Flash Hole deburring?

scsims

scsims

New member
How important is deburring the flash hole when reloading?

I was doing some reading and it said you can reduce your group size by doing this.

I was also looking to buy one and it looks like they only offer 4 calibers, and the stop comes in 17 calibers, what's up with that?
 
Deburring Flash holes is just another step in shaving group size. I do it just because I want all my cases alike. I am not sure in a factory rifle a difference can be noticed. I look at my relaods kinda like a race engine. No one step will make it run at top efficiency. All the little steps make a difference. Deburring flash holes and uniforming pockets alone wont make a bad gun shoot well. These two steps are a one time per case event. When I get a new lot of brass, i will cut the pockets and deburr the case. These cases will be shot a lot of times and the time involved doing these two step is negligeble.
I use a universal deburring tool in everything from 22- and up. The 17 has to be a different cutter due to neck size. The process in deburring is quick. You are not altering the flash hole. you are only removing the brass that was curled in when the hole was punched.
 
I always deburr the flash holes in my cases when i load the case for the first time and i believe it helps and reduces the so called flyers that sometime open up a really good group. The hard part is trying to decide if it is your shooting or the reload that gave you the flyer. In the end it may not help but i don't think it will ever hurt, just one more step in accurate reloading. I use the Lyman.
 
Well,

I run ALL my metalic cases when I acquire them thru that drill.

My two are the Midway and the Lyman.

Can't say about the .204 and which tool fits them take a case and have the shop open the package and try it.

When I do my flash holes, if its a large batch I chuck the cutter assembly into a drill press and go to town. You can get a few hundred done in fairly short order that way.

One caution. I like to trim the lengths first so the debur stop is giving a consistent depth. AND, I also prefer cutting on the light side rather than the heavy. You can also recut but it's hard to glue some back on!

Using a good small flashlight or other source and illuminate the internals on your cases will give you an idea as to how much internal champher you are getting.

You don't want to weaken your brass, you just want to "uniform it".

Three 44s
 
My flash hole deburring tool and primer pocker uniformers are all made by Sinclair International. I believe they are the highest quality available.
 
Just a note to what Randy said about steps. I have noticed that in doing the Flash Hole you would be amazed at the number of cases that produce a lot of debris. Got to be something there to produce that much extra brass shavings.
 
scsims,

I have used the Custom Products, Sinclair, and RCBS. I like Sinclair products the best. You can see some of the "left over" brass without a scope by using a flashlight in a darkened room. I have a Hawkeye bore scope and that thing will show you the difference of before and after. It only takes one time and the brass is good for the life of the round. I don't think I have any brass that has not been deburred. It is a great winter evening project.

Hawk
 
I think you will also see a marked improvement in your velocity spreads after performing this step. All in all I think it gives you a more uniform powder iginition. I debur the flash hole and uniform the primer pocket for uniform ignition.
 
I use the RCBS tool. While case is chucked in my Lee trimmer (which is chucked in my power drill), I trim, chamfer in/out, and flash hole uniform.

The whole process takes roughly 20 seconds per case.
 


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