I have been dealing with a Bering Optics Super Hogster losing zero for a year now. I spoke with a gentleman named Boris today that said the electronics in his scopes were not capable of being the issue for the scope losing zero. He told me that they would replace the mount and that should solve the issue. That would be wonderful if true. My question is he correct in saying the electronics could not be the issue. This is the second time I have sent the scope back for not retaining zero. The first time they sent it back and said that they found the objective lens was loose. I mounted it and tested it for two months and documented my tests and they showed failure to retain zero, not by much but the .5 inch groups this gun shoots would bounce around by as much as 2 inches week to week. I'm talking great little .75 to .5 inch groups. My testing procedure is at the oldest NRA sanctioned range in Texas and close to the same time of day and within reasonable temperature differences with meticulous handloads with temperature stable Varget powder. Boris claimed I'm the only user of one of his scopes that has had this problem.
Do you think its true that the internal electronics are not capable of being the culprit. I hope he is right and another mount will solve the issue. I used this scope with great success for about a year then gradually started to have to adjust zero week to week.
Igor, as I stated in the other thread you are not the only one that's had issues with POI shift with Bering. I personally know of 4 different members here that has had zero shift issues, its the off-season but hopefully they will chime in. I don't do Facebook but apparently there's some groups there that's had multiple reports as well. I personally owned 2 different Super Hogsters and 1 Super Yoter and didn't notice any drastic changes in POI. DU (Owen) runs a Super Yoter here and kills lots of coyotes and I think he's had good luck out of his. IMO its hit and miss with Bering.
There's also been more and more reports that they are getting harder and harder to get ahold of when a customer does need something. I would guess its because of their growth and combined issues of having a lot more units sold. I definitely would be leary of their new LRF units coming out. They are way behind the rest of the market being last at bringing a working LRF unit out and
I definitely wouldn't want to be first in line to try one.
I hate to say it but if it was me I'd have Bering warranty it and it would be on down the road.
Give me a few tips on how to get them to warranty it please. I figured my only option was to send it in and if THEY deemed it irepairable then they would warranty it. At this time they say it is operable. Trust me I would love to be shed of it.
Igor whom was your dealer?? Not sure who you bought it from but maybe have your dealer get involved??
If it was mine and it had a known issue I would do my best to provide detailed information with pictures of groups and dates to build proof on your point. You might also PM Varminter223 and see what he did, I think he actually got a refund for his super Yoter that kept shifting.
You might also consider going to the Bering Optics Facebook page and make some waves there to see if that motivates them to fix it.
I've made a few waves on facebook and it looks like they have banned me after I had too many supporters. My dealer Santa Claus Optics in Santa Claus Indiana said on the phone it wasnt his problem and to send Bering an email. And I have documented the POI change with good pics and dates and sent them to Bering with little effect I imagine. I will PM Varminteer 223. A representative named Boris said they were going to change the base and send it back to me. Ive got the rounds loaded up and will be doing more testing soon I figure.
Thank you for your concern.
That doesn't surprise me at all coming from Travis, the owner of Santa Claus Optics. I actually know him, lives about 45 minutes from me and I definitely don't recommend him at all. He's a weasel (putting it nicely)that rats out other dealers for selling below MAP trying to get their dealership pulled so he has no local competition and turns around and does the exact same thing himself. Don't look for any help from him!
Good luck trying to get it resolved, hopefully Bering will make it right.
Igor, I believe Boris is the owner of Bering. It is possible that it is your mount, but Boris can't possibly believe that it is impossible for the electronics to not be at fault. Certainly, it is possible on any given scope from any given company. I've had very good service from my Super Yoter and no POI shifts since I got the LaRue mount set correctly and got the rifle and suppressor clean. That was all in the first two weeks of having the scope almost 2 years ago now. I did send it in for repair of the time/date not working as it should. They fixed it and sent it back. It worked about 2 months and as before it stopped keeping date/time after the scope is turned off. Not really that big an issue since I can set it before I begin a hunt.
I would be very disappointed in the dealer's response and not someone I would do business with again.
After thinking about it I suppose Boris could have meant after all of "his" electronic testing there couldn't be an issue with the electronics. He does have a pretty good accent.
My super Yoter seems to have trouble with the date and time staying current as well. I just change it before I go hunting. Problem is I’m not sure it’s an issue as I bought the battery extender and use the rechargeable 3.7v batteries in it and I’m always taking the batteries out of it between hunts it seems. Anyway, I just make sure date and time are correct before I head out to hunt. My SY50 was bought in March of this year so it’s like new. I have the Larue mount and I’ve had no noticeable zero shifting issues thus far. It’s actually worked really well for me so far. Seems like after I buy something I read 20 ppl who are having trouble. God I hate that!
According to what I was told there is some type of charging circuit that is supposed to keep some internal battery charged to run time and date even when the scope is turned off and without batteries, but it doesn't seem to work very well. It does keep perfect time once the time is set as long as the scope stays turned on.
The weak link in most digital scopes, the cross bolt mounting system. If the bolt is aluminum the threads are easily stretched and once stretched will not maintain torque.
I received a new scope from Bering Optics to replace the malfunctioning unit. I appreciate that very much. But the new scope has an issue. Only way you can turn it off is to remove the batteries or in my case disconnect it from the battery pack. When you go thru the shut down routine the screen goes black but you can still hear it nuc occasionally. When I go to turn it on I plug in the battery pack and without touching the power button it activates. So far it has retained zero for a week so I will probably just shine that defect on for the time being.
Originally Posted By: spotstalkshootThe weak link in most digital scopes, the cross bolt mounting system. If the bolt is aluminum the threads are easily stretched and once stretched will not maintain torque.
That makes no sense to me whatsoever...Nobody uses an Aluminum Bolt anyways.
The issue is definitely related to the internals moving within the scope's housing or software related as to where Aim point is calculated and/or displayed..
I've read Pulsar. had these issues with some of the older Trails..The difference is that Pulsar acknowledged it and resolved the issues with their customers rather than denying it.
Mine and several close friends experience with Pulsar Trails was never resolved satisfactorily I'm sorry to say. Last unit they sent me had a scratch on the middle of the lens that wasnt there when I sent it in. And it still didn't hold zero. I am very happy to report that Bering Optics has finally sent me a replacement Super Hogster that has held zero for 6 weeks of testing. I'm unhappy to report the new units on/off buttons/procedure does not work. Have to pull batteries or in my case disconnect battery pack to shut it off. Go figure.
