Cerakote and Glocks

Squeeze

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I am considering getting at least one, and maybe more, Glock pistol slides Cerakoted. I have a G23 Gen4 that is showing severe holster scuffing, even though it rides around my truck in a Comp-Tac Infidel(serpa) holster, pinched between seat partitions. The Gen4 finish is not as durable as past Glock finishes.
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So my question is which Cerakote "black" looks closest to the original finish? From what I can tell, those that like a shiny pistol, like "Graphite Black", but from a couple of pictures I can find, the "Armor Black" looks more flat black, which I find more appealing. So is there any experience with Glocks and Cerakote out there? Someone have one in either of these black colors?

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I don't own a glock to compare but the rifle I sprayed with graphite black isn't shiny at all.

Cerakote will still show some wear with a plastic holster. I prefer leather for inside the waiste band.
 
Originally Posted By: Rock KnockerI don't own a glock to compare but the rifle I sprayed with graphite black isn't shiny at all.

Cerakote will still show some wear with a plastic holster. I prefer leather for inside the waiste band.

So tell me more about this "I sprayed" part. Is there a bunch
of prep involved? What did you use for a sprayer? Curing?

Thanks for any info you may provide.

Squeeze
 
If the slide is all you're doing, do it yourself and save a ton of $$$. Like Rock Knocker said, it will show some wear after awhile in a plastic holster. I can't remember for sure, but it seemed to wear about as fast as the factory finish, maybe Knocker would have a better idea (my G20 is a woods/truck gun, so it gets hammered) Prep is the key for DIY. Degrease, then degrease, then degrease... After it's totally spic-n-span, figuring out how to hold the slide while spraying and baking is about the toughest thing, maybe masking depending on how picky you get about it.

I like the oven cure stuff best. It seems a bit tougher, but I've never done side-by-side. An air compressor and a cheap gravity feed cup sprayer (the smaller the better) is really all you need. Auto parts stores usually have a touch-up type (1 cup or smaller) for less than $40, got mine for $35 at a tool sale. It doesn't need to be fancy, just so you can adjust air n spray pattern/flow, most do. Practice on something you're not worried about first. Unless you're a real window-licker, the learning curve is quick. I did an old Hogue handguard first to learn how it layed out. As with all painting, several light coats are better than a couple heavy coats. I'd advise not using the oven in your kitchen if you use the bake-on kind, the stank hangs onto a an over better than you'd think it would.
 
Hi I don't want to hi jack your post. I to have the same trouble with my xdm 40 s&w 4.5 . My carry gun. I have only put 50 RDS thru this one. How do I stop finish coming off. Is it worth getting dipped I don't care what it cost if its under 350.00 and have a lifetime warranty. I carry it in a inside waste pants holder.. I like the holder but its hard on finish. Thanks.
 
If your looking to fix the holster wear you need to xxxx the cera kote idea. Unless you do your own you wont be very impressed with how long it last. My sig 1911 desert already has bare places on it and it sees 0 use. It is strapped to my bed post in a leather galco form fit. Take it out once a month and swap magazines. Better off with a good cleaning and a can of rustoleum.
 
I've had exactly the opposite results with ceracoat. It's lasted at least as long as the finish did on a new Gen 3 Glock, but it's still showing significant wear. For a gun that spends much time holstered in any holster, your best options are 1- Refinish as needed, 2- ignore the wear on the pistol, or 3- stainless, stainless, or maybe even stainless (stainless would be good as well)
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This is graphite black on a gen 3 that had 15 years of duty wear on it. I personally think the shiny Glock finish from about 10 years ago was as good as it gets, and ceracoat won't match it, The good thing is doing just a slide is cheap and if it needs it in the future strip it and shoot it again.

 
Originally Posted By: RockinUI've found the factory finish to be pretty adequate.

A good resource for exactly how much a glock can take:
http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462537

Those people either have too much time or money or both. I put a 1911 through some tests like that, but it was strapped to me, and I went through the test, too.
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FWIW, I have some older Gen 3s, that the finish is rock solid, and takes a beating in normal use and still comes up looking pretty. These later Gen 4s, not so much. I have an early G17 Gen 4, that has a good durable finish on it, but this last G23.4 and G21.4, show wear easily. I was hoping to get something more durable on them, but it doesn't sound like Cerakote is the answer. I have rattle can painted a shotgun, and a couple of rifle stocks, that have held up about like what has been described of Cerakote, and I can touch them up easily. Sounds like a can of Krylon Ultra Flat Black Camo paint is my best choice.

Thanks for the discussion.

Squeeze
 


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