PROS -n- CONS for full length sizing and neck sizing

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Ricky Bobby

New member
This subject probably comes up often on here, but I will ask about it anyway. I am still pretty green with the whole reloading thing and I'm interested in knowing why guys choose to full length size their cases and why others choose to just neck size their cases? Are you guys that are neck sizing, doing it mainly to extend the life of your brass or is there that much better accuracy when neck sizing? I only shoot bolt actions and I don't plan on using any once-fired brass obtained from someone else, so I'm thinking I could benefit from maybe just neck sizing my cases! Would there be any advantages to sticking with full length sizing my cases? I hope you guys can steer me in the right direction, because I'm still not 100% positive on which one is best for me! All the load manuals suggest that the beginner stick with full length sizing until gaining some experience & knowledge, but I can't see where it would make my reloading anymore difficult!
 
I mainly neck size for all my bolt guns for two main reasons 1. Its quick and easy and I use no lube with the Lee collet dies 2. Your brass will last longer with minimum case trimming... I have loaded hot 17Rem loads 9 times without FL sizing although they did start to split necks and primer pockets got loose.
The accuracy can be better but not necessarily.
 
You can neck size all you want but eventually you will have to readjust your die and full length size them. If you buy the hornady head space gauge you can partial size, then you never have to touch your die again. Basically when you adjust your die to manufacture specs you push your shoulder back .020 or somewheres in there, you only need to push it back .001-.002 to make a nice smooth fit. The headspace gauge is easy to use, all you need is a good caliper. You can get the gauges at cabelas or midway which ever. So the answer to the question is Full length sizeing works the brass way more than it needs to be, the more the shoulder gets worked back and forth the weaker the brass gets.
 
Okay, so if I were to just neck size, at what point would I need to full length size them? I didn't realize they would need to eventually be full length resized anyway! Also, while I'm asking questions I want to know if it hurts much to mix and match dies? The few die sets I currently own are the RCBS FL sets that have just the full length die and the bullet seater die in them. I was wondering if I decide to add a neck sizer die to them, I was wanting to maybe try the Redding! Is that a bad idea to mix the manufactures of your dies of the same caliber?
 
I have never had trouble. You will know when you need to full length, it will be hard going into the chamber. Save yourself the hassle buy the headspace gauge unless u want to buy extra dies.
 
No, it does not hurt to mix dies at all. I use mainly Lee Collet for neck sizing and have all brands of FL and seating dies. As far as how often and when you would have to FL size it depends on several factors such as how hot your loads are and if you mind if your bolt is a little stiff to close or not. I have 3 calibers that I have never FL sized for.
 
So I'm assuming that smaller cases with hardly no shoulder to them, like the .22 Hornet(my favorite)may never have to be full length resized?
 
Originally Posted By: Ricky BobbySo I'm assuming that smaller cases with hardly no shoulder to them, like the .22 Hornet(my favorite)may never have to be full length resized?

Sorry, If the cartridge headspaces on the shoulder they will get tight sooner or later.

For most reloaders, the neck die is not a 100 percent substitute for a FL die. You really should have both FL and Neck sizers if you want to maximize your case life. There is no guaranty that neck sizing will be more accurate in your rifle, but I have seen it happen often.

Since your a bit new to reloading, I hesitate to recommend the bushing neck sizing dies. They are about double the price of the standard neck dies and require more precise setup to be worth the effort. You may also need a headspace gauge to properly adjust a bushing bump neck die. You might want to spend some time with someone that has used all types to get a feel for what you want.
 
Full length pros:
Good for resizing range brass, or if you are loading for multiple rifles in the same caliber.
Cons:
Case wear, case lubrication while reloading, Lots of unnecessary messing around if you are only loading for one rifle in that caliber.

Neck sizing pros:
Easy on cases, no lubricant necessary, potentially better accuracy (if you are just loading for the one rifle in that caliber/keep your cases separate).
Cons: wont full length resize range brass or multiple rifle brass...thats about it.
 
Basic rule of thumb...For Semi/Full auto, always FL size...For bolt and single shot, Neck size as long as the case hasn't stretched to the point that the bolt/action becomes hard to close...When they stretch to that point, the cases need to be FL sized to bring them back to operable specs..

I agree with your manual relative to getting some experience under your belt before worrying about the neck sizing factor...You may, or may not, see a difference in accuracy and the fact that the brass may wear out a little sooner is worth the experience...

If you start to find split necks, you can learn to anneal the brass.. For that reason alone, I usually only use the same 200 pieces of brass on a routine basis..So far, I generally get 6-8 loadings out of a piece of FL sized brass before annealing is needed and it softens the brass back to being easy to work with, as well as extending the life..
 
I neck size for 5 or 6 firings then I anneal and full length size, trim for length and neck size again. I've had excellent life from Remington brass with my 22-250 using this method.
 
I'm going to have to read up on the annealing process! I'm intrigued about the process, after all I am a plumber! Working with the brass cases is my favorite part of reloading, I just want to completely understand all the different aspects of resizing/reshaping brass cases. I think I should pick up on it fairly quick. At times it can be a little overwhelming when being self-taught! I sure am appreciating all the information you guys give up, it simplifies the learning process for me!
 
Originally Posted By: OldTurtleBasic rule of thumb...For Semi/Full auto, always FL size...For bolt and single shot, Neck size as long as the case hasn't stretched to the point that the bolt/action becomes hard to close...When they stretch to that point, the cases need to be FL sized to bring them back to operable specs..
.......
If you start to find split necks, you can learn to anneal the brass.. For that reason alone, I usually only use the same 200 pieces of brass on a routine basis..So far, I generally get 6-8 loadings out of a piece of FL sized brass before annealing is needed and it softens the brass back to being easy to work with, as well as extending the life..

Thats the processes I intend on following when reloading for my 243 and my 22-250. It follows right along with everything I ever read about reloading rifle casings
 
Originally Posted By: Ricky BobbyI'm going to have to read up on the annealing process! I'm intrigued about the process, after all I am a plumber! Working with the brass cases is my favorite part of reloading, I just want to completely understand all the different aspects of resizing/reshaping brass cases. I think I should pick up on it fairly quick. At times it can be a little overwhelming when being self-taught! I sure am appreciating all the information you guys give up, it simplifies the learning process for me!

Stand your casings in a LG shallow pan of water. Heat the casing from about 3/8ths of an inch below the shoulder all the way to the mouth until red hot with a propane torch... Once its red hot...knock it over into the water so it cools INSTANTLY. Thusly...annealed
 
full length sizing really works brass.

If you purchase a Bonanza/Forester neck sizer you can push back the shoulder with this inexpensive tool that will save you a lot of full length sizing.

Many times, the load that shoots the best in the rifle will be a place where after the second or third firing, the brass will need to be full length sized, the Forester/Bonanza neck sizer can be used to push the shoulder back and the bolt will close easily instead of full length sizing.

Eventually, you will have to full length size the brass to reduce the size in the web, but that usually does not happen till many firings.

I have always wanted to look into the RCBS X Sizer that full length sizes with out stretching the case.
 
Whether you FL size or neck size is determined by a lot of different parameters.

Reasons such as----heavy vs. light load, the actual cartridge you are shooting, the type of action you are shooting your cartridge in, how reliabe you actually want your ammo to be, accuracy in some instances, life of brass, and others.

Each of the reasons has a pro and a con for which sizing you use.

I find that in my ammo that I depend on 100%, I want to FL size that brass. So for my big game loads I always FL size.

Now keep in mind that I anneal my brass. So overworking the brass is normally not an issue for me. Normally my primer pockets wear out before I have alot of neck problems with my brass.

Normally for most loads I do a mix of FL and neck sizing. I normally like to bump the shoulder just a tad bit back, and leave the bottom of the case alone. I also do not use an expander ball in my dies.

As I said I normally just slightly bump the shoulder then I run my brass into a separate Sinclair sizing mandrel to size the inside of the neck. I find that by doing this I do away with most if not all of my run out problems. By slightly bumping the shoulder that aligns the neck and the shoulder with the FL die, but does not overwork the web of the case. Then by using the Sinclair sizing mandrel I get 100% neck diameter consistency, without external forces being put on the actual shoulder---thus eliminating run out problems.

So you see it is a bit more complicated than just deciding whether you want to neck size or full length size.

List all the parameters that are important for each cartridge you reload. Then decide what type sizing to do in order to achieve that goal.

The biggest problem new reloaders have with neck sizing only is bullet run out problems. They tend to get the neck out of alignment with the case. It is easy to do, so don't let that bother you. Part of that runout problem comes from not doing any additional alignment with the die and the other part comes from the expander ball putting force on an unsupported neck when pulling it back out of the case. Tom.
 
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Like I said earlier buy a headspace gauge and adjust the fl die to bump the shoulder back .002. Then you never have to touch the die your done, and you can use that gauge on all calibers and you don't have to spend all that money on neck dies .
 
Heating the necks of the cases in a pan of water to red hot and then knocking them over in the water is an excellent method to ruin your brass.

Redding makes a body bump die that will resize the case and bump the shoulder back when needed. I try to shoot for a bump of .0015-.002 when it becomes necessary. With 223 and 204, it takes several firings before bumping is needed, but my usual procedure is to bump the shoulder and anneal every 4th firing. The rest of the time, I use a Lee Collet die to neck size. With my AR, it adds and extra step to bump the shoulder with the body die and use the Collet die for the necks each time, but I still only bump the shoulder back about .0015 to .002 and it has worked well for me.
 


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