First aid/dog kit


New member
I was reading another post and wondered- What do you have on hand either in your hunting rigs and/or at the house to take care of your dogs? I keep pen and ivomec (for worming) at the house and always have a leatherman while in the field, that comes in handy for porky encounters. I would like a more complete kit. What do you carry and why?
i keep about anything a guy needs here at the house, dex and pen, sewing stuff, staple guns, but in the pickup i just carry a staple gun and vet wrap, you can stop alot of bleeding or keep a bad wound pretty clean if you put enough vet wrap on it, at least till you get to the house
I'll give a detailed list, not going into the reasons for each item, all the items are in my "vet box", because at one time or another I have needed, or wanted them.
Keep in mind this is my personal box, for my type of dogs, in the country I hunt. From my house its 35 miles to a vet, many places I hunt I am 3 to 6 hours or more from a vet. I am no vet, I just wanna do my best to keep a dog alive, if need be.
Penn Procain G
Nitra furazone spray, or cream
cornstarch (to stop bleedin)
Stitch kits (needle 24 inches of waxed thread, in a sterile pak)
Electrical tape
length of close line
Vet wrap
sterile Gause
Super glue
Needle nose pliers.
Scalpel w/ extra blades
I keep all of this in a plastic ammo can, in the back seat of my rig.I only take it out in the winter, so stuff don't freeze, but never run dogs with out my "vet box".
I hope to pack this stuff day after day ,year after year, and never need it, but the reality is, I use it from time to time, and glad to have the stuff.
I have other stuff at the house,but my "box" is just a "first aid kit". Duane
I put together a first aid kit a few years ago and have added to it as different needs have arisen and I learn about more ways to treat them. Waterproof gun box, deep type with upper tray. Most of the time these items are in it and with me:

Granulex, Happy Jack Onex dressing, Sulfodene, Bag Balm, Iso alcohol, Vet wrap, Electrolyte fluids, Nutri-Stat paste, charcoal tabs, breathable med tape, duct tape, sharps, B-12, rubber gloves, gauze and clean rags. Penn G is in the fridge.
I'm gonna be the "dumb a$$" I have run dogs for a "few years", Never used "Granulex". Can someone tell us about the product, and what it's used for?
Duane, Granulex is technically formulated for treating horses, but it works great on dogs. Cauterizing the wound isn't accurate to describe how it works, but in the same way that burning tissue to stop bleeding and killing tissue promotes healing, Granulex "conditions" wounds in a way that as they dry and heal, dead tissue is cast off and productive under tissue takes its place as the healing process continues.

It is especially handy on tough to treat areas. I had a little terrier and he entered a tree stump and went to work on two BIG rock chucks. In the fight, the front piece of his bottom "lip" was split back to the jaw and left in half, it looked like two pieces of bacon hanging off of his jaws. I couldn't treat the split very well with any other method, so I sprayed it with granulex and hoped to save as much of the skin as I could. It worked as well as I could hope for and withered the loose hanging pieces of skin, while preserving and helping to "regenerate" the skin and tissue immediately attached to the jaw. The loose skin eventually fell off exposing his front bottom teeth, but no long term damage or problems.
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Duane, you are a dumb a$$..Lol Just kidding I had no idea either. Thanks Brian, and thanks for that Brass and ammo.
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Thanks Brian, is Granulex easy to find?
We had a colt cut up yesterday, I would like to try the stuff if I can find any. Do ya get it from the Vet, or the feed store?
Devin, at least I CAN RUN A CAMERA! HAHAHAHA!!!!!
Every feed store I've looked at has carried it, IFA, Tractor Supply, C-A-L Ranch or do a search for it and a vet supply with have it.
Duane-Granulex can usually be found at the farm store in the same section as Bluekote, Nitrofurozone, Scarlet Oil a yellow and white spray can. Before there was Granulex, plain ol meat tenderizer was the go to cure...

Take care.
Any one have time to explain what these are and what they are used for?

Nitra furazone spray, or cream
Doc, I have used good ole meat tenderizer on many horses.
I'll look for "Granulex", and get some, sounds like a good thing to have in my box.
Doc, you wanna answer the ?'s in the last post, you can surely explain better than I can.
Whack, we'll answer them for you, just give us alittle time.
I will try and simpify this for the average hunter to deal with an emergency long enough to get the dog to a trained vet for further care.

#1. Large cuts and bleeding all you need is a Quik Clot battle pack, and if you want you can carry two or three Quik Clot 25gm packs. This is every thing needed to deal with Arteries, Lungs, and gut hits in a dog or person if needed. Quik Clot is proven to stop 98% of artery wounds in the field. The closest to that is the Bagdad bandage at 50%.
Battle Pack
Quik Clot 25gm packs
How you use it.

#2. Heat Stroke.

Water for drenching the dogs heart area. Never drench the whole dog only the heart area. You will put them into unrevesable shock. Just apply room tempature water to the dogs heart area.

Hrydro tabs and 20oz water bottle. break the tabs up and shake until you can not see them in the water. This only works if your dog is not so far gone that wont drink.

IV and Saline drip. It's very important to get fluid into a dog that wont or cant drink. Most people don't know how to tap a vein and if the dog is really far gone the vein will bust anyway so just start an IV under the skin SubQ and keep it going till you can get to a vet. This can be troublesome in my area because of the heavy brush that you might have to crawl through so I carry a bottle of 9% Saline and a 60cc suringe and a #22 needle. I will load the dog up SubQ slowly then move the dog. Once I get to the truck I will start an IV drip.

Dextrose. If your dog doesn't have any fluid left from dehydration then he doesn't have any sugars left ether. I give Dextrose SubQ for the weight of the dog to try and replace the sugars lost by the dehydration.

Dexmethasone. This is for treatment of shock and edema. Your vet can give you a script for it and explain in detail how to use it on your dog and breed. This can save your dog so get with your vet and learn how to use it.

These are the only two things I treat in the field. Anything else goes to the vet or I treat at home or camp.
I think your goal would be to learn veterinary care so that one day you will be independent of them. You really owe it to yourself and your dogs to learn what the vet knows.
Outside of sewing up guts I can take care of anything that goes wrong with my dogs body.
I don't use ANY blood stop. All you need is patients.
If it doesn't stop on it's own add pressure, patients again and add pressure again. Eventually it will coagulate.

This is what I do below. Vets aren't gods. If you don't want to follow what I do go to the vet, spend your money, but PLEASE don't just look at the vet in awe find one you can learn from. One who is willing to teach you. Otherwise you will go broke in the dog game.

I AM NOT A VET. Any advice given should be checked with your vet. I have had a kennel most of my life and in extreme cases of trauma these methods have worked very well for me.
There are many ways to rehab a dog and my way is only one of them. I would strongly suggest you locate a veterinarian that will teach and work with you.
As many of you know keeping a large amount of dogs is VERY expensive and having your vet teach you how to take care of your dogs yourself will save you much time and money not to mention increase your knowledge and improve the quality of life of your dogs.
With that said....
I think the most important thing with wounds is keeping them clean.
1) Wash affected areas with Betidine scrub and rinse with warm water.
2) Staple large open wounds and leave part of it open to drain. Once stapled take a tube of triple antibiotic ointment and put the tip in every wound and pump in some ointment (this creates a nice wound barrier to keep bacteria out and promote healing).
If after a few days the wounds are not swollen and have formed a nice scab LEAVE THEM ALONE. A scab on a wound that is not infected is nature’s own band aid. Keeping them dry and clean is a good thing.
Some have used and swear by Granulex Spray
I have not used it but hear many good things from reliable sources.
3) If you think they need antibiotics polyflex is a very good one for bite wounds (see your vet for dose info).
If after a week series of injectables you have a wound or two that is being stubborn stop the injectable and switch up with a series of oral baytril, or if orals are more convenient use baytil only (see vet for dose info).
Some cases may require injections of Azium or dexamethasone? Dexamethasone is an inexpensive drug usually made for horses but can also be used on canines. Dex can be great for reducing swelling and allowing wounds to close quickly speeding up rehab. However, it is a corticosteroid that acts as a diuretic and will dehydrate your dog. To compensate this you can either put water in your dogs feed, and give them broth in the evenings to make sure they are drinking enough fluids (sometimes when it is cold dogs will not drink much) or you can give fluids either IV, or SQ. You can check your dog’s hydration by grabbing a pinch of skin along the spine in between the hips and beginning of the rib cage and pull upward and let it go. If the dog is at a working weight (lean) and hydrated it will snap right back. If the dog is slightly dehydrated it will take 1 second. If it is severely dehydrated it will take a count of 3, or more and will require immediate fluids either orally or via SQ, or IV. Dex can suppress immune system, and can be hard on kidneys and the liver. I usually only use it in rare instances and only for 3 days (check with your vet for dose info, etc).
If your dog has had a kennel fight, or experienced a similar bite wound and you have a lump under the skin the size of a cherry, walnut, or larger that does not have a hole to drain. You can take a 3 cc syringe and pull out the plunger and with a 22, or 18 gauge needle you can take the knot in your fingers and poke it a few times with the syringe and the extra fluid with milk out. You may have to do this twice a day until the lump is gone. Otherwise it may not re absorb and your dog will be left with a hematoma.
Dog should be kept in a clean dry area to rehab. If they are really beat keeping them in a crate lined with newspaper is a good idea. This can help keep debris from getting into open wounds causing an infection. If you rehab one this way you will have to take them out to empty often.
Common sense is the rule. Keep your dog warm (a dog that is beat can slip into shock if left in the cold to rehab) and clean and in most cases as shawn said you will not need antibiotic injectables.
Good working dogs work hard for us and I always figure the least we can do is make an effort to care for them properly afterward.

PS: Many wounds that are only about 1 in long by 1/2 inch wide if kept clean will close. Stapling large wounds shut leaving a small section up for draining does two things. 1st the healing time is MUCH faster, and the chance of bacteria and debri getting into the wound is GREATLY reduced.

Super Glue:
your dog may be more annoyed by that hard crap that is closing the wound than the wound itself and may chew at the wound until it gets it off making it worst than it originally was.
Keep it simple.
1) Wash em with anitseptic scrub
2) Put antibiotic ointment in their wounds
3) Keep em in a warm, clean, dry area to rehab.
4) If wounds are severe be proactive and give give oral, or injectable antibiotics.