moly grease?

Billsauk

New member
I'm going to be putting together 2 ar uppers this Friday and I'm wondering where to get some moly grease? I plan on using it on the barrel nut threads, but I'm unsure what to buy for grease? Is this something I can pick up at the local napa store? Please let me know. Thanks Bill
 
I know we keep Moly grease at our NAPA store. We keep it in a grease gun cartridge but I am sure it can be ordered in different size containers.
 
Antiseize is what I use, $1.99 at most auto parts. I have never had an issue getting one back apart later, even after several yrs.
 
Originally Posted By: OrphanedcowboyAntiseize is what I use, $1.99 at most auto parts. I have never had an issue getting one back apart later, even after several yrs.

I even use it on the ball hitch on my pickup truck and the breach plug of my Savage muzzleloader
 
I have a 1#? tub of exxon moly grease that i have had and used for years. It doesnt contain graphite which may be problematic according to some threads i read over on barf15 .com. As i recall seems like the graphite will corrode aluminum?? Who knows. I used it recently on the barrel nut when building my .25/223. Seems like most any decent lube would work ok.
 
Originally Posted By: TnTnTnI have a 1#? tub of exxon moly grease that i have had and used for years. It doesnt contain graphite which may be problematic according to some threads i read over on barf15 .com. As i recall seems like the graphite will corrode aluminum?? Who knows. I used it recently on the barrel nut when building my .25/223. Seems like most any decent lube would work ok.

I think you have that backwards. Molybdenum disulfide which is the additive to Molly grease when mixed with water or heated produces hydrogen sulfide. This is the active ingredient in sulfuric acid. Sulfuric acid and aluminum don't work well together.
Graphite is basically a form of soft coal and also has good lubricating qualities without the add side effects.
 
Originally Posted By: OrphanedcowboyAntiseize is what I use, $1.99 at most auto parts. I have never had an issue getting one back apart later, even after several yrs.

I second that.
 
I'll pick up some antiseize instead of the moly grease. My parts just showed up today and I did a little test fit. The gas block fits real tight, so I did a little checking. I found a few recommend using a brake hone to make the block slide on easier. Is that the best solution for a tight fitting gas block?
 
You want the GB to be relatively tight. The seal on the port to the block should be close or else you will be leaking gas and that is not good.

Greg
 
alright I tried a few more times and finally got the gas block to slip fully on. Thank you guys for your info you are very helpful.
 
Originally Posted By: Billsaukalright I tried a few more times and finally got the gas block to slip fully on. Thank you guys for your info you are very helpful.

Glad to help another Golden Gopher.

Greg
 
Not exactly a scientific journal but from Wikipedia:

'The acoustic and thermal properties of graphite are highly anisotropic, since phonons propagate quickly along the tightly-bound planes, but are slower to travel from one plane to another.

Graphite is an electric conductor, consequently, useful in such applications as arc lamp electrodes. It can conduct electricity due to the vast electron delocalization within the carbon layers (a phenomenon called aromaticity). These valence electrons are free to move, so are able to conduct electricity. However, the electricity is primarily conducted within the plane of the layers. The conductive properties of powdered graphite[13] allows its use as pressure sensor in carbon microphones.

Graphite and graphite powder are valued in industrial applications for their self-lubricating and dry lubricating properties. There is a common belief that graphite's lubricating properties are solely due to the loose interlamellar coupling between sheets in the structure.[14] However, it has been shown that in a vacuum environment (such as in technologies for use in space), graphite is a very poor lubricant.[citation needed] This observation led to the hypothesis that the lubrication is due to the presence of fluids between the layers, such as air and water, which are naturally adsorbed from the environment. This hypothesis has been refuted by studies showing that air and water are not absorbed.[15] Recent studies suggest that an effect called superlubricity can also account for graphite's lubricating properties. The use of graphite is limited by its tendency to facilitate pitting corrosion in some stainless steel,[16][17] and to promote galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals (due to its electrical conductivity). It is also corrosive to aluminium in the presence of moisture. For this reason, the US Air Force banned its use as a lubricant in aluminium aircraft,[18] and discouraged its use in aluminium-containing automatic weapons.[19] Even graphite pencil marks on aluminium parts may facilitate corrosion.[20] Another high-temperature lubricant, hexagonal boron nitride, has the same molecular structure as graphite. It is sometimes called white graphite, due to its similar properties.'

And I think the armorers TM for the AR calls for 'moly grease' as a lube for the barrel nut. MoS2 is a fairly stable compound and not likely to make sulphuric acid easily. But it is easy to overthink the simple stuff-in the grand scheme of things most any decent lube will probably work in a joint that will probably never be taken down.
 
Aeroshell 33ms contains no graphite and meets all the mil-spec requirements. Its not cheap, but if you want to really get technical and use the proper grease that is what you want.
 
If you want a small amount of the Aeroshell 33MS mil spec grease you can buy some from Umbrella Corp HERE for $3

ETA: nevermind it's out of stock


I just used some moly grease for the auto parts store
 
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