Mojo controlled by Foxpro Revisited

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wyoyotebuster1

New member
Just finished sodering the female 3.5 mil jack into the wiring on my mojo decoy. All I had to do to make the MOJO work with my CS-24/tx-500 remote was cut out the on/off switch and replace it with the female 3.5 jack.
I set my remote to the latched setting and then turned it on it works flawlessly. Now I push the AUX button to turn Mojo on and push it again to turn it off.
I did get rid of the on/off switch that came on mojo and I was able (with the help of a few small washers) to use the hole where the switch was to mount the female jack.
Because I no longer have an on/off switch I also built a male 3.5 mil jack that wires are run + to -. This completes the circuit and makes the MOJO run just like it does if you turn on the switch just in case I don't want to use MOJO with my remote.
The earlier post on this subject made this sound way more difficult than it was. The only thing you have to remember is if you hook the wires to the female jack and it doesn't work reverse the wires and it should work.
Field test (going hunting) tomorrow and will post how it works, i'm excited
 
Man I hope this is as easy as it seems
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Do you still have the battery in the mojo decoy and the FP realy is only a switch?

Seems to simple but man will this really help me out in my hunting. I love using mojos and now I have a was to use them what a new years gift!

Thanks

Hammer
 
hammer,

What Foxpro caller do you have? If you have a caller with the TX500 remote, then wyoyotebuster1's method as he described above is really as easy at it seems. If you don't have a caller with the TX500 remote it will still work, but you have to hold the AUX button down on your remote to keep the decoy on.

Using wyoyotebuster1's method the battery is still in the decoy. All you do is replace the on/off switch.
 
Originally Posted By: dwiseIf you don't have a caller with the TX500 remote it will still work, but you have to hold the AUX button down on your remote to keep the decoy on.

Does this go for the Spitfire TX-24 remote also?
 
Originally Posted By: Cabin FeverOriginally Posted By: dwiseIf you don't have a caller with the TX500 remote it will still work, but you have to hold the AUX button down on your remote to keep the decoy on.

Does this go for the Spitfire TX-24 remote also?

Yes. It will work with the Spitfire remote, but you have to keep the AUX button held down for the decoy to stay on.
 
Quote:"Yes. It will work with the Spitfire remote, but you have to keep the AUX button held down for the decoy to stay on."

It's actually worse than that... If you keep the timer circuit of the MJC intact, on a Spitfire Remote you'll have to hold the AUX button for at least that long (4 seconds?) to get the timer to trip. Gee, that doesn't sound like much fun... So on mine, I bypassed the timer and when I hit the AUX button for a 1/2 second or so, the MJC will give a spin. Hold it longer, it will spin until you release, and only spin when I hit the button.

That's the way I wired my MJC to my Spitfire, and so far, I am really happy with the setup. It gives me more control, the decoy doesn't spin all the time on a set cycle (boring...), it's really easy to keep your thumb on the AUX and hit it a few times every 5 minutes or so, and the MJC's batteries will last much longer.

Works for me...
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Old No7
 
This was with the TX500/CS24 Caller. I don't know if it will work on a spitfire but it works flawlesly with the tx500. Field tested today. No coyotes seen to try it out on but I turned it on at every stand and it worked up to 50yds away (I didn't put the caller or the decoy any farther than that).
The Mojo batteries are what powers the decoy. All I did was remove the on/off switch, couple the decoy to the caller with the 3.5 male to male cord, and switch the controller to the latched setting.
 
I think the loop on the Mojo critter is 2 seconds on/2 seconds off. On my Mojo critter decoy, the 2 seconds on portion happens when I first turn on the decoy, so you wouldn't have to disconnect the timer circuit if you didn't want to run the decoy for more than two seconds at a time. You would just need to hold the AUX button down for as long as you want to decoy to run (up to a maximum of 2 seconds at a time).

Not all of the Mojo critter decoys may act the same as mine does when you first turn it on. If the timer circuit is not designed to always start with the 2 seconds on portion, either the two seconds on or 2 seconds off portion of the loop could happen first. This is due to the fact that the components used in the circuit vary from circuit to circuit (just like different samples of the same binocular model may vary ever so slightly in optical quality). I suspect (guessing here) that the timer circuit may not have been designed to always have the on portion of the cycle first for two reasons:

1) The extra components required to make the timer circuit always start with the 2 second on portion would make the circuit board bigger and it would be tougher to fit into the decoy.

2) The decoy is designed to switch on and walk away from, so it doesn't matter whether the decoy starts spinning as soon as it is switched on or not.

The only way to know for sure is to look at the circuit. The circuit in mine is glued in and I don't want to tear it out. Maybe someone here has a Mojo Critter that acts differently than my decoy when it is first switched on and could let us know.

Old No7 I like the ability to spin the decoy exactly as long as one wishes that your bypassing of the timer circuit provides. Some people may want to still use their decoy as a stand-alone unit, so it would not work as well for them.
 
Mine comes on as soon as I depress the aux button. Turns on and off in the increments set by Mojo and then turns off when I push the aux button again.
The stand alone is accomplished by using a male 3.5 jack with the pos and neg wires sodered together. This completes the circuit and it acts just like the on off switch.
 
Originally Posted By: dwisehammer,

What Foxpro caller do you have?

I have the PB, Fury, Krakatoa, SCP, FX5 and FX3. I also have a WT.

Thanks for the input I have a project to do in this -20 degree day
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Hammer
 
Originally Posted By: wyoyotebuster1 The stand alone is accomplished by using a male 3.5 jack with the pos and neg wires sodered together. This completes the circuit and it acts just like the on off switch.


Do you mean solder the psitive to one side of the jack and the negative to the other side of the jack? I do not know how it would switch on and off if the 2 wires were soldered together.

Thanks

Hammer
 
Originally Posted By: dwisehammer,

What Foxpro caller do you have? If you have a caller with the TX500 remote, then wyoyotebuster1's method as he described above is really as easy at it seems. If you don't have a caller with the TX500 remote it will still work, but you have to hold the AUX button down on your remote to keep the decoy on.

Using wyoyotebuster1's method the battery is still in the decoy. All you do is replace the on/off switch.

Ok one last question before I fry my unit
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Do I have to worry about the tip being positive on this unit. The manual says if it is hook up backwards I can fry the unit.

Thanks so much,

Hammer
 
You need to be aware that the FET that acts as the switch for the AUX feature is only a 100ma rated transistor. The motor on the Mojo draws 189ma, so you are overloading the AUX switch circuit in your Foxpro by nearly double the amount that it was designed to handle. If you fry that circuit it is not covered by your Foxpro warranty.

Some guys are using the decoy and hoping that since they are not holding down the switch for long periods of time, they will be OK. Any time you overload the transistor you are creating more heat than it was designed to handle, thus reducing the life of it.

I emailed Foxpro about the possibility of using other decoys on their units and their reply was that the AUX jack was tested only with their Jack in the Box decoy and that the user should understand that if they used the AUX jack to control any other decoy, they were taking a risk of damaging their unit.

If you want to use the Mojo decoy with your Foxpro then you need to build a switching circuit to take the load off of the FET in your Foxpro or you will eventually burn out the circuit.

PS: If you decide to take the risk, your switch must be in the positive wire that goes to your battery. In other words, wire your 3.5mm cable into the + battery wire.
 
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Originally Posted By: Jackindistress
If you want to use the Mojo decoy with your Foxpro then you need to build a switching circuit to take the load off of the FET in your Foxpro or you will eventually burn out the circuit.



I think that would depend on the model of Foxpro caller a guy is going to use the Mojo with. If it's one of the callers that has the option of making the Aux a latched type circuit the above quote would not apply. (I think these would be any of the callers using the bigger TX500 type remotes)

If it is one of the callers that doesn't have the option of setting the Aux to latched and a guy was holding the button down to operate the decoy for long periods of time, it may well eventually burn out or damage the circuit. I believe these callers are using what is commonly called a momentary type circuit.

It seems to me there is a lot of confusion in this thread because guys are talking about wiring a decoy up to work with two different models of callers with two different types of Aux circuits in them. Maybe two seperate threads are needed for the two different types of wiring that need to be or should be done to get a decoy to operate properly and without damaging a caller. Or I could be wrong.
 


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