Cold Bluing?

DannoBoone

DannoBoone

Active member
OK, I realize it isn't going to be as good as hot bluing, but who
makes the best cold bluing for new chrome-molly steel?

I have had good success with Birchwood Casey for touch-ups. Once
"blended in", it's very difficult to tell it has been done. However,
I have heard there are better products for a complete job.
 
OxphoBlue...best thing I have found, and there is a method to applying it.

Degrease everything as good as you can, then do it some more. Get some #0000 Steel wool, and degrease it as well. Heat the part in an oven, or worth a propane torch. Just hot enough that its too hot to touch. Use the steel wool like a cotton ball, and apply the Oxpho in a circular motion, rubbing it in. If the part is hot enough, it will evaporate and begin to oxidize almost immediately. Apply several coats. Once you think you have enough, soak the part in oil for a while.

Its not as good as real bluing, but its the best I have found for a quick blue.
 
Oxpho blue works as good as any other cold blue...which isn't saying much. Lighter fluid makes a good degreaser, as does MEK, lacquer thinner and acetone. It sometimes helps to wash the parts with a product called Zud. It has some kind of light acid in it that helps the metal take the blue. The biggest thing is to warm up the parts with a heat gun or propane torch. You want them as hot as you can handle them. At the end of the day....take it to somebody that does hot bluing, pay the man and be done with it. You will not be happy with an entire gun that has been cold blued.
You might want to explore a process called "Belgian Blue", Brownell's sells it. It is what we use for old double barrel shotguns that cannot be hot blued. It is as durable as rust blue, which is even better than hot blue and all you need is the bottle of stuff, a large enough pot to boil the parts in and some steel wool. Good luck.
 
Originally Posted By: msincOxpho blue works as good as any other cold blue...which isn't saying much. Lighter fluid makes a good degreaser, as does MEK, lacquer thinner and acetone. It sometimes helps to wash the parts with a product called Zud. It has some kind of light acid in it that helps the metal take the blue. The biggest thing is to warm up the parts with a heat gun or propane torch. You want them as hot as you can handle them. At the end of the day....take it to somebody that does hot bluing, pay the man and be done with it. You will not be happy with an entire gun that has been cold blued.
You might want to explore a process called "Belgian Blue", Brownell's sells it. It is what we use for old double barrel shotguns that cannot be hot blued. It is as durable as rust blue, which is even better than hot blue and all you need is the bottle of stuff, a large enough pot to boil the parts in and some steel wool. Good luck.

Agreed on all counts.

That being said, with the advent of Cerakote and Hydrodipping, I dont have much use for bluing in any form. I dont have many pretty guns, though.
 


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