Has anyone used this material to build a reload bench top?? IMO it is quite strong but doesn't hold screws well.. But for a bench top nothing will be screwed down to it but bolted instead.. The surface is smooth to be painted or I thought about peel and stick floor tiles to cover the top.. Thanks. Dan
Partcle board for bench top
- Thread starter dan158
- Start date
Dont think I'd use particle board - it cracks from flexing too easily. Then it comes apart. Used solid core doors work great. Or damaged or used counter tops from suppliers or kitchen cabinet guys when they tear one out and build new. I have some desk tops from a computer lab that are super heavy duty too.
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4x4 legs,2x6 frame,and 3/4 “ plywood.i just built a new bench for inside the house been using the same for years in the garage that’s built the same way.The bench is one of the most important but overlooked piece of equipment in your reloading process don’t let it be the weak link .
3/4" plywood "box" with glued & screwed 2 x 4 frame is plenty solid (circa 1983). The corner of smaller, dark grey bench visible to the right is my first, similarly constructed bench, built in 1952 and is still a solid base for my single stage press. ETA: The smaller bench is only 2' x 2' & was attached to wall stud due to light weight. Larger bench is free standing.
Don't think particle board would hold up.
Regards,
hm
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Plant.One
Well-known member
you'd have to invest in relatively thick stuff, support it well and/or laminate several layers together for any significant span. a typical kitchen counter-top is often just that - laminated particle board with Formica glued on top of it to seal it up.
short of actually doing a formica surface, i would recommend painting it more so than peel and stick tile. Roll on a nice hard flat white paint or if you really want durable use that low odor garage floor paint. the grey stuff you can sprinkle the colored chips into. that stuff is tougher than nails.
short of actually doing a formica surface, i would recommend painting it more so than peel and stick tile. Roll on a nice hard flat white paint or if you really want durable use that low odor garage floor paint. the grey stuff you can sprinkle the colored chips into. that stuff is tougher than nails.
polyurethane should seal it up nicely.
I'm in the preformed counter top with Formica. My benches have been moved all over the place and still going strong. The bases I built are pretty heavy and they help keep it all together when I'm working hard stuff. They wipe down easily and the light color makes the surface quite user friendly.
Greg
Greg
Ghilliedup2
New member
Did you pre-drill it first? If not screws won't hold very well
I used 3/4" plywood and if I were to do it again I'd use 2 pieces of 1/2" MDF board as it's flatter smoother
I used 3/4" plywood and if I were to do it again I'd use 2 pieces of 1/2" MDF board as it's flatter smoother
Ghilliedup2
New member
Also depending on the type of particle board you will need to match the screw thread type. A course thread drywall screw should do the job as long and you pre-drill it and support it will real lumber, like a 2x4 every 16-24 inches depending on how thick your particle board is( I'd want a min 1" thick even if you have to double up) you can't make it too strong! Good luck
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Thank you all.. We got a larger house and I built a room off a corner of the basement.. I find the old desk seems out of place and a lot of wasted room.. I seen the 3/4 particle board for 20$ a 4x8 sheet at lowes and thought a few of them could get me a nice 1.5 thick(doubled up) 2ft deep by 12' and L shape it another 6 ft up the other wall by 2.. Dan
I would NEVER use particle board for any use where it would get stress. Particularly not mounting a press.
For mine I used 3/4" plywood and reinforced the press with an additional 3/4" board bolted underneath to spread the stress. It works well. Today I'd probably just do the 2X 3/4" top laminated and be done with it.
For mine I used 3/4" plywood and reinforced the press with an additional 3/4" board bolted underneath to spread the stress. It works well. Today I'd probably just do the 2X 3/4" top laminated and be done with it.
Chris623
New member
Dan,
I'm a retired professional furniture builder. But when it came to building work benches in my shop, the top of the bench was always a solid core door. They just work! Put screws in'em, bolts through'em, paint'em any way you want, or just stain them and put a clear finish on them. You'll save yourself a lot of grief if you just go buy one and build a good base for it.
I'm a retired professional furniture builder. But when it came to building work benches in my shop, the top of the bench was always a solid core door. They just work! Put screws in'em, bolts through'em, paint'em any way you want, or just stain them and put a clear finish on them. You'll save yourself a lot of grief if you just go buy one and build a good base for it.
Originally Posted By: Chris623Dan,
I'm a retired professional furniture builder. But when it came to building work benches in my shop, the top of the bench was always a solid core door. They just work! Put screws in'em, bolts through'em, paint'em any way you want, or just stain them and put a clear finish on them. You'll save yourself a lot of grief if you just go buy one and build a good base for it.
I agree whole heartedly, have done the same but need to be careful. I found the hard way that some of the newer, cheaper doors labeled “solid core” were only filled with foam, not wood. You can sometimes find a bargin in freight damaged doors
I'm a retired professional furniture builder. But when it came to building work benches in my shop, the top of the bench was always a solid core door. They just work! Put screws in'em, bolts through'em, paint'em any way you want, or just stain them and put a clear finish on them. You'll save yourself a lot of grief if you just go buy one and build a good base for it.
I agree whole heartedly, have done the same but need to be careful. I found the hard way that some of the newer, cheaper doors labeled “solid core” were only filled with foam, not wood. You can sometimes find a bargin in freight damaged doors
I went the solid core door route, with plenty off support, especially under the presses. Understand, these are commercial 1.75" thick doors, not residential.
Plain 3/4" particle board, unsupported will break. The solid core doors are essentially particle board on steroids.......with veneer laminated to each face. I think it's the laminations that make the solid core doors work well.
I got two doors, ripped them to 30" (to get rid of lock prep) and put them end to end. 14 feet of bench, woo hoo.
Plain 3/4" particle board, unsupported will break. The solid core doors are essentially particle board on steroids.......with veneer laminated to each face. I think it's the laminations that make the solid core doors work well.
I got two doors, ripped them to 30" (to get rid of lock prep) and put them end to end. 14 feet of bench, woo hoo.
ohihunter2014
New member
I used MDF recessed into a 2x4 frame and just brad nailed it all around and its holding up great! I like the slick top to wipe it down and its plenty strong. The area that holds my press has 2-2x4 screwed together and screwed into the frame and a 1/2'' piece of oak board under the press and lag bolts going through all of it just make sure you predrill holes. I size 45-70 cases which can sometimes be a bear and no flex at all.
Lots of ways to get a stable bench top.
Hm's bench is typical of long lasting bench's that will last 200 years.
I really like heavy frames, 1.5" of plywood, glued and screwed together. Recently found just how good the Commercial doors are for heavy shooting bench tops. Habitat for humanity is a good place to start for these used commercial solid core doors, they are very, very heavy.
Old counter tops are a big plus, but they don't take the hard abuse that a 1.5" plywood top would take out in the garage.
I am still using my first reloading bench/cabinet built in 1979, 4x6 frame, 1.5" plywood top with some overhang, drawers below, and shelves above. The unit has been moved 6 times, still as solid as the day it was built...glue, screws, lag bolts.
Hm's bench is typical of long lasting bench's that will last 200 years.
I really like heavy frames, 1.5" of plywood, glued and screwed together. Recently found just how good the Commercial doors are for heavy shooting bench tops. Habitat for humanity is a good place to start for these used commercial solid core doors, they are very, very heavy.
Old counter tops are a big plus, but they don't take the hard abuse that a 1.5" plywood top would take out in the garage.
I am still using my first reloading bench/cabinet built in 1979, 4x6 frame, 1.5" plywood top with some overhang, drawers below, and shelves above. The unit has been moved 6 times, still as solid as the day it was built...glue, screws, lag bolts.