Muzzle brake question

JJFBANDIT

JJFBANDIT

New member
What is the best route to go on muzzle brakes? I have a Ruger MKII in 300WSM with a stainless 24" 1:10 lightweight barrel that bucks like a rodeo bronco at the range. Load development has reached its potential, producing just under 1" groups. I would like to have a muzzle brake put on this rifle so that the recoil might become a little more manageable, and the groups would definitely not be hurt. Any suggestions?

-BANDIT
 
Have you tried putting a nice recoil pad on it? Although muzzle brakes are very nice on the shoulder they blow anyones eardrums including yours if no hearing protection is worn. I've shot a few guns with muzzle brakes and they are really pleasant to shoot but how many guns carry ear protection when hunting? I'd try a nice recoil pad first.
 
My suggestion to you would be to get the latest copy of VARMINT HUNTER MAGAZINE, there is an excellent article by a member/gunsmith that is very informative. One thing that manufacturers do not tell you is that the noise level is ear shattering. You can reach them at, www.varminthunter.org
 
The sound levelvaries radically from brake to brake, the LOUDEST I ever heard was the BOSS system.

And you should be wearing hearing protector/enhancers when you hunt anyway, if yor are gonna shoot that is. LOL
Carl
 
the Holland QD brakes are loud but the oval holes in them seem to be easier on the ears than the other brakes I've shot, they don't have the sharp piercing crack of the vais and such with the round holes in them. Magnaporting are the loudest I ever tried, downright horrible!
RR
 
I love the muzzle brake on my .270. It made it a pleasure to shoot and got rid of my flinch. My dad bought me the rifle for Christmas when I was 16, 32 years ago, and I couldn't hit jack with it for years. Finally got a good recoil pad and a muzzle brake and it is a real shooter now or maybe I am a shooter now with it? I don't think I would own a hard kicking gun without one. I always wear ear protection except when hunting and it doesn't seem to bother me much for one shot.
 
I can clear the firing range out with my 500 Smith& Wesson because it is so loud but it does make it easier to shoot with the brake.

I have a 204 with a Vais brake and it makes my teeth hurt. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
 
I use brakes on my 7mm mag and 338 mag. I reload for and tinker with both, and a muzzle brake was the only way to fine tune them. When I hunt I use a Quad hearing muffs, lets you hear a snake crawling threw the grass, but blocks out the blast. If you get a brake make sure it comes with a cap to screw on the muzzle if you have to remove the brake for hunting.
Jim
 
I remember the first time I shot my ruger 77 338 wm all weather (the extra nasty old style stock) after I had it ported. I was in a cover range and there were a couple of guys plinking with 22 and 223. Well I touch off and it knocks the dust off of the rafters and everybody is looking at me with this Holy $h!t sort of expresssion. Now it is probably a factor of the brake and loosing about 1.5 - 2 inches of barrel. Mine was made by reaming the end of the existing barrel basically doing a deep crown and drilling the holes. It made a huge difference in the shoot ability of the gun.

I cannot understate how loud it can be. One day I am doing a quick pre-season check, I was at a buddies farm I set up a target and took a shot. I was about 5 feet to the side of my car the blast echoed off the car and my whole left side was numb. I do try to isolate myself when at the range the blast is very disterbing for the uys next to me.

But if I did it again I would get a removable one, use it at the range and pull it off for hunting.
 
I do have a recoil pad on the gun, but its not the rearward force of the gun that bothers me, it bucks, straight up in the air and I just dont like it. (who really wants the scope hitting them on each shot?) I hadnt thought of the increased noise, which would be a downside; I just dont know how big of a downside until I shoot with one I suppose. Big question is: Is the brake worth it or not?

-BANDIT
 
Another option is to get one that screws of and can be replaced with a thread protecting cap for when your hunting. Remember that as a general rule recoil isn't very noticable when your out in the field shooting at game.


Richard
 
Just keep in mind that every single shot fired without hearing protection will permanently rob a percentage of your hearing. Even a 22LR destroys a bit of your hearing with every unprotected shot.

Shooting a brake without protection will probably cost you between 2 and 20% of your hearing for one shot.

With the electronic muffs available today there is no reason to destroy your hearing.

Jack
 
Then it sounds like I would want a removable brake, especially since as hntnnut stated, "recoil isn't very noticable in the field" and I only want the benefit of a brake for load developments.

Thanks for all of your replies. That being said, what is the best removable brake?

-BANDIT
 
Quote:
If you get a brake make sure it comes with a cap to screw on the muzzle if you have to remove the brake for hunting.



But be sure to zero without the brake before hunting without it; your zero will be way different with and without the brake.

+1 on the earmuffs while hunting whether using a brake or not. Hearing loss is not reversable and the quad electronic muffs actually improve your hearing in the field while still blocking damaging sounds.

Regards,
hm
 
I just picked up my 6.5-284 which the smith installed a Vals brake/threaded cap=$175 all ss with a removal bar. Most smiths can get the brakes, you have to order the caps at that time. Or go to Brownells.
Jim
 
Jim n Iowa, have you shot your 6.5- 284 with the brake on it? I have a cooper 6.5- 284 and was thinking of a brake so that I might be able to see the bullet hit. spike
 
I agree with hm1996 I had a 338 win once and when I took the brake off it would shoot 6" low and 8" to the left was very surprised /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused1.gif
 
This one advertises zero muzzle rise, zero noise increase, and a 35-45% recoil reduction. That's not a lot of recoil reduction compared to most brakes, so maybe the muzzle rise and noise claims are true? Zero muzzle rise with zero noise increase would be very interesting.

Give it a try and tell us how it works.

There is another one I've seen recently that had the holes on the muzzle end of the brake (not sure how that would work) that would also not push the noise back to the shooter. I can't find that one after a quick look. Anybody know anything about that one?
 
Spike
I just finished the time consuming break-in. I am going to load some 142's and sight it in with the brake on, and compare to the brake off. many 6.5 shooter's have said you will see the hits. I will probably use the brake for now, but would like to shoot f-class which does not allow a brake, some where down the road. Will let you know how the brake works. The Smith that put the gun together is Gordy Gritters whose rifle's compete favorably at the Varmint Master's shoot, and he recommends a brake for varmint shooting.
Jim
 
Jim n Iowa, when I got my rifle the test target was shot with re 22 powder. I started with re 22 and sierra 140sbt and the recoil was noticeable. I switched to imr4831, getting 2800fps with 140 sierra and found the recoil much less. the imr gave a 1" three shot group at 300yds. I'm hopping to increase the imr for a little more velocity but don't want to lose accuracy. spike
 


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