Kill Light & Scan Light purposes?

Kevin2

New member
Can someone explain the differences between the 2 lights?

Scan light VS Kill Light

The halo sheild for spilling light thing too, not sure what one needs it OR doesn't & how to approach that subject with both scanning and killing too.

I get the scan light I think, but not completely clear to be honest! I'd rather just ask. I won't waste as much time learning the hard way when I go out at night then! Thanks
 
Here's how I do it. It's not the only way and not saying it's the right way but it's what I do.

I scan with a headlamp. A light that is on from the time I leave the truck untill I get back or at least while I'm still in an area I can or am hunting. It's sole purpose is to find eyes of an approaching predator. I also carry a handheld red LED that is brighter than my headlamp when I want to reach out a little farther.

Kill light or shooting light is attached to my gun and only comes on for when I plan to shoot. My shooting light is brighter than both my scanning lights and allows me to identify what I'm shooting at and take the shot. I try to get this on my target as soon as I can. If possible I'll even turn off my scanning light.

I use a halo shield on my headlamp because the beam angle is wide. If hunting with a partner or against a hedgerow or any other object it cuts down the spill and keeps me form illuminating anything while I'm scanning.

If you stand against a wall and shine your light directly away from the wall at some one standing 100 yards away no light is visible on the wall. All they see is a light source and they're blinded to what's behind it. If however you turn in either direction that light will contact the wall and illuminate it to some degree. I don't know if it makes a difference but if I can see it I assume predators can also.
 
that helps, thanks. I'd love to hear some other methods too.

I don't use a headlamp any longer. However, I'd be interested in the opinions on the use of a handheld scanning light & the use of a halo shield with that sort of set up.
 
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For something that's a little different, I run a little different than pmack's technique.

Here's the idea: At night, stand in your house with the lights on, and look out the window into the dark. What can you see? Now go stand in the darkness outside and look into your house through a window (lights on). What can you see?

If I have a lot of light at my position, then I need a LOT of light at my target (looking out your window during the day).

My technique is based around shooting from darkness into the light, so I want as little light near me as possible. It's amazing what you can see in the dark under just starlight if you don't have stray light sources killing your natural night vision. From a "medical" standpoint, the rods (grayscale) in your eyes are incredibly powerful, assuming you can completely deactivate your cones (color). Pull your cell phone out at night and you won't be able to see jack squat.

Stray light near your position also gives away your movement or shape. So I use shrouds to make sure I don't have any stray light near me to flood out my night vision or give away my position.

I prefer an incandescent lamp as a scan light out of habit. I grew up using the technique that I'd hover the dim halo of a scan light to glare their eyes as I scan the horizon, then drop the brilliant center beam onto the target just before the shot.

The kill light should be something bright enough to see very well through my scope, or sights. I prefer to not use illuminated reticles when using a light, but do prefer a DIM illuminated reticle if I'm hunting my moonlight. Same deal there, I don't want stray light near my position.

More than one way to skin that cat, but that's the theory behind why I do it the way I do.
 
I too use a headlamp, but only when using a shotgun. When using a rifle i prefer a scan light mounted to a mono-pod. I hunt alone and having the light mounted to the pod frees up my left hand to do other things like run a remote, hand call, etc. With the monopod my rifle is up and ready, while scanning underneath. It is not pictured, but I do use a shield as well so that it wont light up my rifle above the light. For a shooting light I use the kill light 250. it has a long smooth reflector to throw the light way out there. A scan light doesn't need to be as powerfull. It only needs to illuminate eyes.

Predator.jpg
 
My method is similar to pmack's except I have two headlamps and no handheld. I also don't use a halo on my scan light, just my gun mounted shooting light. My second headlight is a cheap Coleman 3 color LED light that I use to see blood or look for dropped objects or use to locate stuff in my pack. It is not near as intense as the XLR scan light when used at a distance of a few feet. I keep it pointed rearward until I need it. It is really handy when trying to unlock gates too
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. I don't use a handheld light on stand since my rifle is up to my shoulder and in the shooting sticks. I just pan my head left to right looking for eyes and operate the scope mounted light and my call remote with my non-trigger hand.

I'm still tuning my process as the hat mounted light is a new thing for me, but it seems to work pretty well. Kirk McKendree has an interesting setup where his kill light is mounted on a monopod shooting stick. Here is a post with a picture of it. It obviously works as I have seen him post multiple kill pictures with it in the past.
PA Foxes
 
Thanks, those explanations are helpful. If anyone else has any input, it surely can't hurt.

K
 
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In Colorado i use a green or red XLR250 Kill Light for scanning.

Once i see the eyes i light up my Laser Gentic ND3X50 Subzero and it's lights out!


In Nebraska i use my Flir PS32 and D740 Gen3 NV set up and it's lights out!
 


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