Most Common Cause For A Scope Losing Its Zero ??

Wedgy

New member
I have a Savage Predator .243 that I bought used with a Bushnell 5-15 x 40mm sitting on top. Shoots nickle size groups at 100 yards when fed its favorite rounds. The scope will track the box and go back to zero. Now the problem; it has come out of zero 3 times now. It rides in the trunk in a soft case and takes a little bumping around but nothing like dropping it. Seeing how I didn't really like the scope(the 5x is a litle too much zoom for me in the woods), I decided to get a new tube and mount it right.
When I tore the old one down I found that the screw holes in the receiver had slight rise around them and that the two piece bases would rest on the high spots around the screw holes instead of sitting flush on the receiver surface. They would appear to be tight but I could slip a feeler gauge under parts of them. Simply counter sinking the bottom of the bases or filing off the material on the receiver would cure this.
scopeguns097_zps85fef53a.jpg
There was also a lot of paint material, actually it's the camo dip/hydro dipping that came off the baes and stuck to the clamps. And of course the ring marks are not even on the scope body so there is a little torking and tension in the mount.
scopeguns095_zps56fd7be3.jpg

I went with the Bushnell Elite 6500 2.5-15 x 50mm, a one piece base, and Burris Xtreme Tactical rings(30mm tube). I prefer the 1 piece base just because in my mind there is less to move around. Probably more 2 piece out there but I have my reasons and besides...it's my gun.
I counter sink the underside of the base and it goes on flush with no rocking or bending, full contact on all surface with the receiver, then Loktite, screw, tork. I bought lapping bars a while back from Ebay for $20 and you can see how the bases needed it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scope-lapping-ba...=item337ee260fc
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The rear lower base
scopeguns083_zpsb9305309.jpg

The front lower was really leaned forward so the black towards the front is the remaining paint left, the bar and compound has ground thru the paint and metal at the rear.
scopeguns082_zps6777eb7d.jpg

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Level and settle the tops on and it sits so low I can barely get the front cap on it. I can hardly wait to shoot it !!

So there you have my limited knowledge of some of the things that can cause a scope to lose its zero. It still could be the internals of the old scope, or my driving. What are some of the issues you have experienced ?? Feel free to add as much advice as I'm sure I will be doing another soon enough.


That was my home made camo on the Burris rings. I bake them in the toaster oven for a little to get the paint hard & dry. I may try the Millet rings next time, they look close to the Burris but are about half the price.

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/2-MIDT00715
 
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If you do it yourself, you can check every step of the process and fix it. I can't see how anybody would let some guy at a retail store mount their scope for them. No thanks! I want to make sure the bases sit flat, the base screws/holes are degreased and lock tighted, the rings are aligned, the scope is level and eye relief set for my preference, etc. Pretty easy to do yourself and pretty much garuntees you will never ever have a ring/base problem.
 
To answer the question, the most common reason for a scope to loose it's zero is because the scope is cheap. Do your research, buy good scopes.
 
Originally Posted By: DiRTY DOGTo answer the question, the most common reason for a scope to loose it's zero is because the scope is cheap. Do your research, buy good scopes.

That has been my experience over the years.
The only thing that changes my zero nowadays is DA.
 


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