What is the difference between IMR and Hodgdon powders? I was looking at some load data for a 25-06 with 4350 and 4381 from IMR and Hodgdon, and at starting loads the Hodgdon had a higher velocity but at max loads the IMR had a higher velocity. I realize the amount of powder in each is different but I would have thought the same powder would yield higher velocities in each load. Any comments would be helpful.
Difference betwen IMR and Hodgdon
- Thread starter CodyB
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kyotekiller25
Well-known member
Different burn rates. Hodgons versions of 4350 and 4831 are a tad slower then IMR's.
Velocity can be one of many different things, not just powder type and amount. Whats fast in one rifle, could be slow in another, and vice versa.
Hodgon powders are also extreme, whereas IMR's are not. This is basically how consistent (velocity wise) they are in very cold/hot weather.
I prefer Hodgon over IMR, however, my 7 RM has been fed a steady diet of RL-22.
Velocity can be one of many different things, not just powder type and amount. Whats fast in one rifle, could be slow in another, and vice versa.
Hodgon powders are also extreme, whereas IMR's are not. This is basically how consistent (velocity wise) they are in very cold/hot weather.
I prefer Hodgon over IMR, however, my 7 RM has been fed a steady diet of RL-22.
Hodgdon owns Winchester powder. But, the same numbered powders are not the same. Example...IMR4895 is not H4895, and IMR4350 is not H4350. Maybe close, but not the same powder. However, H414 is W760 according to the technicians at Hodgdon. If you have questions about specific powders go to the Hodgdon website and download their data. They list Hodgdon, Winchester, IMR and all sort of bullets manufactured by Speer, Hornady, Sierra, Nosler just to mention a few. Don't assume anything about reloading data or charge weights, follow the reloading manual to a "T" and you will get better ammo and you will enjoy making it. Good luck...
Martyn4802
New member
Agree, the H- powders mentioned are slightly slower than the similarly numbered IMR- powders.
In addition to the H-414 being the same as 760, H-110 is the same as 296, and H-335 is the same as 748.
The only thing to do when confronted with a specific load is to use the loading manual's recommended powder charges, for a specific powder.
In addition to the H-414 being the same as 760, H-110 is the same as 296, and H-335 is the same as 748.
The only thing to do when confronted with a specific load is to use the loading manual's recommended powder charges, for a specific powder.
DO NOT INTERCHANGE THE LOAD DATA
25 years ago a reloading book that I had, showed only 4831, no H or IMR, just 4831. I used IMR powder and the numbers must have been for Hodgdons.
Anyway--a series of nasty explosions took place as the hot loads when fired backed the primers clear out of the back of the case with the bolt CLOSED. I was lucky, the old Mauser action took the punishment. I ended up pulling a whole lot of rounds to make it right.
25 years ago a reloading book that I had, showed only 4831, no H or IMR, just 4831. I used IMR powder and the numbers must have been for Hodgdons.
Anyway--a series of nasty explosions took place as the hot loads when fired backed the primers clear out of the back of the case with the bolt CLOSED. I was lucky, the old Mauser action took the punishment. I ended up pulling a whole lot of rounds to make it right.
Just to be clear for a newer loader here too - these fellows are giving good advise, but when they mention "slower" or "faster" powders, they are talking about the burn rate of that powder, i.e., each powder, and for that matter, each lot (mixed batch) of each powder, will have certain burning characteristics. Becuz a powder burns slower, does not mean that the velocity it will give in a certain gun or caliber will be slower than another powder with a faster burn rate - sometimes it's the opposite. That's what keeps us trying so many combinations of bullets, cases, primers and powders. But there will be a suitable range burn rate of powders for a given caliber and bullet weight that tends to produce suitable pressures for that cartridge's spec's. Stick with published reloading data from the major bullets and powder manufacturers' manuals, and you will be safe, AND achieve the best possible results. That said, all guns are different, so learn to watch for pressure signs as you work up loads, even beginning lower loads. Safety is first in this business, or you won't be around long to enjoy it. Read all you can from every source you can on reloading - The ABC's of Reloading is a good book to start with, NRA has one out too I believe, and all the major reloading data books have good beginner sections you should read till you can quote them. Good luck, and welcome to the site - lotsa good stuff here!
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