I'm not sure about Duracoat but I have used the cheaper alumahyde II on my Mossberg. When I prepped it, I broke it down as far as I could and taped everything off. For all the screw holes that I didn't want to get paint in, I took foam ear plugs and tore off small chunks and stuffed them in the holes. The paint soaked into them and they popped right out with no peeling. Next I sand blasted all metal parts then sprayed with brake cleaner. I soaked it in acetone to further degrease, pulled it out, let it dry, wiped down with a lent free rag and started painting. When painting, I took a heat gut and heated up the parts to be painted until they were warm (90-100*) not hot. After each thin coat, I would put the heat gun on low and flash the surface of the paint off and kept doing that until I was satisfied with the coat thickness. I didn't want to put it in my oven so I hung it in my bathroom which has a heater exhaust fan in the ceiling. I turned that on and let it go for 6 hrs. Checked it and the temp in the bathroom had got up to 136! I let it hang for a week after that in a 72* room, assembled and shot a turkey with it about 2 weeks later. It has held up well so I am sure the duracoat will be 10x better. Not sure if this process will work for Duracoat but not sure why it wouldn't...just my opinion. Good luck!
Shelton