Originally Posted By: B23Good call, I like it.
But for me, I have an even easier method. I just have every single rifle I own bed, usually, as soon as I get it and often before I ever fire a single round through it. If done right, having a rifle bed only helps things and for the ones I shot before and after, I've yet to have one not shoot better after it was bed.
This may be surprising to some but rifles I have with alum. bedding blocks like the HS Prec. benefited the most from being skim bed. It was a bit of a surprise but usually the action only makes contact at a couple spots and the rest of the action isn't touching anything but those high spots. After a light skim bed, they're solid as a rock!
ackleyman, have you noticed the same when dealing with stocks that have alum. bedding blocks?
I bed everyone before I fire a shot. 9 out of 10 "HS" type stocks with the bedding blocks need bedding. I have only seen two in my life that shot 1/4"-3/8" groups without a skim coat bed. The bedding block is usually tilted from front to back, and side to side out of alignment. Just think about how difficult it would be to install a bedding block in a stock perfectly and still have the cost reasonable. With the method above that I illustrated, if you feel anymore than just a very tiny amount of movement, then your groups are suffering horribly. If the magazine box is pushing up on the action, you are in a bad state of affairs in terms of accuracy. Trigger pins touching the stock, trigger housing touching the floor plate, Action screws touching the stock, all change harmonics. I have seen some people bed the tang and the area just behind the lug and they guessed that the area inbetween was freefloating, but the stock touching the action in those areas will also have an effect on harmonics.
In an un bedded stock, If the recoil lug is not fully seated up against the stock, your point of impact will change in a big way, especially if one side of the lug is touching indicating that the action is twisted in the stock.
