HELP PLEASE!-Ruger Super Redhawk scope mount problems

Kizmo

Kizmo

New member
As I mentioned in the .454 Casull thread, I've just bought a new Ruger Super Redhawk in .454 Casull. I'm planning to take it on my black bear hunt in New Mexico in 2015,and will use it locally for whitetails and hogs. I also bought a Leupold VX3 2x8 handgun scope for it. I figured I'd probably never use the upper end magnification for hunting, but 'tis better to have and want not than to want and have not.

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I followed the Ruger scope mounting instructions to the letter and got the scope sort of sighted in at 100 yards with Hornady 240 grain XTP's before I got rained out. When I got home, I found both the bases and the rings were loose, and the scope had slipped to the rear 1/4". Just some black smudges that wiped off. No problemo. I reset the scope and re-tightened the bases and the ring screws. I did not use Loc Tite because the Ruger instructions didn't call for it. I also didn't "King Kong" it, because (A) I ain't that strong and (B) I figured this was just some inevitable "settling in" and it wouldn't be a problem any more.

The next day, I took it out and practiced shooting with it in a sitting position at 50 yards without a rest, again with the Hornadys. I started getting pretty jazzed up. Definitely dead bear at 50 yards. BTW, the "flyer head shot" on the left was at another circle I was practicing double action freehand.

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When I got home, I found that the scope had slipped in the rings again, and the front base screw was loose. The ring screws may have been a little loose, but not like before. Looking more closely, I got a sick feeling in the pit of my stomach. Instead of just a black smudge on the scope finish where it had slipped, I saw bare shiny steel where a pebbly silver matte finish should be, and there was a line of rolled thin metal at the end of this. The scope had slipped in the rings and peeled the electroplate metal finish off the scope tube. To add to my horror, I found that the Ruger rings had put "bites" in the frame notches.
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What would you guys do? I'm at a total loss!! HELP!!!
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Thank you in advance for your suggestions.
 
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Try one of these I had one on my 44mag from Weigand Combat very tough and you can use Burris Signature Zee rings

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SRH454....Black......(for the .480 Ruger and .454 Casull).............$59.95

you can also use 3 or 4 rings (gun is not mine)
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I've run into the same problems with a 454 myself, as suggested you could try a base like above with some better rings. Went through a few sets before I found one that would hold a scope no matter how tight I cranked the screws down, it's been 6 or more years and can't remember what I ended up with, gun is long gone now. Do remember using some cheap old weaver quad locks that might have actually got the job done but they marr scopes up every time
 
Thanks Rich & Nevernoluck. I've ordered a Weigand rail and 3 sets of Burris Signature Z rings.

bambambam-I now understand why at least half the handgun hunting pics I see are scopeless. I'm pretty confident out to 50 yards with iron sights, but I'm trying to be reliable at 100, which is beyond my current comfort zone with iron sights. If my new setup doesn't work, I'll just have to start practicing at that range. BTW, do you use factory iron sights or peep sights?

What do y'all think about the area of the scope that is currently unfinished? Will it rust, etc.? Do I need to do anything about that?
 
Originally Posted By: Kizmo

What do y'all think about the area of the scope that is currently unfinished? Will it rust, etc.? Do I need to do anything about that?

Is the scope tube actually steel? I thought they were aluminium, but I could be wrong.

Given the situation, I would be tempted to repaint the scope with a matte silver color. It's not going to be a factory job, but it'd look fine.

I've been using a Contender handgun for years and I found out right away that handguns have a way of undoing almost any scope mount. I've shot both rings and bases loose and so if you look on handgun hunting boards, there's lots of "belt and suspenders" approaches to scope mounting.

I put Loctite Blue into the threads of every mounting screw on rings and base before screwing it in. Then I put more drops of loctite blue onto heads of any recessed screws to make it harder for them to spin in the recesses.

Also, I've found it's good just to get into the habbit of checking that everything is tight. Rock the scope base, examine the rings, etc. Doesn't prevent anything but gives you the opportunity to fix things before a trophy shot presents itself.

Grouse
 
Thanks guys. I had always thought those tubes were steel. Aluminum makes a lot more sense.

I'm not too worried about looks. That sucker is going to be ringed from the end of the ocular to the end of the objective. Since y'all have pointed me in the right direction, I've found pics of scopes with 4 rings on them. That's what I'm going to do. The ugly spots won't even show.

Grouse-I was going to use Loctite purple. I thought blue was permanent. If you need to get the scope off or out of the rings, can you do it with blue? I generally don't use Loctite and this is the only gun I've had a problem with. I'm Loctite ignorant.
 
Blue isn't permanent Red & Green are, Blue or Purple should be ok, I have a Contender in 445 Supermag with a TSOB mount from SSK that I did have to use Red on If I ever get rid of it the mount can go with it.
The first time I shot it the whole scope & mount left the gun after 5 shots and SSK installed it.
 
Had the same problem with mine get a 1 piece base i think mine was a weigand. I know thread lock did not help I think it is just to much recoil for the little half moon slots to mount the scope. I had the 454 and my buddy still has his 44 and he never had a problem. the one piece base did solve the problem.
 
Blue Loctite is what I use. In a pinch I have a bottle of Revlon Epoxy 1000 nail polish that I use. Trick I learned working at a gunshop. Also I always coat the inside of my rings with Rubber Cement (office supply store/supermarket) this reduces any marring to some extent. Also helps reduce slippage, whatever squishes out when you tighten can be easily removed with a fingernail or toothpick.
 
I use red loctite on everything and not once had a problem removing any scope base, I know I know it's permanent and requires heat blah blah blah, works for me
 
I use the factory sights.You will just have to practice shooting at 100 yards or more.It can be done, the confidence you will have from that is great.Makes hunting a lot more exciting.I even take it out on coyote stands.
 
Well, I just wanted to update this post and thank everybody for their suggestions. I bought a Weigand mount and 2 sets of Burris signature Z rings and took the whole load to my gunsmith. Unfortunately, he was able to only get 3 rings on the mount.
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I took it out and sighted it in yesterday. Hot as blue blazes and gnats were everywhere. They seemed to be especially attracted to my right eye every time I was about to pull the trigger. This was my last group. I was pretty satisfied, but I'd have been more satisfied if I'd quit at 5. Even with the flier, it's about 4.6".

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Of interest, I sighted it in with 260 grain Fusions. The backstop is a hard red clay bank that is [beeep] on bullets. I dug through it and recovered a couple. They all pretty much look like this.

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I'm pretty impressed.

Anyway, thank you all for your suggestions. I've now fired about 60 rounds with the new scope mount, and it hasn't moved a hair.
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