Is there a clean burning reloading powder?

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pepprdog

New member
Why is it that my guns are so much more sooted up with my hand loads than with factory loads. This has bugged me for quite a while and the guys around here are clueless like myself. I've talked to my gun dealer and they told me "That's the way it is".
We're supposed to get the same powder as the factory guys....aren't we?
Is one manufacturer's line cleaner burning or is each powder unique even within the same line.
We're really limited in our area, only one shop handles powders, very limited Winchester, Hogden & Alliant.
Thanks guys, I'm really enjoying this forum. I'm getting many answers I haven't been able to find before.
 
I know some years ago it was common to get dirty powders, but I haven't noticed it in years. I use IMR 4198, 4064, 4350, 4895, and 4831. They all burn clean as does Hodgdons Varget, Reloder 7 and 19. VihtaVouro 550, 560. I'd be interested in knowing if you find any of them dirty. Best wishes.

Cal - Montreal
 
The extruded (long grain) powders usually burn much cleaner than the ball powders. The ball powders do burn cleaner in hotter loads. From what I have seen the VihtaVuori powders are by far the cleanest burning.

Those factory powders are usually different from what we can buy.

Jack
 
Thanks guys, I just wish we had more choices around here. another question, does a hotter load burn cleaner? I'm using light/medium loads so far but am moving hotter to see what that does for accuracy with my particular guns.
 
You may not be getting good powder ignition. Try some different primers or if you're using reduced loads try a little Dacron (pillow stuffing) to fill the case. Stuff a little on top of the powder charge and push it in the case with a small dowel. That will keep your powder tight against the primer for better ignition. Good luck.
 
pepprdog
A lot of powders burn cleaner in hotter loads. Another possibility is that you do not have enough neck tension to get good ignition. You should not be able to move the bullet in the case with less than about 50 pounds of force.

Jack
 
Pepperdog I have had my best luck with Bl c(2)
from hodgdons this gives me the most consistant
accuaracy and it is always real clean,also listen
to the master ,he has spoken /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Mr.Roberts sugested that you try diferent primers ......
I most definitly concour. For the extra little money that thay cost go for the MATCH primers
thay are more consistant,more accuratly made also thay are usually the companys cleanest
most (non corosive) of all there products
hope this helps.....shoot'em up
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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Lee only suggests to use Winchester and CCI primers. I'm using a powder that fills at least most (80%-90%) of the case's volume. accuracy is very good but it's dirty & fairly difficult to clean, something I think I can live with(not really).
 
There are so many variable involved in reloading that you could spend a whole lot of time, money, & barrel life trying to get "the best load". I tmay not be the load at all. If you've got a factory barrel that has not been lapped you're going to get alot of crud in the barrel until it smoothes itself out or you have it lapped. On the primer thing, I use both Federal & CCI Match primers. Federal works better for me with H-380 and CCI seams to jump start the Varget a little better. You have to match the primer to the load not the loading machine.
 
I crimp my loads fairly well, I learned what happens when you overcrimp....three ruined cases. I'm also trying to find the best overall length by chambering an empty case with the bullet pretty loose in the case. it seems a little long but the crimp just fits within the band on the bullet. I know this is probably a shot in the dark but does anyone have any experience with the:
300 Winchester Short Magnum? Savage 16FSS
.44 Remington Mag for the Ruger Deerfield?

You guys are great and i really appreciate all the information I've already gotten...thanks!
 
hello pepprdog.
You might try not crimping your case neck at all. I dont crimp any rifle ammo that's not going thru a semi-auto. I have had better accuracy by just neck sizing my brass, and no crimp. I use an RCBS neck size die, and a Hornady bullet seating die. I can shoot walnuts all day at 150 yards with this combination.
Oh,yea, This is in my savage model 12 22-250.
 
pepprdog,
I agree with High-Desert Song Dog, on NOT crimping your rifle cases. I've never crimped my rifle cases.

A general rule with any powders:
Use faster burning powders for light weight bullets i.e. IMR-3031 and slower burning powders for heavy weight bullets i.e. IMR-4895.

Also, you mentioned "We're supposed to get the same powders as the factor guys...aren't we?". The answer to that is NO. The factory ammo guys use a custom blend of powder made for them by a gun powder manufacturer for their exclusive use. With most manufacturers ammo, if you'd take a cartridge apart there's stick, ball, etc. all in one cartridge. It looks like the swept up the floor and used a mixed bag of what ever they found.

Another good reason to reload your own. If you use known component manufacturers, you'll have the same load for 20+ years and the accuracy you want, ammo availability and no lot changes from one month to the next.

Good hunting, Bowhunter57
 


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