pac-nor barrels and gunsmithing?

rimfirematt

rimfirematt

New member
was wondering if anyone had dealings with pac-nor concerning theyre barrels and action work. They seem pretty competitively priced. Almost too low.
 
I had a custom tac 20 upper made using a Pac-Nor barrel. Their recomended gun smith (at the time. dont know if it still is) was John Noveske (*sp).
He does awesome work and the barrel shot great with little fouling. www.jnrifleworks.com
 
I have had 5 rifles re-barreled with PAcNor barrels, and all are excellent. I had PacNor themselves do the action work and the barrel jobs.

Believe me, you get what you pay for and more. All of the barrels shoot very well and are extremely easy to maintain and clean.
All of the barrels I have purchased are stainless Super Match Grade. From my experience, I will use them again when the time comes. - BCB
 
I had them true,rebarrel, and install a holland lug on a Rem. 700 with a SM SS barrel in a 25-284.
The barrel is super smooth. It cleans like a breeze and fouls very little. I too was concerned how far they go with the truing process for the prices they charge. All I can say is my gun shoots great regardless what they did and I'd use them again without a thought.
 
I guess I must have one of the rare ones that fouls like crazy. Was shooting moly for a while, still copper-fouled pretty well, then got away from the moly to plain copper bullets, only to find that it builds up tremendous fouling (.22-250 AI, with about 3600-3500 fps loads). Shoots well though.
 
Pete, you may have layers of copper build up in the barrel that you think is clean. I would have the barrel checked with a bore scope to make sure and I would stay away from moly.
 
I'll echo what everyone else is saying. Had the company owner hand deliver my custom 19-223. He was on his way deer hunting ??Y+?lPmp by. Could have talked with the guy for hours but knew he wanted to be somewhere other than my office. Great guy, very knowledgeable and honest. My gun shoots like a dream, cleans easily and doesn't foul rapidly. What more could you ask for.
 
SteveM, I got the barrel new, did a break in, and I clean with Sweet's 7.62 and something called Extreme Copper Melt. Occasionally I'll run some JB paste through it, but usually use the chemical stuff until there's no more blue on the patch. The throat's getting burned away (about ready for a setback) so that may have something to do with the fouling I'm getting now, but it was always bad from the start.
 
Colorado Pete,
If you do your own gunsmithing, and have no paying work now, setting it back is OK. May be good for another 100 rounds. If you are going to pay somebody to do it, forget it.

Been there, done that, many times. If you look at the barrel with a borescope, you can easily see that to get rid of much damage you would have to set the barrel back 6-10". That is not practical for several reasons:
Too much loss of length.
Unless it is a straight bull barrel, not enough diameter left for the new chamber.

Jack
 
Hmmm. Jack, another fellow told me something similar recently. I had the barrel cylinder made about an extra inch longer so as to allow about an inch of setback, hoping that this would be enough to cut a reasonably smooth new throat. Sure would hate to chuck the barrel, it's only about 4 years old, maybe 2000-2500 rounds through it, but with a .22-250 AI that's probably all I could expect.

Ah well, it still shoots under 1 moa and will kill p-dogs quite nicely out to 400+, so I guess I'll try to squeeze another season out of it. Not sure what to do next. There is a .22-250 AI wildcat necked up to 6mm, may go that way next - I like the long range potential of that! And I could use my brass over again.
 
Colorado Pete

I have never retired a barrel because the accuracy fell off. Even barrels with alligator hide half way down the tube are usually still accurate. My fast twist barrels are retired when bullet blow-ups start. My slow twist barrels are retired when they take too long to settle down after cleaning. I don't mind having to fire a few fouling shots, but when it takes 15-20 to settle down, forget it!

Your fouling is probably caused by alligator hide.(Alligator hide is a good description of what the interior of a large capacity case barrel looks like after a while. The heat causes it to crack in an alligator hide pattern.) My fast twist 22-250AI is showing a fair amount after 300 rounds. I am hoping to get to 600 before it starts blowing up bullets. Hoping for 600 but if I have to toss it at 500, it will not surprise me.

Jack
 
Heck Jack I got mine built in April '00 and am still running it, figure I must have at least 2000 rounds through it given the load testing and p-d hunting it's done. I guess I should be happy it's still usable. I did notice what I thought might be a couple of blow-ups a few years back (along with shooting rings around prairie dogs)but by seating out bullets another .025" and backing off half a grain of powder was able to get back to about 3/4" at 100 yards. She's still got another season in her I think.
 
Steve,
With the fast twist barrels, bullet blow up is the limiting factor in barrel life. With larger cases the bore actually burns. It causes typically what is called and looks like "alligator hide." That roughness damages the bullet jacket and at the very high rpm the bullets are turning out of a fast twist barrel, the damaged jacket is unable to hold the bullet together. Centrifugal force literally explodes the bullet. A dirty or hot barrel is more likely to experience blow ups.

Jack
 


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