Putting a red dot sight on my WIN. 1300 12 ga.
- Thread starter Stroble
- Start date
AWS
Custom Accessory Maker & Retired PM Staff
I don't know about the saddle mount but sighting is much like a rifle, shoot it at close range and line the dot up with the pattern, there should be windage and elevation adjustments on the sight then move back to 40 yards and fine tune the adjustments. I have a Holographic red dot on my bow.
I agree with fuzzytail and personally prefer Picatinny rail drilled and tapped. It will keep the sight as low as possible. I have a Vortex Razor Red Dot and love it. Plus the VIP warranty is for LIFE.
When I put my last shotgun together several people suggested putting a full choke in the barrel, positioning myself 13yds from a pattern board, fire cheap #7 bird shot to align your sight. Make sure windage is correct and point of aim is aprox. 2in above center of pattern. Confirm/tweak at 40yds...
Here's the link to that thread, maybe there's something in there that can help.
Custom Benelli M2
When I put my last shotgun together several people suggested putting a full choke in the barrel, positioning myself 13yds from a pattern board, fire cheap #7 bird shot to align your sight. Make sure windage is correct and point of aim is aprox. 2in above center of pattern. Confirm/tweak at 40yds...
Here's the link to that thread, maybe there's something in there that can help.
Custom Benelli M2
I'm going to agree with going with a drilled and tapped rail. I have them on two of my Mossbergs. My most recent dot was a green dot by Holosun. It has a 30 MOA circle dot as an option. I mainly got it to use at night with my red spot lights, but now it's become my primary shotgun.
As far as sighting in, I use wrapping paper. It sits at the perfect height to get it zeroed. I start out at 40-45 yards, get my pattern as centered as I can, then I move closer and note what the pattern does as I get closer. I log that away in the old DOPE chart in the head and out I go.
As far as sighting in, I use wrapping paper. It sits at the perfect height to get it zeroed. I start out at 40-45 yards, get my pattern as centered as I can, then I move closer and note what the pattern does as I get closer. I log that away in the old DOPE chart in the head and out I go.
SlickerThanSnot
New member
Originally Posted By: fuzzytailBurris FF on my turkey guns. I bought 336 burris mount and had gun drilled and tapped. Best option to get FF as low as possible. Just works for me...
well, no, not really its not. the burris speed bead mount is the lowest and in my opinion the best way to go with putting a red dot on a shotgun.
well, no, not really its not. the burris speed bead mount is the lowest and in my opinion the best way to go with putting a red dot on a shotgun.
Originally Posted By: SlickerThanSnotwell, no, not really its not. the burris speed bead mount is the lowest and in my opinion the best way to go with putting a red dot on a shotgun.
You are correct. I forgot about the Speedbead.
I also considered one of these but decided to sacrifice a small difference of height in exchange for the longer focal plane.
You are correct. I forgot about the Speedbead.
I also considered one of these but decided to sacrifice a small difference of height in exchange for the longer focal plane.
GC
Well-known member
Be prepared to raise the comb of the shotgun when you mount an optic. Trying to get an instinctive sight picture on a shotgun designed to be used with a barrel mounted bead and that now has an optic bolted on top isn't always easy.
To save some shells and recoil abuse when sighting in try this method I discovered years ago along the way of fooling around with shotguns. Screw the factory flush fitting full choke in, shoot a standard trap load target shell at 13 yards. Shoot and adjust point of impact until that is dead on windage and 1" - 2" high above your aiming point. Here you can use a piece of copy paper, your pattern will be very small. Once you are windage perfect and elevation a couple inches high at 13 yards now you are ready to back up to 40 yards and put your coyote/turkey choke in and shoot the trap load again. You should be shooting on a very large backer so you can see where the center of the pattern is. Adjust that trap load at 40 yards to put the point of impact with your point of aim. Clean your barrel and choke. Finally you are ready to shoot the expensive, hard kicking coyote killer loads. Most likely there will be a slight adjustment to be made but about 80% of the hard work was done with low recoiling inexpensive shells.
To save some shells and recoil abuse when sighting in try this method I discovered years ago along the way of fooling around with shotguns. Screw the factory flush fitting full choke in, shoot a standard trap load target shell at 13 yards. Shoot and adjust point of impact until that is dead on windage and 1" - 2" high above your aiming point. Here you can use a piece of copy paper, your pattern will be very small. Once you are windage perfect and elevation a couple inches high at 13 yards now you are ready to back up to 40 yards and put your coyote/turkey choke in and shoot the trap load again. You should be shooting on a very large backer so you can see where the center of the pattern is. Adjust that trap load at 40 yards to put the point of impact with your point of aim. Clean your barrel and choke. Finally you are ready to shoot the expensive, hard kicking coyote killer loads. Most likely there will be a slight adjustment to be made but about 80% of the hard work was done with low recoiling inexpensive shells.