Layer question on clothes?

seasley

Active member
What do you guys recommend on against the skin layer system?

This will be worn in semi cold weather 30-40 degrees, mainly looking at drawers, but would like to know what all you guys use or brands you have had good luck with
 
for those temps i buy the cheap Russel brand stuff from walmart, light duty.

they're $10 per, tops or bottoms. it is moisture wicking so it keeps you dry at the skin and moves any sweat out. and boy does it work. couple years back we had a warm day and i was helping one of the guys track a deer. by the time we found it, i went to go take off my coat and it was DRENCHED - like i'd been out in the rain for an hour+. yet i was dry at the skin.

same for steelhead fishing this spring... warmed up and when i'd take my waders off, my outer layer under the waders (hoodie, bluejeans) was soaking wet from me sweating as the temps went up.
 
For a couple decades I have used merino wool with silk against the skin. Both can be had in several different weights or worn separately.
These have a broad comfort range and move moisture. Pooling sweat uphill and freezing downhill doesn't happen.
Merino wool also greatly reduces odors for days at a time.
One of the best things is the silk doesn't drag or bind and you would be surprised how much energy is saved plus the freedom gained.
These layers cost more but last a very long time. I have accumulated mine over the years at different stores, closeouts, and summer sales.
I have shown this to a few friends and they have been shocked at the benefits when they switched.
 
Light weight merino wool or silk. Certain brands and sizes (Tall or XL/XXL) can be hard to find so start looking early and buy it when you see it. Try Icebreaker, LL Bean, Cabelas, The North Face, Smartwool, Pategonia, REI, etc. Most synthetic blends start to stink after a while but you can go days in merino wool.
 
Another vote for merino wool. It does not retain odors like synthetics do, so one pair can get you by for a few days if needed. It is very comfortable as well. It keeps you warm if it gets wet and dries very quickly. The only down sides are cost and longevity. I use mine often and only get 2-4 years of use before they start getting somewhat thread bare. For brands I have only used Smartwool.
 
First Lite merino wool... I've worn synthetic stuff like U/A and Patagonia and while it works, I do strongly prefer merino wool. I like an athletic fit that's hugging the skin so it can wick that moisture away.
 
At those temps I don’t wear a base layer. Around 10 and lower I’ve got my silks from the army(surplus stores should have em) and when it was -10 I had my silks and waffle layer. -25 I had the same but switched my carhart jacket for my bear hide fleece from Alaska hard gear. That thing is a game changer! -25 I had a burly flannel from Duluth and the bear hide on top, Wal-Mart snow bibs, jeans, and silk bottoms. Felt like I was over heating on the top! And yes, I killed 3 when it was -25 out of 2 packs each with 5. Still searching for good socks as it’s my toes that freeze fastest.
 
Originally Posted By: HalbachAt those temps I don’t wear a base layer.

I don't either. Our morning temps here in the winter range from 20-40, but after the first few stands, you no longer need insulation. I usually just slip on some insulated overalls for the first 2-3 stands in the morning and then shuck them later when no longer needed.

ETA: If you insist on thermals, I'll second the notion of those inexpensive wicking underwear at Wal-Mart. Mine are Mossy Oak brand and work well at those temps. Below about 10 degrees, I like the dual layer synthetics. I keep threatening to try First Lite or other quality wool, but our temps don't justify it. Someday I'll get to hunt where it's colder and I'll spring for the good stuff.
smile.gif
 
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Like DR no base layer until it gets down in the teens. I do wear a pair of 200 Weight Polar Fleece camo five pocket pants. If There is heavy frost on the brush I'll slip on a pair of soft breathable chaps to keep the pant legs from getting wet. I don't stay on the stand long 15-20 min and stay warmer if I don't work up a sweat on the way into it.
 

Question about the merino wool - does it itch? I have worn wool in the past and it itched me to death. Maybe I'm missing something with merino?
 
I'd rather have a base layer and lighter weight shirt or jacket than do without the sweat wicking base.

Good quality wool doesn't itch me. Bad quality coarse wool does. Be it merino or whipcord, ect. if it comes from a company that knows it's stuff it's very comfortable. First Lite, Filson, Smartwool, Ice Breaker, companies like these produce quality products that are comfortable, high performance, quiet and long wearing.
 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
Question about the merino wool - does it itch? I have worn wool in the past and it itched me to death. Maybe I'm missing something with merino?



my merino socks dont itch at all. softer than my cotton socks.

have never had the pleasure of merino base layer though
 
Originally Posted By: 6mm06
Question about the merino wool - does it itch? I have worn wool in the past and it itched me to death. Maybe I'm missing something with merino?



Quality Merino ie Smartwool and others are soft non itch, more like soft jersey. I'd bet you'll find you've been missing out on something good.
I have regular old itchy wool shirts that I could't wear for 10 min without something under.
A layer of silk can be worn under it it too for another step up in luxury and warmth.
 
Just some info regarding the "itch factor" or lack there of for Merino wool .....

"The term merino is widely used in the textile industries, but it cannot be taken to mean the fabric in question is actually 100% merino wool from a Merino strain bred specifically for its wool. The wool of any Merino sheep, whether reared in Spain or elsewhere, is "merino wool". However, not all merino sheep produce wool suitable for clothing, and especially for clothing worn next to the skin. This depends on the particular strain of the breed. Merino sheep bred for meat do not produce a fleece with a fine enough staple for this purpose."

Here in lies the catch along with the grade of the wool. I have several sets and pieces which I can wear against my skin with no itch what so ever when doing light movement (about all I can do any more). All of these are very high grade garment items..... not being snotty but I mean VERY high grade. Ya get what ya pay for.

I do some of this backwards as I will wear a UA base and then the wool just to make an air pocket. If it gets cooler (20's and down) I will reverse that layer sequence. With my poor circulation this stuff rocks.... however feet and hands are still a bit of a problem. Hot packs in pockets for hands and I am pretty good so its mostly feet.

Just some thoughts......
 
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Originally Posted By: huntschoolJust some info regarding the "itch factor" or lack there of for Merino wool .....

"The term merino is widely used in the textile industries, but it cannot be taken to mean the fabric in question is actually 100% merino wool from a Merino strain bred specifically for its wool. The wool of any Merino sheep, whether reared in Spain or elsewhere, is "merino wool". However, not all merino sheep produce wool suitable for clothing, and especially for clothing worn next to the skin. This depends on the particular strain of the breed. Merino sheep bred for meat do not produce a fleece with a fine enough staple for this purpose."

Here in lies the catch along with the grade of the wool. I have several sets and pieces which I can wear against my skin with no itch what so ever when doing light movement (about all I can do any more). All of these are very high grade garment items..... not being snotty but I mean VERY high grade. Ya get what ya pay for.

I do some of this backwards as I will wear a UA base and then the wool just to make an air pocket. If it gets cooler (20's and down) I will reverse that layer sequence. With my poor circulation this stuff rocks.... however feet and hands are still a bit of a problem. Hot packs in pockets for hands and I am pretty good so its mostly feet.

Just some thoughts......



Huntschool, do you mind sharing what brand of merino you are using? Also what is the longevity of the higher grade fabric?
Thanks, DH

 
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I have been using the same Smartwool for hunting season annually for a decade over Cabelas Silk medium weight. Granted I am sitting and it is still in great shape.
I was gifted a pair of heavyweight Icebreaker brand Last christmas and they feel luxurious just waiting in the box.
I must say that Smartwool replaced the top and bottom free when I was injured. So the warranty works.
 
I think I've tried most of the fabric options out there and go an all out +1 for First Lite merino base layers. Very comfortable, no itch, can wear for many days with no noticeable odor. And I've been wearing them for years and still have and use the first set I bought, so for me they're pretty darn durable.

And you'd be surprised at how warm they keep you when you start the day, and how cool you stay after the day warms up...

wily
 
Dirty Hippie:

Sure....

I started with Justin Charles (100% Merino) back when they were part of Mathews. Then moved to First Lite when JC sort of went out of the picture and I wanted to add to my stash. The pricing when I bought the JC was then comparable to today's pricing on FL. There are more expensive garments out there but I do not think you can currently beat FL for quality or quality of product as wilydog has said. (I would also consider Icebreaker) However, dont bring a knife to a gun fight but on the other hand dont bring a .416 Rigby to a Prairie dog hunt either, if ya know what I mean.

I still have and use some of my original JC stuff so that goes to show how it stands up. Choose wisely for the conditions and your personal requirements. Staying warm is important so is staying comfortable.

I should add, one needs to follow laundry direction on these good wool garments. NO DRYERS if they are 100% merino. Ya dont want your well fitted men's large to turn into something that would fit your 10 year old daughter to a tee.

Just my thoughts......
 
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Thanks Huntschool, I'm going to try some First Lite for my next pair. I have not followed any special care procedures for my Smartwool, so it's possible that's why they don't last more than a few years. They do not shrink in the dryer though.
 
Dirty Hippie:

I may be wrong but "Smart Wool" is not 100% merino thats why they can be dried. I have not checked but you might want to check on the % of Merino in "Smart wool".

Just a thought.....
 


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