redding 3 die sets

sandy hicks

New member
I made the comment that I buy the redding 3 die sets in another post. The return comment was that I could throw away the neck die and have 2 good dies left. Have I been wasting my money? What am I missing?
 
Originally Posted By: sandy hicksI made the comment that I buy the redding 3 die sets in another post. The return comment was that I could throw away the neck die and have 2 good dies left. Have I been wasting my money? What am I missing?

Nothing. Each tool in a box has a use. Some tools and operators work well together. Others, not so much.

Greg
 
I agree with Greg. Everything has a place and a use. I personally necksize for certain cartriges, and other I only fl resize. The ones I necksize for usually need the shoulder bumped back after a few times fired. That is where I use my fl die, or a body die. But they all have a use. I don't think that you have been throwing your money away.

Some people know everything and that is the only way they think things can be done.

Nick
 
I have only ever bought the 2 die FL dies. The reason being is that Most of my guns that I reload for are for 2-3 different guns with the same chambering. So I don't neck size for any. But that is just me. I feel that the 2 die FL are what works best for me.
 
Originally Posted By: sandy hicksI made the comment that I buy the redding 3 die sets in another post. The return comment was that I could throw away the neck die and have 2 good dies left. Have I been wasting my money? What am I missing?


Throw the FL die in the trash can, and you still have two good dies.
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If dedicated to one bolt action rifle, and not shooting max loads, the neck sizer is all you need. Resistance on bolt close is the result of negative headspace. That's a good thing. Always for brass life.
 
Nothing at all wrong with 3 die sets. IME die sets outlast several rifles in that caliber. Though you may not use one or the other for a particular rifle, on the next one you might.
 
Originally Posted By: CritterAcresYou will like the versatility of the 3 die set! I have never looked back when I bought a Redding product.

Redding makes great stuff.
My issue is not with Redding stuff. I just don't see how the average hunter/shooter benefits from a neck sizing die.
Any benefits in accuracy and/or brass life are marginal at best in my experience. Why would I want to use a neck sizing die to intentionally introduce a problem in functioning and reliability so I will then have to use a FL die to correct the problem that I intentionally created with the neck sizing die?
I wore out a .260 barrel with 190 pieces of brass that was FL sized every time I loaded it. Then I sold it to a buddy for really cheap because I was putting a different caliber barrel on the gun, and I don't know how many times he has loaded it.
I wore out a 6.5x47L barrel with 180 pieces of brass that was FL sized every time I loaded it. It's exactly like brand new and almost to the 600 mark on the new barrel.
Never - not even one time in almost 5000 rounds- did any of my loads close with a tight bolt.
I shoot in rain and dirt and dust, and zero headspace ain't gonna work for me.
The FL dies do everything I need.
 
I FL size for everything I got.......... Except two cartridges. .22 hornet and 22-250. Both of those rounds tend to stretch some in my rifles. I do have the redding 3 die set for the 250 and I still FL size every few firings. I mainly use the neck die to cut down on trimming after every firing, which gets annoying when testing new loads. But when it comes down to it I think a bit of shoulder bump gives tighter groups.

BTW, for out of the box workhorse dies you can't go wrong with the redding 3 die sets!
 
Originally Posted By: fw707Originally Posted By: CritterAcresYou will like the versatility of the 3 die set! I have never looked back when I bought a Redding product.

Redding makes great stuff.
My issue is not with Redding stuff. I just don't see how the average hunter/shooter benefits from a neck sizing die.
Any benefits in accuracy and/or brass life are marginal at best in my experience. Why would I want to use a neck sizing die to intentionally introduce a problem in functioning and reliability so I will then have to use a FL die to correct the problem that I intentionally created with the neck sizing die?
I wore out a .260 barrel with 190 pieces of brass that was FL sized every time I loaded it. Then I sold it to a buddy for really cheap because I was putting a different caliber barrel on the gun, and I don't know how many times he has loaded it.
I wore out a 6.5x47L barrel with 180 pieces of brass that was FL sized every time I loaded it. It's exactly like brand new and almost to the 600 mark on the new barrel.
Never - not even one time in almost 5000 rounds- did any of my loads close with a tight bolt.
I shoot in rain and dirt and dust, and zero headspace ain't gonna work for me.
The FL dies do everything I need.



Im glad your system works well for you, and it should.

Loading 180pc of brass X3 will net you,,,,,,, 540 rounds down the pipe. That is hardly a test on system or brass. If you double that loading to X6 you would have 1080rds down and only loaded them 6 times. That's right where you would start to see case failure. Twist on a different pipe and things are all brand new, unless it's the same chamber. Now you have to re-purchase that Lapua brass. That would not be necessary if you had treated your brass right to begin with. Just saying.

It is a big world, and there is plenty of room for us all, but if you are saying that you are Full length sizing every time and getting 20+ firings from that brass with no case failure, well,,,,,,,, I just don't believe that is true. That is my experience.
 
If you can correctly set the sizer die, and know how/when to anneal, 20 firings out of quality brass is not unheard of. Especially on lower pressure rounds. To each their own, I guess.
 
If I switch two die sets, how do I set them up? Do you screw them down to the shell holder plus a quarter turn or just hand tight against the shell holder? I don"t get more than 5 or six loadings unless I neck size. I am new to small caliber rifles. Most of my loading was for 300"s until components and powder got scarce. Are you using lapua and norma brass? That many loadings will justify the cost.
 
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Originally Posted By: sandy hicksIf I switch two die sets, how do I set them up? Do you screw them down to the shell holder plus a quarter turn or just hand tight against the shell holder? I don"t get more than 5 or six loadings unless I neck size. I am new to small caliber rifles. Most of my loading was for 300"s until components and powder got scarce. Are you using lapua and norma brass? That many loadings will justify the cost.

Yes and no. Combinations of dies and shell holders will determine what is right. The best way to set them up is using a HS gage, like the Hornady, to set shoulder height on the sizer. What is perfect today is not always perfect tomorrow as the brass will change levels of elasticity as it is loaded more and more.

This is also the only good way to set up for loading for various chambers. I have 223 chambers that vary as much 0.007 in the shoulder placement. A one size fits all is not what I like. I want them tailored to the chamber. Brass life would vary considerably if I set up for the smallest chamber only.

The good thing is you can set up for minimum and then add the shims under the die to raise or lower your die without trying to chase it up and down. Those shims are the best $10.00 I ever spent to deal with the issue quickly and consistently.

Greg
 
Originally Posted By: sandy hicksIf I switch two die sets, how do I set them up? Do you screw them down to the shell holder plus a quarter turn or just hand tight against the shell holder? I don"t get more than 5 or six loadings unless I neck size. I am new to small caliber rifles. Most of my loading was for 300"s until components and powder got scarce. Are you using lapua and norma brass? That many loadings will justify the cost.

Are you shooting a Remington?

If so here's how to set up for proper bump
 
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Originally Posted By: sandy hicksSmorgasboard, Remington, Ruger, Styer, Weatherby, Browning, Kimber, TC

That trick will work for Remington, not sure about the other brands..... Reckon you'll have to buy more gadgets for them
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Originally Posted By: sandy hicksIf I switch two die sets, how do I set them up? Do you screw them down to the shell holder plus a quarter turn or just hand tight against the shell holder? I don"t get more than 5 or six loadings unless I neck size. I am new to small caliber rifles. Most of my loading was for 300"s until components and powder got scarce. Are you using lapua and norma brass? That many loadings will justify the cost.


Sandy, this only requires thought in process.

You must set the FL or "shoulder bump die" to fit your specific rifle chamber.

To do this you must first set the die to size the length of the neck. Nothing more. Chamber that sized case. If the bolt turns down easy, nothing more is needed. At the point that turning the bolt down (closed) becomes too hard, then turn your die down in small increments like 1/64, size and chamber, repeat that process until the brass just chambers to your liking. Lock the die there and roll on.

You can also buy competition she'll holders from Redding that are stepped in .002 increments to accomplish this same end. Don't complicate the issue. PM me if confused.
 


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