How do you keep non-target species out of coyote sets??

BohunterNY

BohunterNY

New member
My elderly neighbor raises chicken, rabbits and Guineas. He also has recently allowed me the sole access to his farm for the purpose of trapping some coyotes.

I made about a half dozen of dirt hole sets and baited them with Grimshaw's minced mice and a skunky bait (Rolling Thunder by White Owl). I also added some coyote gland

A day later I was removing one of his cats off my set and let it go with a mangled foot. The gentleman was pretty gracious about the whole thing, but I want to avoid this in the future.

If I use only coyote gland without any other food-based bait, can I be confident that I won't get any non-target species.
, etc...

What else ca I use that is only attractive to canines but does not interest house cats(If catch his cats again I would have to excuse myself and remove my sets from his property. His dogs are in kernels and never roam free.)
 
Tighten your pan tension to 4lbs. You should see fewer non target animals, still catch coyote or fox with this tension, try steel screen pan covers. I see all the time that skunks dig out my dirt hole, didn't catch the skunks, this year, one skunk last yr, my tension is closer to 3lbs.
 
there is no way to totally avoid non target catches...tac is right use heavier tension..

going with flat sets that use urine and gland lure will help also

if their are barn/feral cats around you are gonna have a hard time running coyote sets w/o them messing with them
 
Thanks, I'll try tightening the pan tension. But how do you get them all uniform at 3-4#? The pan tension screw is not the most precise adjustment... just wondering

Also, would cats be interested in coyote gland???
 
But how do you get them all uniform at 3-4#? The pan tension screw is not the most precise adjustment... just wondering


get you a dry 2x4 and cut it at 4 ft. a dry 2x4 is roughly 1 pound per 12 inches.


a flat set will help cut down on the cats, there are also other sets out there that will keep you from getting them 99% of the time, heres one

get you a clump of grass, roots and all, I am talkin one of them big clumps, put it in a 5 gal bucket. when you get to the spot you want to make your set, put in a fake dirthole with bait and lure, then take your bucket and go 10 ft from the dirthole, basicly after you make the mock dirthole, stand up and turn around and walk out 6 to 10 ft. take the clump out of the bucket, dig a small depression for the root ball to sit in, place clump in the depression and pack the dirt in to make it solid, once that is down, dig ya a trap bed out 6-8 inches and to the side 6 inches, bed your trap solid and blend in well, DO NOT USE ANY URINE OR ANY THING AT THIS SET. it will be a natural set. it is a K9's habit to urinate on something when they find food, so they can find it again. with nothing at the true set, it wont attract anything but the yotes and foxes. give it a try. it should save you from lossin this farm. Good luck and happy trapping.
 
Thanks Jeff and everyone else.

(I never heard of coyotes entering a live trap... maybe I got something to learn - never said I knew it all ;-)


God bless! D.
 
I have a tool made for and sold by O'Gorman's. It is hooked on the pan and can be set off without hitting the tool. I found most of my Bridgers and NW #3 traps were close to 3lbs when I couldn't tighten the screw much more.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeff ErwinBut how do you get them all uniform at 3-4#? The pan tension screw is not the most precise adjustment... just wondering


get you a dry 2x4 and cut it at 4 ft. a dry 2x4 is roughly 1 pound per 12 inches.


a flat set will help cut down on the cats, there are also other sets out there that will keep you from getting them 99% of the time, heres one

get you a clump of grass, roots and all, I am talkin one of them big clumps, put it in a 5 gal bucket. when you get to the spot you want to make your set, put in a fake dirthole with bait and lure, then take your bucket and go 10 ft from the dirthole, basicly after you make the mock dirthole, stand up and turn around and walk out 6 to 10 ft. take the clump out of the bucket, dig a small depression for the root ball to sit in, place clump in the depression and pack the dirt in to make it solid, once that is down, dig ya a trap bed out 6-8 inches and to the side 6 inches, bed your trap solid and blend in well, DO NOT USE ANY URINE OR ANY THING AT THIS SET. it will be a natural set. it is a K9's habit to urinate on something when they find food, so they can find it again. with nothing at the true set, it wont attract anything but the yotes and foxes. give it a try. it should save you from lossin this farm. Good luck and happy trapping.


Don't listen to Jeff he can't caught a yote!...I'm only teasing!!!

This is a good set
 
Originally Posted By: BohunterNYThanks Jeff and everyone else.

(I never heard of coyotes entering a live trap... maybe I got something to learn - never said I knew it all ;-)


God bless! D.

I've live Traped them before on a farm were I could only use live traps. It's a big trap with a small cage at the top far end. I caught a rabbit in a live trap and put it in the cage and then set the trap. The coyotes will try and get the rabbit and they end up walking in the trap. The rabbits unharmed and u can let if go after or make some stew.

Works good also for coyotes in areas too close to houses to shoot, and it makes it so you don't have to worry about non target catches.
 
ain't but 4 or 5 pictures on the net of coyotes in cages...

i know some excellent cage trappers too.....

now... i am not doubting you caught one by any means.. all i am saying is that it is VERY rare..

there are lots of ways to help out with not catching unwanted... none of them are full proof
 
The trap is my attic right now. I'll get pics sometime when I pull it out.

I don't really have problems catching them in live traps. I've caughted 7 between last year and this year.

I spray the cage with scent blocker and I place it along the fense line. Then I lean sticks and such around the top and sides but leave it open enough for it able to see and smell the rabbit.
 
gee PM, give me some credit
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Bryan, if you use that set up here in Ohio it will get you a ticket, and you are the exception to the rule on yotes in cages.

yotes are easy to catch, just go out and make sets for possums and you'll get yotes
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think about it, you catch grinners in yotes sets, so why not yotes in grinner sets?

the most important thing in trapping yotes is to trap clean, make sure your traps are clean, your set is clean, You aint going to be able to keep the area scent free, you human odor will be at the set for 24 hours after you make the set. so theres NO WAY to not tell Mr Songdog, you was there. heck some of the best sets are the ones a yote/fox relates to humans and food, like the campfire set. in snow they will beat then selves to death to get to that one :thumbup

I've been in this game to long to beleive that you have to be completely 100% scent free to catch a K9. you don't need the gloves, rubber boots, pads to kneel on, all you need is clean traps and to be on location. good luck and happy trapping.
 
gee PM, give me some credit
Have you learned to trap yotes in high heels yet?
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from the rest of what Jeff said I'd agree with him 100% except than I'd have to admit it.


KSboy
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I had quite a few yotes last year go right by flags and feathers to get into my cat sets lured with Cat Gland. But, I understand you're not wanting to catch his [beeep] cat so, I would agree that pan tension is key.
 


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