, but still flexible, turn it fur-side out. Center the pelt on the stretcher and let dry completely before removing to take to the fur buyer. Bloody fur should be washed before stretching and drying. Comb and clean the fur and give it a couple shakes to fluff, before showing your buyer.
This is the way I do it to sell them. If you are going to mount them or have them tanned, save the lower jaw skin instead of removing it. Also, do not circle the front legs. Instead, skin them comepletely. I also think they look better with the feet attached. To do this, just split the fur from the base of the main foot pad to the elbow. Free and skin each toe. When all the feet are skinned, salt them and the tail. Check with your taxidermist to see how they want the lips and ears taken care of. Most want to do this part themselves. Some taxi's want the tail unsplit. To do this, pull the bone as shown above, but run a stiff wire (I use a sharpened 1/8th gas welding rod) to the end of the tail casing, and pierce the end, for drainage (this instead of splitting). Fill the casing with salt, using the same rod to get it clear to the bottom.
This should give you a start, on how to prepare the hide. For coon, badger and other critters that are harder to flesh, use a fleshing beam and 2-handed fleshing knife. You can get them thru trapping supply dealers. Have fun! Don
