Hornady Lock & load and comparators

Lodgepole

New member
I suppose I am just tired of the caveman process of bullet seating (smoking bullets etc) I only load for 22 or 6mm so not many of the cases to buy. Are you folks sold on this product ? Also considering a seating die with the clicks instead of the clumbsy rcbs set screw and knurled lock nut . Is this a big improvement ?
 
The Sinclair Seating Depth tool is far superior to the Hornady set up. I used the H.system for years until Ritch introduced me to the Sinclair.

A Redding Micrometer Seater is a great improvement. I have several but my goto seater is the Hornady with the floating chamber with the accessory micrometer seating stem.

Greg
 
Are you referring to the comparator kit to measure off the ogive instead of the tip or the seating depth tool (I recommend both either way)? If you are talking about the comparator kit, yes it is a pretty good kit especially for the price. I use it for anything I load Berger VLDs for because instead of measuring off the inconsistent tip of the VLD, it measure off of the ogive. As far as a microseater stem, I couldn't agree more with Greg. They are a very handy tool especially with a VLD stem and VLD bullets (or any bullets really) because it seats off the ogive. Helps keep everything a little more consistent especially if you pair them together. If these are not the tools you are talking about, just disregard all my comments hah.
 
I concur with shelton573. I use check the measurement to the ogive on every different bullet I shoot and keep records of what they are.
 
By combining the Sinclair number and the Hornady comparator numbers you can adjust your seating depths on a given bullet. Getting that initial MAX COL and getting that ogive measure you can deal with the vagaries of varied tip length.

It takes me about 2 minutes to get a good seating depth now. I have a specific case for each chamber and the bullet I use is kept for future reference. With the Sinclair I can easily follow the throat erosion as things progress.

Greg
 
That's how I set headspace when forming wildcat brass (or putting a barrel on a Savage). Used it once in the long, long ago time for seating depth, but only just that once.

- DAA
 
I use the Hornady Lock & Load depth gauge and bullet comparators on all of the calibers I reload. They make a big difference in determining the measurement of where your bullet Ogive touches the lands and then backing off whatever distance from your lands you need to in order to get the best accuracy from a specific load.
Using them has made a difference in me knowing accurately where I am at when working up loads for accuracy.
All in you will probably spend 60-75 dollars including your modified cases depending on how many you need and to me that is a small price to pay to know specific measurements.
 
Originally Posted By: WyoBullI use the Hornady Lock & Load depth gauge and bullet comparators on all of the calibers I reload. They make a big difference in determining the measurement of where your bullet Ogive touches the lands and then backing off whatever distance from your lands you need to in order to get the best accuracy from a specific load.
Using them has made a difference in me knowing accurately where I am at when working up loads for accuracy.

Try the bolt lift method in the YouTube link I posted and get back to us.
It won’t cost anything.

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fw 707,I do not take things apart unless I need to (FP and Extractor ).I have too much farm and haying machinery to fix now !I'm gonna get that Hornady stuff and some brand of micrometer dial seating die !Lodgepole
 
I've been using the Hornady seating depth tool for a long time and it works well for me.

But, I don't use their generic modified cases, I always use a piece of brass that's been fired in my gun and have it drilled and tapped, that way it fits perfectly in the chamber and I get consistent measurements every time. Whenever I've tried to use the generic store bought modifired case gauges they never fit snug in the chamber and my measurements are all over the place.

Also, I generally pre sort all my bullets by ogive length, for me, it makes getting consistent seating depth a lot easier.
 
I watched the video, great way to do it as well. Not sure that I want to remove the extractor and firing pin on all my bolts though. Thanks for sharing the video.
 
WyoBull
For Rem 700 type actions, get that Kleinendorst bolt removal tool and a set of 3 mini punches. You’ll have it disassembled in a minute. That bolt removal tool is also good just to have around for safety purposes, like when your checking feeding of live rounds from magazines through the action.
 
I use that method for setting up my sizing dies. If you have the proper tools, it's very easy to remove the firing pin and ejector.
 
Originally Posted By: B23I use that method for setting up my sizing dies. If you have the proper tools, it's very easy to remove the firing pin and ejector.

Based on my results on a couple of TL3’s, it would probably be worth taking the time and trouble to use the method on other types of bolts that require a little more effort to disassemble.

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