Knife sharpening with Edge Pro

H

Howard Nguyen

New member
Has anyone used the Edge Pro system to sharpen your knives?

http://www.edgeproinc.com/

I am too clumsy to free hand sharpen my knives with a tri-stone and the Lansky system takes just too much time to get one done.

This Edge Pro system is rather expensive, I'd like to get first hand advice before shelling out the moolah to get one. Thanks in advance for your feedback.
 
I'm not sure how it's easier or faster to use than a Lansky. It would be better if you were sharpening a LOT of knives like in a butcher shop or something like that.

I use a Lansky to put the edge on a hunting knife and then just a diamond stone to touch it up for the rest of the hunting season.

The edges I put on with with my Lansky are as sharp as good quality factory edges and generally take me about an hour to put on the first time when I'm setting up my first 20 degree edge that I like and then after that it's rarely more than a 10 minute job to maintain that edge.

I'd recommend the diamond Lansky system. Works a lot faster than the "regular" system.

$bob$
 
I really like using a spyderco knife sharpener. It is fairly easy to master and does a good job. It would be a lot quicker than the edgeproinc, and probably cheaper. They sell for around $50-$60.
 
The Edge Pro is a very good system. It will put a high polish edge on and do it very precisely. However, it is not a quick system to setup or use. And, it is fairly expensive.

I'll second the Spyderco SharpMaker. Super simple, very fast and easy to use, and it flat out works. It comes with a video to explain its uses and methods. The only downfall is that it takes a long time to reprofile a blade to the same angles as the SharpMaker uses, or to work over a badly damaged or chipped edge. Luckily most knives are pretty close to the two angles the SharpMaker has. Spyderco has also introduced diamond hones that can profile and bevel an edge very quickly. The diamond hones are expensive and a seperate item to purchase if you really think you need them. Personally, I don't fool with them since I have a Gatco system with diamond hones to profile an edge or use to remove large chips and burrs. The SharpMaker IMHO is well worth the money and works on an amazing variety of edged tools. Scissors, axes, all kinds of blade edges and sizes, grinds, ect.
 
I have the edgepro its the best sharpener i've ever used, i also have a spyderco sharpener and diamond sharpeners all have there place and and there goods and bads.


Gary
 
I sharpen a lot of knives. The Soyderco is the best that I have found. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinning-smiley-003.gif Use the course edge longer than you think you should the first time to get it down to the right angle.
Frank
 
Looking at the Spyderco I think the key to success is still being able to hold a consistent angle when you draw the blade on the stone. That is my problem. Somehow I just cannot keep it constant and the blade ends up being rounded out. I've tried various ceramic rod sharpeners and was not able to get a razor sharp edge.

The EdgePro seems to eliminate all guess work as the jig holds the angle of draw constant all the time. It is more like a Lansky on steroid allowing user to sharpen large and long blade instead of 4" to 5" limit.
 
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I've been using the EdgePro system for 15 years or more. It was recommended to me by a custom knife maker when I purchased one of his knives. When I bought mine it didn't come with the handy little stand so I bought it and screwed it to my work bench. If yours doesn't have the stand, get it. It helps a lot. I use mine to put the initial edge on and than use a Diamond EZ-Lap sharpening stick or just a good sharpening steel for touchup.
 
The SharpMaker doesn't require anything of you except to lightly stroke the blade straight down. It's really no big deal, just lay the edge on the hone and stroke down. With that said, there are no flies on the Edge Pro. It's a fine set-up and will do an excellent job. The drawbacks are that it cost more and takes more time to use it.
 
GC,

When you said "lightly stroke the blade straight down", do you mean to keep the blade at right angle to the ground (assuming the set up is on flat ground)?

Man, I dont know whether it is my shaky hands or my poor eyesight or may be both, I just cannot keep the blade perfectly in the same position as I draw it across the ceramic rod !!! The blade comes out sharper than before I started but it never get to the same sharpness as the original factory edge.
 
Howard,
Hold it straight up and down, then just draw down along the edge of the hone. I'm not trying to talk you out of an Edge Pro, they're excellent sharpeners. Just trying to explain the SharpMaker. I've never had trouble getting blades to hair poppin' sharp on the SharpMaker.
 
Thanks, GC. The Edge Pro sure is expensive. If I can get it as sharp as factory edge using just the ceramic rods as you do I'll be a happy camper...:))
 
This is a great subject. Once a person enjoys the luxury of a really sharp knife, it's impossible to go back to the typical half arse blade most people suffer with. All the various sharpening systems are good if the person using them knows what they are doing. Of course, that's the problem.

I've had some good success with a ceramic rod system that has course and fine rods which fit into pre drilled holes in a block of wood at the proper angles. I forget the name it's up north at my cabin. With a little experience, you can put a fine feathered edge from tip to handle that will blow you away. The secret is to be very careful not to roll that feathered edge any place up and down the blade. Easier said than done of course. Also, the laser type cutting qualities don't last very long.

The best knife guy I ever known is Melvin Dunn of Dunn knives. He uses an abrasive wheel to put an extremely perfect edge on a good blade that will keep it's fine edge longer than any other system in the world! Trouble is, I don't know how to use that wheel and instructions without actually seeing and unerstanding the concept won't get the job done. The next time Dunn Knives has a show at a trappers convention in Michigan I plan on attending and picking their brains on the subject....
 
Rick,
That is the problem with me...I have two left hands plus poor vision...:(

I know the abrasive wheel you mentioned. It is great if you have steady hands and good eyesight. It employs free hand method.

There is a sharpener using a horizontal water stone turning at very slow speed. This one has a steady rest, perhaps it may help maintaining the consistent angle of the edge.

Tormek also builds a very nice and precise motorized sharpener, but this one is even more expensive than the Edge Pro.
 
Howard

When I worked in a jewelry store I used to sharpen my knives on the same buffing wheels I used to polish jewelry, Finding the right angle to the dangle in direct proportion to the heat of the meat was difficult the first time but once you find it, it is easier the next time.You can buy buffing wheels at most near any place that sells tools and usually they have the rouge there also. Buy the rouge for steel, usually grey or black. Don't use the red stuff as it is for polishing gold,silver etc. Or if you like polishing metal the red will work. It's good as the final step.

Good luck.
 
BillyD,
Thanks for the tip.

Is it possible to use buffing wheel to set up the initial 20 degrees edge?

My blades are quite worn out. The original factory edge is gone and even the ceramic rods are unable to get that 20 degrees edge restored....well, unless I have enough patience to sit there and do it for a few days on one blade.
 
Howard,
I don't know much about buffing wheels. What you're asking about is to re-profile your bevel. That's best accomplished with a jig set up like the Edge Pro, Gatco, or Lansky. Then use course stones or medium diamond hones to work that edge into shape establishing the bevel angle that you want. In fact, you may want to go shallower intially to take the thick shoulders off the back of the bevels. Then come back and establish the angle on the actual cutting edge. You can use a black marker to color the edge and see if you're making progress.
 
GC nailed it. Use a jigged sharpener to first take the edge to a shallow profile. 15-18 degrees works well and will allow you to re-sharpen several times before knocking it back again. Then, depending on what you use your knife for, put a 25-30 degree finish edge on it. 25 degrees for regular pocketkinfe stuff, 30 degrees for a heavy duty working knife. With the 15-18 degree setback, later sharpenings will be quick and easy.
 
I've bought about every sharpening system available and finally broke down and spent the money on the Edge Pro. I wish I'd saved the other money and bought one initially. Its the easiest system I've used, has a wider stone than Lansky (although the design is quite similar) and has about 8 different grades of stones you can get. The initial $$ is shocking, but it'll last a life time. If you can afford one I highly recommend it. I even take mine with me to elk camp. It comes in a Cordura case that keeps everything in one place.
 


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