Got to try the new V3 out today and helped alot

D

dan158

New member
The AR 204 likes the 40 gr Noslers being pushed over 3800 FPS..
And under 3800 the groups just opened up a lot.. I did have some split necks though from 4rth or 5th fired Winchester brass that lead to some inconsistent readings of 65 fps 3 shot groups..

Best 3 shot group at 100 yards was 3/16 and followed by another best 3 shot at 1/2.. All groups was at oal 2.25

IMG_20160503_173215417_zpsbygeet8b.jpg


These just went every what way.. Most was around 3728 and up..


IMG_20160503_173301188_zpssabelojz.jpg
 
Nice shooting! That is a popular load for 39 & 40's. Try annealing your brass every other firing or so, that stuff is like gold!
 
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dan158, did you by chance have a chronograph you used before you got your Magnetospeed V3 and if so was it a conventional/optical type with ski screens??

I only ask because, typically, when guys that have only used an optical type unit, use their Magnetospeed chronograph for the first time, they can't believe how easy the setup is and can't imagine ever using a optical chronograph ever again. I know that's what I thought and what the many others I let use my original V1 thought.

I picked up a V1 when they very first came out a few years ago and at the time there was zero feedback on them but it seemed like a pretty slick little gadget and the original V1 was only around $200 back then so I figured it was worth taking a chance on and at the time my dad had a Oehler 35P so if this new Magnetospeed chronograph thingy turned out to be a bust, I'd still be covered. At first, I shot it inline with my dads Oehler just to varify readings. After the first outing using it inline with the Oehler 35P the Oehler never come out of the box again and my dad couldn't sell his Oehler fast enough. Had another friend with a Oehler 35P that I shipped my V1 to so he could shoot my V1 inline with his Oehler. His results mirrored mine and I think the only time he ever took his Oehler out of the box after that, was so show it to the person he sold it to. lol
 
Excellent shooting, Dan!
Yup, Magnetospeed is the way to go. What was your SD on the tight group load?
 
Thank you all.. I had an RCBS ammo master chrono.. It was corny and really a pain to set up so I really did not use it much.. The v3 is so easy to use and quick to set up once get the spacers figured out for ones barrel..

The 3/16 group had an sd of 23. I shot that one about 5 minutes after the 1/2 inch group and re adjusted the scope.. 1/2 had an SD of 25..
I should of fired all 6 rounds of the 27.6 at one target and seen how it would of done instead of a 5 min breather to walk down and check the target and put new one up..

I will get out there this week again with another batch of 27.6.. Also I will run some brand new and prepped, primer holes uniformed and de-burred and FL size the Hornady brass and see if can duplicate the above..

As for anneal the brass, I have never done that before.. I think an AR is harder on brass than a bolt. My brass gets all marked up from this AR.. I will have to check the brass on the mmr hunter, But I don't remember the brass being all beat up like this 204 brass..

But the magneto chrono is another great piece of equipment that is actually a great to have and again not a chore to set up.. Again thank you... Dan
 
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Originally Posted By: dan158
As for anneal the brass, I have never done that before.. I think an AR is harder on brass than a bolt. My brass gets all marked up from this AR.. I will have to check the brass on the mmr hunter, But I don't remember the brass being all beat up like this 204 brass..


where exactly is your brass gettin beat up? at the case mouth? on the body? the case rim?

depending on the issue there are ways to tune things to manage the brass abuse.

pics can be very helpful
 
Originally Posted By: Plant.OneOriginally Posted By: dan158
As for anneal the brass, I have never done that before.. I think an AR is harder on brass than a bolt. My brass gets all marked up from this AR.. I will have to check the brass on the mmr hunter, But I don't remember the brass being all beat up like this 204 brass..


where exactly is your brass gettin beat up? at the case mouth? on the body? the case rim?

depending on the issue there are ways to tune things to manage the brass abuse.

pics can be very helpful

At the case mouth they split down the neck..I will post back on the AR forum
 
if you're referring to the post in this thread http://www.predatormastersforums.com/for...676#Post2960676

i think i asked in the other thread for your load recipe for those - now that you mention the two issues are related - the split necks as well as the other issues (cratered primers, extractor/ejector marks) - it leads me to believe more that you're running them a bit on the hot side as i suspected based on the primer pics.


please post your load recipe there so that we can help you sort it out.
 
I dropped down to 26.6 and worked up to 27.5 of H4895.. I am getting ejector marks and burrs on the rim as with the higher loads of 27.6.... The speeds I was getting was low 3540 AVg up to 3788 avg.. At 27.0 gr of H4895 my average was 3641 with a SD of 8.7 but my group was .75.. 3 shots in about 3/8 and 2 singles off to open it up to .75..These was 5 shot groups today..

But I am still getting the same results of my brass.. I am using cci magnum ,small rifle primers also.. Dan
 
what bullets are you loading? What OAL? are you crimping? if so how much?


just your charge, a bullet weight, powder type and primer type is incomplete load data.


please be as specific and as detailed as possible on your load info for us.
 
Something just occurred to me...about what angle are the empties ejecting? C.onsider the muzzle at 12 O'clock.
 
Originally Posted By: HedgeDan, why are you using magnum primers? H4895 works just fine with Rem 7 1/2.

I have one box of a 100 rem 7 1/2 left.. Those are hard to find around here and the cci magnums are available.. I read that some actually using cci magnum also because of the thicker cups for the AR.. As for what time the shells are ejecting.. 4:30... If I turn the block down to get them to eject before that, the bolt does not stay open..

Also My recipe of my loads are couple posts up.. Thank you all. Dan
 
Ok, understood on the availability. Just so you know, though, the Rems have a thick enough cup to handle an AR.
 
I don't know now if loads are hot.. I found this on the AR sight.. The split necks I been getting I looked at my brass and sure enough I have grooves longer than the ones in the pics..

My marks on bottom of case also the same.. I am going to see if I have an O ring also and remove it and as been mentioned on here, clean up my extractor so it has no sharp edges and digs into the brass when ejecting..

Also I will clean up the barrel extension lugs..

Wouldn't one think when buy a custom barrel and pay a nice price for it that it would be polished up and no sharp edges along with the matching bolt be the same way?

AR,com
 
Seems to be good info. I'm a little confused about the neck issue. Are your necks really split or just have grooves in them?

Yeah, I'd think a custom barrel would be finished properly.
 
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