Engine assembly lube.

R

Rock Knocker

Well-known member
My buddy was just rebuilding his quad engine when I got the idea to try lubing my handgun slides and parts with some of the engine assembly lube with moly graphite. It was Sta-Lube Extreme Pressure Engine Assembly Lube.

At first glance(feel actually), hands down the best slide lube I've used.

I am about to pick up half a lifetime small tube of it from the parts store and try some in my other guns.

I was generous with the lube and spread it on both contacting parts then put the pistols together and cycled the action several times and took a couple shots. Then took the pistols back apart and removed and excess lube.

I've never even noticed a differance from one gun lube to the next but this engine stuff is slick.

I carry these pistols and will watch for how fast dirt and grim builds up and what it's like cleaning up after applying the stuff.
 
It's getting late, I've got a lot of typos up there.

Anyways, a little bit goes a long way. Its dark in color but transparent in the quantity needed, heck they are black guns anyways.
 
Other than dirt accumulation, your next concern will be the dispersal factor on the weapon in hot weather, or after a high number of rounds are fired in rapid succession....Some lubes are easy to deal with within specific temperature ranges, but when outside of those limits, they either get 'gummy' or they spread 'uncontrollably' to undesirable areas....
 
I used that lube for many years in the assembly of racing engines, and it was always bullet proof, sorry. It works well with high temps since thats what it was designed for, once the engine was up and running it would wash off from the engine oil, job done.

As for a gun lube i simply don't know but it's a given it won't like sand or dirt.
 
I figured I've got nothing to worry about with high temps. Low temps were my only concern, I don't want it to get real thick, its been a cold winter here but this time of year I carry them inside a big Carhart jacket and they stay nice and warm.

The main reasons I like it so much is because of how little is needed to work very well. There is very little there to collect dirt and get cold and gummy, but the gun cycles noticable smoother.
 
If you have any aluminum-framed pistols, I wouldn't use it on them. Graphite is extremely corrosive to **BARE** aluminum. While we **hope** that any aluminum gun parts are hard coat anodized, never say never.

Also consider what this goop will do to your holsters and clothing.
 
Originally Posted By: Terry N.If you have any aluminum-framed pistols, I wouldn't use it on them. Graphite is extremely corrosive to **BARE** aluminum. While we **hope** that any aluminum gun parts are hard coat anodized, never say never.

Also consider what this goop will do to your holsters and clothing.

Myth #654.

Graphite is chemically inert and does not react with anything - it will only dissolve in molten nickel.

With a moh's hardness of 1, it is softer than almost all metals, including aluminum.

It will hurt nothing in guns.
 
I lubed my 1911 a week ago with the same stuff, didnt use much. Ran 50rds thru it, worked fine. Thought my gun was going to self destruct because the bottle didnt have the word gun anywhere on it.
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I have been using the same lube for more than 30 yrs from the trap gun to my ARs.
Slick & pretty slick but not runny.
Now delete the post & keep the secrete just that!
 
I've used moly graphite grease for a long time on triggers. Played a bit with it on other parts, 1911 and glock slides, etc etc. Works fine for me.
 
fwiw, for some time now, I've used Lubriplate's "105" engine assembly grease for some of the lubrication of my firearms. Lubriplate has been around for a darn long time. Lubriplate can I own is over 30 years old. Nowdays, I add a little graphite powder to the lubriplate before using it in a firearm. Works just fine for me.
 


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